The 34 coolest, kitschiest, most fascinating motels in California
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Once upon a time in the 20th century, there were only a few reasons to book a motel room: to pinch pennies and move fast on a road trip, for instance, or to sleep with somebody inappropriate.
Nowadays there are more reasons.
The motel turns 100. Explore the state’s best roadside havens — and the coolest stops along the way.
You might try a motel now because it’s nicer than your home, or it pushes your nostalgia button, or pleases your eye for design, or because it doesn’t feel corporate. Whatever your motivations, people in the hospitality business seem to be listening. They might tiptoe around the m-word, but they’re bringing those properties back. Every week, it seems, another revived California roadside lodging reopens, many of them festooned with the bold, space-age shapes and signage that midcentury design geeks know as Googie.
In San Francisco’s Castro District, a new generation runs Beck’s Motor Lodge for an audience the founders never imagined. In Paso Robles, the River Lodge’s MOTEL sign rises high above the 101 like a rocket about to be launched from wine country. In Malibu, the Surfrider staff is standing by to lend you a surfboard or a Mini Cooper to cruise along PCH.
Here’s a guide to 34 motel-style lodgings from San Diego to San Francisco. All were built between the 1930s and 1970s. Many are pet-friendly (for a fee). Some are now adults-only. Many have been transformed in the last five years, so these entries take a then-and-now approach to telling their stories.
There are too many interesting old motels in California to cover them all — just in the Coachella Valley, there are more than a dozen — but I’ve been to all of these, along with several others that didn’t make the list. (Yes, there are still plenty of sketchy, unclean or unfriendly motels out there, and some of them have really cool signs, which doesn’t seem fair.)
No matter what they call themselves, all the lodgings here have guest rooms that open to the outdoors and most are positioned along highways and main arteries, not in city centers.
In other words, they’re road-trip ready.
Showing Places
(Jacob Tovar / For The Times)
River Lodge
Paso Robles Hotel
Then: The vintage red MOTEL sign hangs above the River Lodge like a hovering emissary from the planet Googie. It’s a reminder that this boomerang-shaped hotel building began its life in 1947. For years it was known as the Suburban Lodge Motel. Across the street from it, at the south end of Paso Robles, stood a drive-in theater.
Now: The drive-in is long gone, replaced by a shopping center. The River Lodge began its latest life in April 2024, when it reopened as a “retro-chic” boutique lodging, still shaped like a boomerang but profoundly changed by the Nomada Group, which has revised and relaunched several old motels along the central coast (including the Skyview Los Alamos and Farmhouse in Paso Robles). The pool — which has tripled in size — is 21-and-over. There’s a poolside bar, restaurant, pet area, hot tub, fire pit — and clever landscaping where the parking lot used to be.
Nomada’s designers (led by co-founder and creative director Kimberly Walker) moved the lot to the edge of the property and added grass, rose bushes and amenities where it had been. Instead of facing chrome and blacktop, guest rooms look upon their own little front lawns, a hammock hanging on every porch. Beyond the grass, the pool awaits, and there are bikes you can borrow.
The lodge has 28 guest rooms. The property’s patio restaurant, Ciao Papi, offers brunch, lunch and dinner and an Italian Riviera vibe. The lobby features a wonderfully curvy brick fireplace (which used to be outside).
The room interiors are entertaining too: window seats, fireplaces, custom furniture and neo-western art. Instead of a Gideon Bible you get curated book selections including “Where I Was From” by Joan Didion, “The 24-Hour Wine Expert” by Jancis Robinson and a creepy mystery/ghost story by Simone St. James called “The Sun Down Motel.” In the shop, you can buy merch that says MOTEL.
By the way, the River Lodge’s rebirth was no easy thing. The property sat idle for years, with plans to level it to make way for a new Hyatt, then was rescued when city leaders orchestrated a land swap that saved the old motel and allowed a Hyatt to rise elsewhere. (In 2017, the San Luis Obispo Tribune’s Joe Tarica wrote an entertaining opinion piece titled “Why this Paso motel and its 1950s schtick aren’t worth preserving.”)
