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See Glendale From Brand Trail

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<i> McKinney is an author of hiking books and a regular contributor to The Times</i>

“Have you been to Glendale?”

This was the question posed in full-page advertisements every Sunday in Los Angeles newspapers during the early years of this century. The man placing these ads was civic booster/real estate tycoon Leslie C. Brand, often referred to as “the Father of Glendale.”

Born in St. Louis, Brand moved to the Southland in 1898 and did quite well in the insurance business, becoming president of Guarantee Title & Trust Co. of Los Angeles. By 1902, he owned 1,000 acres in the Verdugo Mountains.

At the base of the mountains Brand built El Mirador, a 5,000-square-foot mansion. Brand had visited the East Indian Pavilion built for the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago and was so impressed by the architecture that he decided to have something similar designed for himself.

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El Mirador, with its elegant white exterior, horseshoe arches and bulbous domes, is a unique example of Saracenic architecture--a mixture of Spanish, Moorish and Indian styles.

Brand died in 1925, his widow in 1945, after which, by the terms of his will, Brand’s property was deeded to the city of Glendale for use as a park. El Mirador is now Brand Library.

Brand Park, shaped a little bit like Italy, preserves a portion of the surprisingly rugged Verdugo Mountains, which rise above the southeast end of the San Fernando Valley. Although the 13-mile-long range is surrounded by millions of people and four freeways, few hikers have discovered it.

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Glendale, located at the base of the mountains, usually doesn’t consider itself part of the San Fernando Valley, but its geographical position in the southeast end of the valley is apparent from the crest of the Verdugos.

Brand Trail is a fire road that offers a moderately steep ascent from El Mirador, through Brand Park to the ridgeline of the Verdugos. Fine valley views are yours from an overlook, where a strategically placed bench offers a rest for tired hikers. From Verdugo Overlook, an intrepid walker can easily extend the hike by joining one of several fire roads that travel the rooftop of the Verdugos.

Be warned that one of these fire roads is used during weekdays by garbage trucks and that one of the less pleasant sights along Brand Trail is an active landfill.

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Directions to trailhead: From the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Glendale, exit on Western Avenue and head northeast on the palm-lined avenue 1 1/2 miles to Brand Library.

The Hike: Near the parking area is an ivy-covered slope where abandoned Brand Nature Trail awaits rejuvenation. You’ll take the asphalt road to the left of the library that leads past the “Doctor’s House,” an 1880s Victorian home in the Queen Anne style that was once occupied by four doctors. Citizens saved this historical treasure from the wrecking ball and moved it to its present site.

A bit past a pipe gate that closes the road to vehicle traffic you’ll encounter Canary Island pines, palm trees and other tropical vegetation gone wild.

These trees and various tropical shrubs are what’s left of Brand’s estate grounds, once a fairyland of waterfalls, fountains and exotic flora.

A half-dozen roads crisscross this area. Stay on the widest one. A mile from the trailhead you’ll pass a less attractive scene--a landfill.

Beyond the landfill, the road, now dirt, returns to a more natural setting. You pass a sycamore-lined canyon and reach a signed junction. Keep left on “Brand” and don’t stray onto “Brand Lat.”

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Those parts of the hills where tilted rock outcroppings don’t predominate are covered with chaparral and coastal sage. Lemonade berry, toyon, ceanothus, sage, buckwheat, manzanita and tree tobacco are among the more common flora.

Two miles of ascent brings you to an oak tree that offers the only shade en route. Keep climbing another long mile to the overlook.

A clear-day view takes in much of the San Fernando Valley and part of the Los Angeles Basin, including downtown. You can see the southeast end of the Santa Monica Mountains, the Hollywood Hills and Griffith Park.

It sure is busy down there. Planes fly by, cars stream by on the Golden State Freeway. Surprisingly, you can even hear and see trains: The main north-south tracks of the Southern Pacific Railroad pass below.

If you would like to extend your hike, you can go left (northwest) from the overlook two miles along the ridge to 3,126-foot Mt. Verdugo, highest peak in the range. Looking north you can see the San Gabriel Mountains; looking northwest you will find the mountains of Los Padres National Forest rising above Ojai.

Brand Trail: Brand Park to Verdugo Overlook 6 1/2 miles round trip; 1,300-foot elevation gain

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MP Brand Trail JOHN SNYDER / Los Angeles Times

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