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A-to-Z Advice: From Afghanistan to Zanzibar

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<i> Habegger and O'Reilly are free-lance writers living in Northern California</i>

World Travel Watch is a monthly report designed to help you make informed judgments about travel throughout the world. Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you leave home. In the United States, contact the nearest passport agency office; abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy .

Asia

--India: Travel to Srinigar in Kashmir and Leh in Ladakh was disrupted by unrest in the late summer and fall, and accordingly, nearby regions had more visitors than usual. Book early if you are planning trips to Dharamsala, Manali, Simla or Rajasthan, because flights and hotels often are booked weeks in advance. The airport departure tax has been raised to 300 rupees, about $18 U.S.

--Nepal: Two regions that have been closed to travelers for generations were recently opened to trekkers booking with legitimate trekking companies. Parts of Dolpo in western Nepal, which was made famous by Peter Mathieson’s award-winning book “The Snow Leopard,” are now open. Treks from Pokhara to Jumla via scenic Phoksumdo Lake take 30 to 35 days. The Crystal Monastery at Shey and some other areas in northern and eastern Dolpo remain closed. In eastern Nepal the area around Kanchenjunga (the world’s third-highest peak) is now open.

--Pakistan: Demonstrations and rallies often occur on short notice, and sometimes lead to unrest and violence; in general, it’s best to avoid them. Follow the local newspapers or check with U.S. consulates to learn where and when such gatherings will occur.

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Travelers to rural areas of Baluchistan province, especially to districts near Afghanistan, should inform the province’s home secretary before going. Travel outside Quetta should be done in groups and only during daylight hours. Travel to rural areas of Sindh province should also be restricted to daylight hours, and avoided altogether on the west bank of the Indus River in Dadu and Larkana districts because of the high incidence of highway robbery. The cities of Karachi and Hyderabad regularly experience ethnic violence that sometimes results in curfews but otherwise doesn’t normally affect travelers. Keep informed and exercise caution.

--Sri Lanka: Political violence continues unpredictably throughout the country, and the situation remains volatile. Unnecessary travel should be deferred. There have been recent threats against Indian airlines and Indian-owned establishments. Exercise caution.

--Tibet: Travel restrictions continue to relax after last spring’s unrest. Climbing expeditions, which had been prevented from taking place in the fall, are being permitted. The sacred Mt. Kailas region in western Tibet has been reopened, but be sure to book with an established adventure travel company that can provide reliable drivers. Smaller companies and individuals have had delays and other problems with their drivers in this remote area.

Africa

--Namibia: Early assembly meetings indicate that the government expected to be established later this year will be based on democratic principles, a somewhat surprising development in light of SWAPO’s (the dominant party) 20 years of espousing Marxism.

--Sudan: The law requires travelers to register with police within three days of arrival and to obtain police permission before moving to another location. An 11 p.m.-to-4:30 a.m. curfew is in effect in Khartoum and is strictly enforced. Because of continuing hostilities, travel to the south is restricted and travelers’ safety cannot be guaranteed. Exercise caution in western Sudan because of banditry and occasional rebel activity. Check with the U.S. Embassy on arrival for current information.

--Tanzania: When one thinks of East Africa, with its endless plains covered with huge herds of game, Kenya usually comes to mind. But Tanzania, its neighbor to the south, may have the most spectacular game parks on the continent and remains considerably less crowded, offering wild Africa in its essence perhaps better than any other country.

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Currency regulations are strictly enforced, so keep all foreign exchange receipts and carry your currency declaration form when traveling. This form will be scrutinized at national park entrances and when leaving the country, and if you have more money than your forms indicate, it may be confiscated.

When traveling to Zanzibar, the spice island off the coast near Dar Es Salaam, you must go through immigration formalities even though it is part of Tanzania, showing passport, health certificate and currency papers to enter.

There is an active black market throughout the country, but it should be avoided because of severe penalties if caught by authorities, the risks of being swindled or worse. Street crime is high in urban areas, so exercise caution. If arrested for any reason, make every effort to contact U.S. consular officers, because authorities have been slow to notify them.

Travelers carrying evidence of past or future travel to South Africa may be denied entry to Tanzania. Contact any Tanzanian embassy before you go to obtain a “referred visa” if you have South African stamps in your passport or can’t avoid traveling to both countries on the same trip.

Middle East

--Yemen Arab Republic (North Yemen): Travel to certain parts of the country requires permission from the Yemen General Tourism Corp., and proper papers must be obtained before leaving the capital city of Sanaa. Much of the country is at high altitude (Sanaa’s elevation is 7,200 feet), and medical facilities do not meet Western standards, so consult your doctor before traveling here. Sporadic disputes in remote areas between tribes and government authorities sometimes close roads and reduce access for travelers. There have been periodic seizures of vehicles belonging to foreign companies in the north and east, and incidents in which tourists traveling off main roads have been detained by tribesmen. Most foreigners, however, travel in the country without incident.

Europe

--Eastern Europe: The political changes in East Bloc countries in recent months will undoubtedly expand travel and tourism to places such as East Germany, Czechoslovakia, Poland and Hungary, but it may take time for these countries to get their facilities running smoothly. Consider going with an experienced travel company.

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South America

--Bolivia: A state of siege that allows police to arrest and hold people for 48 hours without charge or judicial order is in effect until Feb. 15, the result of unsuccessful talks between the government and striking teachers.

--Peru: A state of emergency that is tantamount to martial law is in effect in Lima and the nearby port of Callao as a result of violence surrounding last month’s municipal elections. Exercise caution, and carry your passport at all times.

Caribbean/Central America

--El Salvador: Due to civil war, avoid travel here at this time.

--Jamaica: The Jamaican dollar was recently devalued about 13% in relation to the U.S. dollar, making the country a better bargain for travelers.

Southeast Asia

--Philippines: Talks on the future of U.S. military bases are scheduled to resume this month, and demonstrations protesting undue American influence are likely in Manila. Such demonstrations, however, do not usually affect travel here. Filipinos might take issue with official U.S. policy, but on a personal level are fond of Americans.

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