The scene: The lodge stands three miles south of downtown Paso, so you wouldn’t walk it. But by car, it’s a quick hop to Tin City, the town of Templeton and the 20-plus wineries along Highway 46 west.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at $399, weekday rates at $199. Parking free. Dogs are welcome (for a fee), but families, take note: There are no rollaway beds, cots or pack-and-plays.
Now: The drive-in is long gone, replaced by a shopping center. The River Lodge began its latest life in April 2024, when it reopened as a “retro-chic” boutique lodging, still shaped like a boomerang but profoundly changed by the Nomada Group, which has revised and relaunched several old motels along the central coast (including the Skyview Los Alamos and Farmhouse in Paso Robles). The pool — which has tripled in size — is 21-and-over. There’s a poolside bar, restaurant, pet area, hot tub, fire pit — and clever landscaping where the parking lot used to be.
Nomada’s designers (led by co-founder and creative director Kimberly Walker) moved the lot to the edge of the property and added grass, rose bushes and amenities where it had been. Instead of facing chrome and blacktop, guest rooms look upon their own little front lawns, a hammock hanging on every porch. Beyond the grass, the pool awaits, and there are bikes you can borrow.
The lodge has 28 guest rooms. The property’s patio restaurant, Ciao Papi, offers brunch, lunch and dinner and an Italian Riviera vibe. The lobby features a wonderfully curvy brick fireplace (which used to be outside).
The room interiors are entertaining too: window seats, fireplaces, custom furniture and neo-western art. Instead of a Gideon Bible you get curated book selections including “Where I Was From” by Joan Didion, “The 24-Hour Wine Expert” by Jancis Robinson and a creepy mystery/ghost story by Simone St. James called “The Sun Down Motel.” In the shop, you can buy merch that says MOTEL.
By the way, the River Lodge’s rebirth was no easy thing. The property sat idle for years, with plans to level it to make way for a new Hyatt, then was rescued when city leaders orchestrated a land swap that saved the old motel and allowed a Hyatt to rise elsewhere. (In 2017, the San Luis Obispo Tribune’s Joe Tarica wrote an entertaining opinion piece titled “Why this Paso motel and its 1950s schtick aren’t worth preserving.”)
The scene: The lodge stands three miles south of downtown Paso, so you wouldn’t walk it. But by car, it’s a quick hop to Tin City, the town of Templeton and the 20-plus wineries along Highway 46 west.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at $399, weekday rates at $199. Parking free. Dogs are welcome (for a fee), but families, take note: There are no rollaway beds, cots or pack-and-plays.
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(Nic Coury / For The Times)
Glen Oaks Resort Adobe Motor Lodge
Big Sur Hotel
Then: From the start (1957), this was a rare bird: a motor lodge with adobe walls in the middle of a redwood forest.
Now: Since a dramatic redo that began in 2005, Glen Oaks’ eco-conscious amenities make it a sort of midpoint between Big Sur rustic (the spartan rooms and thin walls at Deetjen’s) and Big Sur ultralux (the Post Ranch Inn and Alila Ventana Big Sur). The 28-room motor lodge, neighbored by pricier cabins and cottages that are all part of the same 20-acre Glen Oaks property, still uses metal keys (because they work even if the power goes out). The buildings are nearly hidden by foliage and each unit has its own patio area, along with a shared firepit. There’s a short, private trail through the redwoods that skirts the Big Sur River for a bit and ends at a 150-foot suspension bridge. Inside, the motor lodge units have whitewashed brick walls, wood floors, yoga mats, gas-log fireplaces and big mirrors that you might mistake for passageways to another room. You might never guess that many of the materials are recycled, but they are. The designer of the hotel’s redo, Steve Justrich, has called this “homegrown modernism.” No TV.
