I can recall when Cabo San Lucas...

I can recall when Cabo San Lucas was a sleepy fishing village. A few shanties. Only one taxi (and whenever it rolled down Cabo’s unpaved road, dust rose behind it like the funnel of a tornado). In those days fishermen flew to Cabo in little single-engine airplanes (the big airlines hadn’t arrived yet). At night they’d swill beer in the cantina with its dirt floor, listening to a jukebox that blared like a banshee. An American, Bud Parr, built the first resort hotel in Cabo. Later, Mexico paved a road to the tip of Baja and the old life was doomed.

Little by little Cabo grew. Other hotels rose. But none like the new $34-million Melia Cabo Real that opened in March between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. Nearly 300 rooms, satellite TV, 24-hour room service, direct-dial telephones. (In the old days, you couldn’t even call your neighbor, simply because there were no telephones.) The new Melia Cabo Real features a swim-up bar, three restaurants, tennis, deep-sea fishing, sailing, jet skiing, riding. A golf course is next.

They used to say time stood still in Cabo. No more. Call toll-free (800) 336-3542 to reserve a room at the new Melia Cabo Real.

New York Guide: If you’ve got a crush on the Big Apple, get a copy of the “1990 I Love New York Travel Guide.” Besides Manhattan, Brooklyn, the Bronx, Queens, Staten Island, the 116-page publication spotlights other New York regions (the Catskills, Hudson Valley, the Finger Lakes, Capital-Saratoga, the Adirondacks, Thousand Islands-Seaway, Central-Leatherstocking, Chautauqua-Allegheny, Niagara). Lists hundreds of attractions, dozens of resort communities. Details on Manhattan’s hotels, restaurants, theaters, museums/galleries, rail/air transportation. Other sections on the state’s beaches, camping, riding, sightseeing, ballooning, golf, hiking, fishing, boating.

Copies by writing to Tourism, Box 992, Latham, N.Y. 12110, or call toll-free (800) 225-5697.

Home Rentals: To readers who are still requesting information on home rentals, dozens of properties are listed in the World-Wide Home Rental Guide, P.O. Box 3842, Santa Fe, N.M. 87504. Single issues: $18. Homes, villas, condos in the Caribbean, Europe, Mexico, California, Colorado, Florida, Hawaii, Idaho, New York, North Carolina, Vermont. In Greece, you can move into a villa on a cliff on the island of Santorini for as little as $18 per person a day. In Hawaii, an upscale retreat on Maui is listed at a whopping $5,600 a week (three bedrooms, sauna, Jacuzzi, swimming pool). Dozens of other choices in this home-rental catalogue.

Note: For other home/villa/apartment rental information, we refer you to the April 22 Travel Tips column.

Caribbean Honeymoon: Tom Benson of Corona del Mar inquires about a “honeymoon resort” in the Caribbean. A longtime favorite is Cobbler’s Cove on the island of Barbados (rated as one of the 300 best hotels in the world). Cobbler’s is an all-suite resort. Bedrooms, sitting rooms, kitchenettes, patios. A beach, swimming pool, gardens. Complimentary tennis, water skiing, windsurfing, snorkeling. The hotel will arrange for island excursions, golf, deep-sea fishing, car rentals.

Cobbler’s Cove, St. Peter, Barbados, West Indies. Summer rates (May 13 to Oct. 27): $145 (MAP)/$120 (AP) single; $200 (MAP)/$150 (AP). Your travel agent or Robert Reid Associates at toll-free (800) 223-6510.

Reader Recommendations

California--Marilyn and Jim Shirley, Long Beach: Praise for the Cornell Hotel, 715 Bush St., San Francisco 94108. “Each floor named for a French artist. Fresh flowers, plants abound. In a convenient location to the shopping district near Union Square. Just a few steps from Powell Street cable car. Rates: $55/$75.”

California--Dorothy Hundley, North Hollywood: Impressed with the new Stouffer Esmeralda Resort, 44400 Indian Wells Lane, Indian Wells 92210, (619) 773-4444. “Opulent amenities, exquisite personal service. Meals at the Charisma restaurant and Sirocco were excellent.” Rates start at $230 (single/double).

California--Audrey R. Brantner, Los Angeles: “The Candlelight Inn is a lovely English Tudor, 1045 Easum Drive, Napa, Calif. 94558. Scrumptious breakfasts. A perfect getaway. Rates: $125/$155.”

