Nature Supreme in Bay of Islands

Three hours by car north of Auckland lies the town of Russell, known a century ago to sailors and whaling men as the “hellhole of the Pacific.”

The picture in 1990 is one of a pastoral city of 1,000 souls, fronting one of the myriad bays of the Bay of Islands. Russell was also the first capital of New Zealand and has some historic landmarks that represent New Zealand’s soul.

On its main street, friendly citizens constantly ask: “Isn’t it lovely?” or “Aren’t we lucky?” or “Isn’t this God’s country?” Even the most hard-bitten traveler can’t argue with them.

Fine walks lead visitors through the bush--along its rivers and seashore, carefully marked, meticulously manicured.

The Bay of Islands was discovered by Capt. Cook in 1796. Since his appearance the subsequent path of history follows the usual pattern of foreign intruders clashing with the locals, in this case the Maoris.

The appearance of missionaries was, of course, predictable, and Russell today has four churches. The town’s character is gentle and civilized, with one fine library, two small museums and several galleries selling crafts--quilts, baskets, jade and woodwork.

The Bay of Islands is a mosaic of 345 islands, most of them featuring individual beaches. From the air it resembles a vast patchwork of water--green and blue, with the most spectacular sunrises and sunsets in the Pacific Ocean.

And the climate is balmy. In December, for example, the average temperature was 82 degrees, with 80-degree water. The entire complex is a haven for yachtsmen, fishermen, campers and hikers.

The Bay of Islands is not pretentious. It has no high-rise resorts, no restaurants with nouvelle cuisine. Nature reigns supreme. New Zealand won’t let the entrepreneur sublimate it.

Buses and ferries abound. Russell, which can be done on foot, has much to offer. Christ Church, diminutive and white, the oldest church in New Zealand, is set in a cemetery and framed by jacaranda trees and bougainvillea. Still in use, it is an excellent example of Gothic design.

The Custom House on the waterfront, built in 1870, is a fine Victorian structure serving as the Police Station but with only one policeman, who lives in the station.

At the entrance of the Returned Services Assn. (the New Zealand American Legion) is a sign that states: “A neat and tidy standard of dress is required. Not acceptable: overalls, singlets, bathing attires, bare feet, denim jackets, scruffy jeans, gum boots. Non-compliance with the above will earn the displeasure of the executive. Welcome to the Russell R.S.A.”

At the Bistro, a favorite of locals (fish and chips for $4.50, six fresh Orongo oysters for $6.50), two signs are posted on the back bar. One reads: “Any person involved in disorderly behavior will be suspended three months, minimum.” The second states: “No mugs after 9:45,” meaning liters of beer.

Some hints for tourists visiting Russell:

--Because motorists use left lanes, be cautious while crossing streets.

--A takeaway is an establishment selling fast food.

--The ozone layer is thin in this part of the world, so remember to heed the daily weather report that warns of sunburn.

The nation’s national carrier, Air New Zealand, will jet you from Los Angeles to Auckland in less than 12 hours. (Flights are almost always full during the high season, so book early.)

Accommodations in Russell are clean, efficient and modestly priced by American standards, with many rooms and suites facing the bay.

Hananui Lodge features four suites (living room, bath and kitchen) and balconies that face the water. In-season rates are $87 New Zealand (about $50 U.S.) a night, double occupancy. You’ll get magnificent sunsets here and a chance to watch the endless marine activities on the bay. Write to The Strand, P.O. Box 16, Russell, Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

Duke’s Lodge also has waterfront suites and a swimming pool. Rates are about the same as the Hananui Lodge (reduced for long stays). Write to P.O. Box 52, Russell, Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

The Duke of Marlborough Hotel, oldest in Russell, has 52 rooms at $52 New Zealand a night. Overlooking the bay, its porch is a fine spot for afternoon tea. Write Box 52, Russell, Bay of Islands, New Zealand.

Arcadia Lodge is a 19th-Century homestead set in a colorful garden overlooking Matauwhi Bay. Just a five-minute walk from Russell, this hotel is a favorite with New Zealanders, with both private and shared baths. Rates are $35 to $50 N.Z. Write to Arcadia Lodge, Russell, New Zealand.

Dinners at many good restaurants cost between $10 and $12 N.Z. The Duke of Marlborough serves luncheon on its veranda (try the oysters or the pate a la Maison or Camembert Korokarera, crumbled and served with a tangy fruit sauce).

For more information on travel to New Zealand, contact the New Zealand Tourist & Publicity Office, 10960 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1530, Los Angeles 90024, or call (213) 477-8241.