The scene: It’s all forest and river, with Highway 1 threading its way through and Big Sur Roadhouse serving breakfast and lunch across the street. Oh, and just down the road, one of the world’s most dramatic coastlines awaits. From Glen Oaks it’s three miles south to the Big Sur Bakery or four miles to Nepenthe for a meal. (Because Highway 1 is closed at the south end of Big Sur, visitors from the south need to spend an extra hour or two taking U.S. 101 to Carmel, then doubling back to the south on Highway 1.)
The tab: Spring weekend and weekday rates start at $385, sometimes with a two-night minimum.
Now: Since a dramatic redo that began in 2005, Glen Oaks’ eco-conscious amenities make it a sort of midpoint between Big Sur rustic (the spartan rooms and thin walls at Deetjen’s) and Big Sur ultralux (the Post Ranch Inn and Alila Ventana Big Sur). The 28-room motor lodge, neighbored by pricier cabins and cottages that are all part of the same 20-acre Glen Oaks property, still uses metal keys (because they work even if the power goes out). The buildings are nearly hidden by foliage and each unit has its own patio area, along with a shared firepit. There’s a short, private trail through the redwoods that skirts the Big Sur River for a bit and ends at a 150-foot suspension bridge. Inside, the motor lodge units have whitewashed brick walls, wood floors, yoga mats, gas-log fireplaces and big mirrors that you might mistake for passageways to another room. You might never guess that many of the materials are recycled, but they are. The designer of the hotel’s redo, Steve Justrich, has called this “homegrown modernism.” No TV.
The scene: It’s all forest and river, with Highway 1 threading its way through and Big Sur Roadhouse serving breakfast and lunch across the street. Oh, and just down the road, one of the world’s most dramatic coastlines awaits. From Glen Oaks it’s three miles south to the Big Sur Bakery or four miles to Nepenthe for a meal. (Because Highway 1 is closed at the south end of Big Sur, visitors from the south need to spend an extra hour or two taking U.S. 101 to Carmel, then doubling back to the south on Highway 1.)
The tab: Spring weekend and weekday rates start at $385, sometimes with a two-night minimum.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Cambria Beach Lodge
Cambria Hotel
Then: This was one of the first motels along Moonstone Beach Drive, locals say, in the 1930s. It used to be called the Mariners Inn, and for a while it was affiliated with Best Western. Then came a big redo in 2016.
Now: Its layout is still classic midcentury motor lodge, but inside, the Cambria Beach Lodge aims higher. Its 27 guest rooms may be of modest size, but they have marble bathroom floors. Other goodies in guest rooms include goat’s milk soap, gummy bears and Mr. Zog’s Sex Wax.
Rooms feature lots of white and turquoise paint, surf photos and bleached wood floors. Some have fireplaces. There’s no pool, but the beach views from the lobby and upstairs deck are nice. For a fee, dogs are welcome.
The scene: This lodging sits along a row of inns and lodges (many of them former motels, including the upscale White Water, which is a sibling to the Cambria Beach Lodge). Just across the street, there’s a mile-long boardwalk above a beachfront bluff and a long stretch of dark-sand beach, punctuated by rock formations. Beach walkers pause to admire or arrange bleached and tangled driftwood. The Sea Chest restaurant is 50 yards away, but remember, it only takes cash and there are no reservations.
The tab: Spring weekends start at $314, weekdays at $184, plus a $12 optional amenity package that includes Wi-Fi and borrowing bikes. Free parking is available about four steps from your room.
Now: Its layout is still classic midcentury motor lodge, but inside, the Cambria Beach Lodge aims higher. Its 27 guest rooms may be of modest size, but they have marble bathroom floors. Other goodies in guest rooms include goat’s milk soap, gummy bears and Mr. Zog’s Sex Wax.
Rooms feature lots of white and turquoise paint, surf photos and bleached wood floors. Some have fireplaces. There’s no pool, but the beach views from the lobby and upstairs deck are nice. For a fee, dogs are welcome.
