Spend Some Time Exploring the Other London

Few American novelists were better known at the turn of the century than San Francisco-born Jack London (1876-1916). Yet fame did not come swiftly. Before achieving literary success London had collected more than 600 rejection slips for books, stories and articles.

The visitor can read some of those rejection notes while exploring 800-acre Jack London Historic State Park, north of San Francisco in the Sonoma Valley.

Although an inveterate world traveler, London liked the beautiful Glen Ellen countryside so much that he bought a small farm here.

At first it was 40 acres, but when such books as “Call of the Wild” and “The Sea Wolf” increased the writer’s royalties, the ranch was expanded to 1,400 acres and became London’s residence, where he continued to write and develop an interest in agriculture.

He named the farm “Beauty Ranch” and lived there with his second wife, Charmian, for the five years before his death.

Guests can trace the life of the author, adventurer and rancher by following trails through wooded, rolling hills to three buildings: a cottage where London wrote many of his later novels and stories; to the ruins of his mansion, Wolf House, which burned just before he was to move in, and to a visitor’s center and museum called House of Happy Walls.

The cottage, where London worked, is closed for restoration, but the House of Happy Walls offers a good look into London’s life.

Although he never lived there, the house contains memorabilia such as rejection slips and the first edition of London’s novel “The Valley of the Moon,” which was named after the local Indian term for the area.

The book is among other first editions on display in the house built by Charmian as a memorial to her husband. She directed that it be turned into a museum after her death and the ranch became a park in 1959.

The house also contains mementos from a 27-month voyage that he made to the South Seas with Charmian.

Among the mementos are Solomon Islands tapa cloth, grass mats, spears and carvings that serve as banister posts on the stairway. Although he never wrote in the house, London’s cottage reading room and study have been reconstructed on the second floor.

At the house you’ll discover that London wrote at least 1,000 words a day, six days a week, in longhand. Between 1900 and 1916, when he died an alcoholic, London published more than 50 books and hundreds of short stories and articles.

Much of London’s material was based on his travels. At one time he was a sailor on a seal-hunting ship to Japan. Another time in his life he joined the Klondike gold rush to Alaska. He also sailed his own boat to Australia and the South Seas.

A film that is shown to guests was taken of the author at the ranch just a few days before his death at age 40.

Wolf House, the Londons’ dream mansion, was gutted by a mysterious fire on the night before he and Charmian were planning to move in. The stark, stone ruins of the mansion are surrounded by a grove of redwoods, where chimneys still tower over the foundations of the 15,000-square-foot home that had nine fireplaces and 26 rooms.

To tour the ranch, after paying the park entrance fee of $3 per vehicle, park your car and walk to the visitor center. Wear comfortable walking shoes. Also, you can take along food for a picnic as you tour the grounds and buildings.

It is a pleasant, half-mile stroll along a woodsy trail from the House of Happy Walls to the site of Wolf House. You can follow a paved service road from the parking lot that is wheelchair accessible. On weekends, golf carts transport visitors from parking to the farm.

Rangers lead tours to London’s ranch buildings or other park sites at 10:30 a.m. on most weekends. Call (707) 938-5216 to confirm times and dates. You can buy a brochure offering a self-guided tour of the ranch at the House of Happy Walls museum, which is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

Visitors also can discover what London’s other passion was: scientific farming. Besides planting fruit trees, vegetables and field crops, he raised pigs and shire horses.

A $1.25-million drive is under way to restore the ranch structures, including the dilapidated cottage in which London wrote his last stories and novels.

If you don’t feel like exploring the park on foot, take a trail ride from the Sonoma Cattle Co. Guides lead from two to six riders to a pond and bathhouse where London relaxed with his ranch guests. Continue through the hilly wilderness to where you can get scenic views of the valley.

Weather and trail conditions permiting, rides usually begin at 9 a.m., noon and 3 p.m. on weekends. Departure times vary on weekdays. For reservations, which are required, call (707) 996-8566. One hour in the saddle costs $16, two hours $26.

Jack London State Historic Park is a few miles north of Sonoma in quiet Glen Ellen. From Los Angeles, drive north on U.S. 101 beyond San Francisco to California 37, turn left on California 121, bear left on California 116, then drive right on Arnold Drive.

On the way to the park, stop at Jack London Village, a roadside cluster of shops with a bookstore owned by Russ Kingman. He’s a Jack London authority and carries London’s articles and first editions, as well as his own books about the author.

Across from the village is the medium-price Grist Mill Inn restaurant, open for brunch on Sunday and dinner nightly except Monday. Not far away, at 13670 Arnold Drive, is the smaller and less expensive Glen Ellen Inn, where the dinner menu changes weekly. It is closed Monday and Tuesday.

Turn left on London Ranch Road to reach the state park.

Along the road you can detour to the family-run Glen Ellen Winery.

Take a self-guided tour and visit the tasting room, which is open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wine tasting also is offered at Valley of the Moon Winery on Madrone Road and Grand Cru Vineyards on Vintage Lane.

Lodgings in Glen Ellen include the Gaige House Bed & Breakfast Inn, Beltane Ranch and Glenelly Inn.

For details about accommodations and restaurants in the area, call the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau at (707) 996-1090.

Round trip from Los Angeles to Glen Ellen is 920 miles.