Colorado--Carol Hutton, Upland: “Spent a glorious week in the high country of Colorado. We’d like to share our find, the Coulter Lake Guest Ranch, P.O. Box 906, Rifle, Colo. 81650. Weekly rates for 1990 are $600 for one person per cabin, or $525 each for two or more per cabin. Children 5 to 11 years, $400. Rates apply June 17 to Sept. 1. The ranch is family-oriented. Offers riding, swimming, fishing, hiking. A private lake stocked with trout. Delicious meals, cordial staff.”

Colorado--Pam Lenhert, Covina: Enjoyed Cafe Cascade between Durango and Silverton on Colorado 550 one mile from Purgatory Ski Resort. “One of the few restaurants that I looked forward to dining in night after night.”

Canada--John and Bette Blom, El Monte: “Discerning readers will love the Marlene Massey B&B;, 2463 Ottawa Ave., West Vancouver, B.C. V7V 2T2. Terrific location for skiing/ferries. Rate: $55 U.S. for two.”

England--Beverly Gammill, Idyllwild: Rhapsodizes about an inn in England. “Terraces and balconies overlooking a sheltered creek in the most scenic part of Cornwall. Six-day stay, inclusive of meals, use of a dinghy, picnic and trip, with hosts aboard their yacht: about $296 U.S. Contact Gelvinak, Pill Creek, Feock near Truro, Cornwall TR 365D.

England--Ute Hertel, Irvine: “A bed and breakfast operated by Mr. and Mrs. A. Murphy, 44 Thanet Road, Bexley, Kent DA5 1AP. Rates: $16 U.S. single, $32 double. Easy access to London and surrounding areas.”

England--Mrs. Louise Blum, Downey: “I had the great fortune of using the services of Basil Burrows of Meon Car Hire, 45 Meon Road, Mickleton, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire GL55 6TB, for a most enjoyable day spent touring the Cotswolds. I have been to England many times, but never have I experienced a more rewarding and comprehensive tour.”

England--Darlene Rand, Ojai: “A charming, accommodating and informative chauffeur-guide took us to fascinating, off-the-beaten-track places and treated us like family members. Full-day trips, $96 U.S. per car, mileage included up to 100 miles. Half-day trips, $48. Write to Pauline Cherry, Sunnyside Cottages, Rodmell, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 3HA.”

Ireland--Mr. and Mrs. William Webb, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii: Enjoyed the Connemara Coast Hotel, Furbo, County Galway, Ireland. “Rates: about $96 U.S. double, including breakfast. Near Galway City. Comfortable rooms, great views over Galway Bay. Pool, friendly staff.”

Scotland--Barnet Paule, Los Angeles: “Recommend Hatfield Guest House, 83 Mayfield Road, Edinburgh EH9 3AE. Spotless, comfortable, enormous breakfast. Rates: about $20 U.S. per person.”

Costa Rica--John Clark, Lake Elsinore: “I give high marks to the bed and breakfast operated by Jutta and Hans Fischer, Apartado 483-1150, San Jose-La Uruca, Costa Rica. Rates: $15 U.S. per person a night, including breakfast.”

Thailand--Louis R. Bechtel, Rancho Palos Verdes: “Hotel Tarntawan Place, 119/5-10 Suriwongse Road, Bangkok 10500. Single rate for deluxe room (booked through travel agents): $59 or $75 double. Includes service, taxes, full American breakfast. Shopping, restaurants, entertainment, banks all within walking distance. Mini-bars, private baths, color TVs.”

New Zealand--Petra Steward, Santa Monica: “Fabulous farm-stay by the sea. For only $100 U.S. each per night, we dined three times a day on home-grown New Zealand cuisine, toured the sheep farm, sailed on a yacht, soaked in a hot tub, tuned up our golf on the farm fairway and finished with a game of billiards. Write to Gordon Miller, Tongue Farm, Box 31, Matakana, Auckland. They have a Los Angeles contact: Adrienne Miller, 6945 Wildlife Road, Malibu 90265.”

We regret that only a select few recommendations can be used. They must be brief (typewritten or printed). Only one recommendation per reader, please. Note: Recommendations will not be used unless prices and addresses are included.