The scene: This lodging sits along a row of inns and lodges (many of them former motels, including the upscale White Water, which is a sibling to the Cambria Beach Lodge). Just across the street, there’s a mile-long boardwalk above a beachfront bluff and a long stretch of dark-sand beach, punctuated by rock formations. Beach walkers pause to admire or arrange bleached and tangled driftwood. The Sea Chest restaurant is 50 yards away, but remember, it only takes cash and there are no reservations.
The tab: Spring weekends start at $314, weekdays at $184, plus a $12 optional amenity package that includes Wi-Fi and borrowing bikes. Free parking is available about four steps from your room.
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(Nic Coury / For The Times)
Madonna Inn
San Luis Obispo Hotel
Then: This is the pink palace that road trips built, in more ways than one. The man behind the inn’s opening was Alex Madonna, who made his early dollars as owner of a construction company that built large chunks of nearby Highway 101. The inn opened in 1958 with 12 rooms, priced at $7 nightly. Those first rooms burned in an accidental fire in the mid-’60s, but already the inn was growing like a weed, no two rooms alike.
But Madonna didn’t bother with Midcentury Modernism. Instead he drew on his Swiss background and gave the inn a mountain-chalet look. Also, he had access to boulders, so he used a lot of them, on fireplaces, in bathrooms, bedrooms and beyond.
The inn quickly became a favorite stop for honeymooners, perhaps in part because Mrs. Madonna, Phyllis, wanted a lot of pink everywhere. Many a road-tripper realized that a night at the inn made a fine match with a visit to Hearst Castle, which also opened in 1958.
Now: Grown to 110 rooms along with a steakhouse, coffee shop, bakery, tennis courts, swimming pool (added in 2007), stables and its own mountain trail, the inn remains unlike any other. Yet when the Italian author Umberto Eco stopped by, he was sure he saw the influence of, ah, many others.
“Let’s say,” Eco wrote, “that Albert Speer, while leafing through a book on Gaudi, swallowed an overgenerous dose of LSD and began to build a nuptial catacomb for Liza Minnelli. But that doesn’t give you an idea. Let’s say ... Chopin’s Sonata in B-flat sung by Perry Como in an arrangement by Liberace and accompanied by the Marine Band.”
The Madonna family still owns it. The pool has a pleasant view of the hills, and you can book a horseback ride at the stables next door.
Matriarch Phyllis Madonna (now in her 90s) is still available on occasion to sign copies of her memoir. The bakery does big business; the waterfall in the lobby men’s room still cascades; and three gift shops peddle everything from goblets to jelly beans to jewelry (and a postcard for every room). Return customers and kitsch aficionados arrive every weekend, many buying the Madonna goblets in various colors.
“I’m a collector myself. I have almost 50,” gift shop clerk Emily Mounts confessed recently.
Dazey LaRue, 36, a San Francisco designer who makes items for the shop, calls the inn “my happy place. ... There’s the vintage charm. There’s the kitsch behind it.” And because all the rooms are different, she said, “it’s a new experience each time. It’s like waking up in a dream.”
The scene: Downtown San Luis Obispo and its popular Thursday night market are less than 2 miles away. Within 35 miles, you have the wineries of Paso Robles and the coastal towns of Pismo Beach and Morro Bay.
The tab: On spring weekends, rooms for two typically start at about $319, plus a resort fee of $34.05, plus taxes. On spring weekdays, rate often start at $249, plus resort fee and taxes.
But Madonna didn’t bother with Midcentury Modernism. Instead he drew on his Swiss background and gave the inn a mountain-chalet look. Also, he had access to boulders, so he used a lot of them, on fireplaces, in bathrooms, bedrooms and beyond.
The inn quickly became a favorite stop for honeymooners, perhaps in part because Mrs. Madonna, Phyllis, wanted a lot of pink everywhere. Many a road-tripper realized that a night at the inn made a fine match with a visit to Hearst Castle, which also opened in 1958.
Now: Grown to 110 rooms along with a steakhouse, coffee shop, bakery, tennis courts, swimming pool (added in 2007), stables and its own mountain trail, the inn remains unlike any other. Yet when the Italian author Umberto Eco stopped by, he was sure he saw the influence of, ah, many others.
“Let’s say,” Eco wrote, “that Albert Speer, while leafing through a book on Gaudi, swallowed an overgenerous dose of LSD and began to build a nuptial catacomb for Liza Minnelli. But that doesn’t give you an idea. Let’s say ... Chopin’s Sonata in B-flat sung by Perry Como in an arrangement by Liberace and accompanied by the Marine Band.”
The Madonna family still owns it. The pool has a pleasant view of the hills, and you can book a horseback ride at the stables next door.
Matriarch Phyllis Madonna (now in her 90s) is still available on occasion to sign copies of her memoir. The bakery does big business; the waterfall in the lobby men’s room still cascades; and three gift shops peddle everything from goblets to jelly beans to jewelry (and a postcard for every room). Return customers and kitsch aficionados arrive every weekend, many buying the Madonna goblets in various colors.
“I’m a collector myself. I have almost 50,” gift shop clerk Emily Mounts confessed recently.
Dazey LaRue, 36, a San Francisco designer who makes items for the shop, calls the inn “my happy place. ... There’s the vintage charm. There’s the kitsch behind it.” And because all the rooms are different, she said, “it’s a new experience each time. It’s like waking up in a dream.”
The scene: Downtown San Luis Obispo and its popular Thursday night market are less than 2 miles away. Within 35 miles, you have the wineries of Paso Robles and the coastal towns of Pismo Beach and Morro Bay.
The tab: On spring weekends, rooms for two typically start at about $319, plus a resort fee of $34.05, plus taxes. On spring weekdays, rate often start at $249, plus resort fee and taxes.
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(Jacob Tovar / For The Times)
Pacific Motel
San Luis Obispo Hotel
Then: This 19-room lodging started its Cayucos life in the 1950s and was known for years as the Dolphin Inn. But six of the bungalows are even older — they were built in the 1920s as military barracks for the California National Guard at Camp San Luis Obispo, then repurposed.
Now: All of that antiquity meant plenty of reconstruction and renovation when Ryan and Marisa Fortini bought the motel in 2019. (Ryan owned a landscape design company; Marisa is an interior designer.) By the time the Pacific Motel opened in 2022, many exterior walls were covered with whitewashed shiplap and striped fabric awnings. Many of the rooms have exposed-beam ceilings, and greenery grows handsomely in narrow strips between the parking area and rooms. There’s no pool, but the beach is basically across the street.
In 2024, the owners converted one of the guest rooms into a lobby-adjacent speakeasy, the Sally Tiger bar, which serves wine and beer to guests and locals in a snug space full of bright colors and quirks. In 2023, the Fortinis bought another budget property down the street — the eight-room 1952 Cayucos Motel, which remains open and basic for now.
For amenities, stick with the Pacific. There are bikes to borrow, fire pits, a pingpong table and an outdoor shower. Rooms range from 250 to 400 square feet with wood floors. Five have Scandinavian stoves, and five don’t share walls. Three have private patios. There are no closets, no desks and no dressers, but all units have little fridges, and linens are by the luxury brand Parachute.
The scene: On the main street in a sleepy beach town, the hotel is basically across the street from the water and half an hour from Paso Robles wine tasting. Hidden Kitchen is a popular breakfast spot (try the blue corn waffles).
The tab: Spring weekend rates at the Pacific usually start at $259 a night; weekdays are $170. Rates rise in summer.
Now: All of that antiquity meant plenty of reconstruction and renovation when Ryan and Marisa Fortini bought the motel in 2019. (Ryan owned a landscape design company; Marisa is an interior designer.) By the time the Pacific Motel opened in 2022, many exterior walls were covered with whitewashed shiplap and striped fabric awnings. Many of the rooms have exposed-beam ceilings, and greenery grows handsomely in narrow strips between the parking area and rooms. There’s no pool, but the beach is basically across the street.
In 2024, the owners converted one of the guest rooms into a lobby-adjacent speakeasy, the Sally Tiger bar, which serves wine and beer to guests and locals in a snug space full of bright colors and quirks. In 2023, the Fortinis bought another budget property down the street — the eight-room 1952 Cayucos Motel, which remains open and basic for now.
For amenities, stick with the Pacific. There are bikes to borrow, fire pits, a pingpong table and an outdoor shower. Rooms range from 250 to 400 square feet with wood floors. Five have Scandinavian stoves, and five don’t share walls. Three have private patios. There are no closets, no desks and no dressers, but all units have little fridges, and linens are by the luxury brand Parachute.
The scene: On the main street in a sleepy beach town, the hotel is basically across the street from the water and half an hour from Paso Robles wine tasting. Hidden Kitchen is a popular breakfast spot (try the blue corn waffles).
The tab: Spring weekend rates at the Pacific usually start at $259 a night; weekdays are $170. Rates rise in summer.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Hotel Del Sol
San Francisco Hotel
Then: “Back in 1950, when the place opened, it was called the Plantation Inn,” said Inez Esparza, the sales manager. Then, as now, it had about 55 rooms enclosing a courtyard with a little pool, and a bar by the pool. In vintage postcards, it’s pink.
Now: Coated in yellows, blues and mosaic tiles, the hotel bills itself as a kid-friendly oasis, its pool heated year-round to 83 degrees, with a neighboring fire pit. (The poolside bar is gone.) There’s lots of orange in the guestrooms to underline the vintage vibe. Snug bathrooms. There are bikes you can borrow and continental breakfast is included. Still, the neighborhood is urban enough to require nonguests to buzz their way in. Pets are allowed for a fee.
The scene: The hotel is about three blocks from the shops and restaurants of Union Street (including the popular lunch takeaway spot Mama’s Luncheonette at Buchanan and Union streets), and about a mile from the Fisherman’s Wharf cable car turnaround at Hyde and Beach streets.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at about $221, weekdays about $191. Parking is the biggest drawback — it’ll run you $45 per night.
Now: Coated in yellows, blues and mosaic tiles, the hotel bills itself as a kid-friendly oasis, its pool heated year-round to 83 degrees, with a neighboring fire pit. (The poolside bar is gone.) There’s lots of orange in the guestrooms to underline the vintage vibe. Snug bathrooms. There are bikes you can borrow and continental breakfast is included. Still, the neighborhood is urban enough to require nonguests to buzz their way in. Pets are allowed for a fee.
The scene: The hotel is about three blocks from the shops and restaurants of Union Street (including the popular lunch takeaway spot Mama’s Luncheonette at Buchanan and Union streets), and about a mile from the Fisherman’s Wharf cable car turnaround at Hyde and Beach streets.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at about $221, weekdays about $191. Parking is the biggest drawback — it’ll run you $45 per night.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Safari Inn
Burbank Hotel
Then: This has always been a big motel with perhaps the most startling neon sign in the San Fernando Valley — a Googie wonder featuring spears and a shield. Opened in 1955, it has more than 50 rooms on two levels, including several suites with full kitchens. There’s a second-level sundeck next to the pool.
Now: Though the property is part of Vancouver-based Coast Hotels, it’s rich in L.A. vibes, including its film credits. It served as a hideout for two characters in Tony Scott’s “True Romance” (1993), and the astronauts’ wives stayed there in Ron Howard’s “Apollo 13” (1995). Some interiors have a jungle theme. For a fee, the hotel accepts not only dogs but also cats, birds, pigs, goats, snakes “and more” in ground-floor rooms, so long as the animals aren’t left alone in rooms. (The hotel website notes that guests on various Animal Planet shows have checked in with their pets.)
The scene: You’re 1.5 miles from the Warner Bros. studio (and its popular backlot tour), 1.9 miles from the oldest Bob’s Big Boy and 4.5 miles from Universal Studios Hollywood. And if you’re in a deep midcentury mood, it’s a five-minute walk to the venerable Talleyrand restaurant (American comfort food since 1959). Next door to the Safari, its sibling the Coast Burbank Hotel offers Safari guests access to its fitness room.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at around $284 (including fees and taxes), weekdays around $317. Free parking, laundry facilities and free shuttle service to and from the Burbank airport.
Now: Though the property is part of Vancouver-based Coast Hotels, it’s rich in L.A. vibes, including its film credits. It served as a hideout for two characters in Tony Scott’s “True Romance” (1993), and the astronauts’ wives stayed there in Ron Howard’s “Apollo 13” (1995). Some interiors have a jungle theme. For a fee, the hotel accepts not only dogs but also cats, birds, pigs, goats, snakes “and more” in ground-floor rooms, so long as the animals aren’t left alone in rooms. (The hotel website notes that guests on various Animal Planet shows have checked in with their pets.)
The scene: You’re 1.5 miles from the Warner Bros. studio (and its popular backlot tour), 1.9 miles from the oldest Bob’s Big Boy and 4.5 miles from Universal Studios Hollywood. And if you’re in a deep midcentury mood, it’s a five-minute walk to the venerable Talleyrand restaurant (American comfort food since 1959). Next door to the Safari, its sibling the Coast Burbank Hotel offers Safari guests access to its fitness room.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at around $284 (including fees and taxes), weekdays around $317. Free parking, laundry facilities and free shuttle service to and from the Burbank airport.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Sea & Sand Inn
Santa Cruz Hotel
Then: The Sea & Sand Motel had a prime spot, atop a cliff at the end of Bay Street, overlooking Cowell Beach and the municipal wharf. So the owners took advantage: They put up a massive red-and-white MOTEL sign in its backyard, visible to anyone looking up from below. Its origin story is murky, but the motel was definitely open in 1956.
Now: The backyard sign is gone (as are the eucalyptus trees seen in ’60s postcards), but the property still clings to the clifftop. (A solid fence protects guests from slippage). The inn has 21 rooms on two floors. Parking is awkward because the property is such a narrow sliver of land, but every room has an ocean view and a gas fireplace. The backyard has plenty of seating with sea views. The lounge offers wine and cheese in the afternoon and recently added hot breakfasts, all included. There has been plenty of updating, but it’s still not fancy. If you’re chasing ’60s vibes and your wallet is full, you might prefer the more stylish, pricier, taller Dream Inn (built in 1963) next door. Will erosion put the Sea & Sand in peril some day? Every guest must wonder. For now, it’s a homey spot in a prime location. Some rooms have balconies, some have hot tubs.
The scene: If you can tear yourself away from that backyard view, you’re a five-minute walk from either the wharf or the handsome homes and surf spots along West Cliff Drive.
The tab: Spring room rates typically start at $449 on weekends, and run as low as $170 on weeknights. Two-night minimum on weekends.
Now: The backyard sign is gone (as are the eucalyptus trees seen in ’60s postcards), but the property still clings to the clifftop. (A solid fence protects guests from slippage). The inn has 21 rooms on two floors. Parking is awkward because the property is such a narrow sliver of land, but every room has an ocean view and a gas fireplace. The backyard has plenty of seating with sea views. The lounge offers wine and cheese in the afternoon and recently added hot breakfasts, all included. There has been plenty of updating, but it’s still not fancy. If you’re chasing ’60s vibes and your wallet is full, you might prefer the more stylish, pricier, taller Dream Inn (built in 1963) next door. Will erosion put the Sea & Sand in peril some day? Every guest must wonder. For now, it’s a homey spot in a prime location. Some rooms have balconies, some have hot tubs.
The scene: If you can tear yourself away from that backyard view, you’re a five-minute walk from either the wharf or the handsome homes and surf spots along West Cliff Drive.
The tab: Spring room rates typically start at $449 on weekends, and run as low as $170 on weeknights. Two-night minimum on weekends.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Le Petit Pali Ocean Avenue
Carmel Hotel
Then: Among many motels that arose along Carmel’s busy Junipero Street in the 20th century, only one had the prime spot at the top of Ocean Boulevard. To start, in 1954, it was known as the Village Inn, each of its 23 rooms “equipped with a telephone, tub and shower” and decorated in French Provincial style. Owner-operators Ken and Beryl Brown ran it for 30 years. It went through a series of owners and changes after that. For several years before its current chapter began in 2023, it was known as the Getaway.
Now: As part of the style-conscious Palisociety hotel group, the hotel is a sibling to the nearby 24-room Le Petit Pali on 8th Street. There’s no pool at either. But the Ocean Avenue property’s rooms (now 34) have been updated with style, and high-end amenities abound. Gas-log fireplaces. Bikes to borrow, bottled water from New Zealand, nightly house-made cookies. You will encounter the word “bespoke” often. You won’t detect a Midcentury Modern vibe at all. But if you crave caviar, you can order it for $99.
The scene: Ocean Boulevard is the commercial spine of Carmel, a string of quaint, snug shops and restaurants running about 10 blocks down to a juniper-lined, windswept beach.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start around $565. Weekdays start at $345.
Now: As part of the style-conscious Palisociety hotel group, the hotel is a sibling to the nearby 24-room Le Petit Pali on 8th Street. There’s no pool at either. But the Ocean Avenue property’s rooms (now 34) have been updated with style, and high-end amenities abound. Gas-log fireplaces. Bikes to borrow, bottled water from New Zealand, nightly house-made cookies. You will encounter the word “bespoke” often. You won’t detect a Midcentury Modern vibe at all. But if you crave caviar, you can order it for $99.
The scene: Ocean Boulevard is the commercial spine of Carmel, a string of quaint, snug shops and restaurants running about 10 blocks down to a juniper-lined, windswept beach.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start around $565. Weekdays start at $345.
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(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Times)
Capri Hotel
Ojai Hotel
Then: Built in 1963, the Capri Motel added a dash of budget modernism in a sleepy town more inclined to Spanish Colonial Revival. (Bart’s Books and its open-air shelves would open the following year.) The motel lobby featured a glass wall and a fireplace surrounded by Mediterranean-style rocks. There were 30 rooms.
Now: Sometime after 1973, workers replaced the M in the Capri Motel sign with an H. After taking over management in 2020, Shelter Social Club unveiled an updated design, with elements of minimalism, Italian contemporary accents, fire pit and bikes you can borrow. (Run by Ojai-based Kenny Osehan, Shelter Social Club also manages the nearby Hummingbird Inn and Ojai Rancho Inn, occasionally staging artists’ and makers’ markets.)
In the Capri’s rooms you find lots of light earth tones, gentle curves and blond wood. The pool endures, and it’s neighbored by a pleasant grassy area that cries out for weddings and croquet tournaments. The merchandise in the tiny shop tells you the vibe this place aims for — from Toothache magazine (for foodies) to CBD bath salts. Bear in mind, however, that many guests have mentioned thin walls. The hotel has no restaurant, but several are within walking distance.
The scene: Ojai might still be sleepy on weekdays, but visitors surge in and traffic slows on Ojai Avenue every weekend. Restaurants fill with Angelenos and Venturans at play, as do shops along the colonnade. At Libbey Park downtown, you might play tennis (eight courts) or catch a concert in Libbey Bowl.
The tab: Perhaps because there are few hotels in Ojai and tight limits on vacation rentals, rates can be high. Capri room rates in spring typically begin at $280 on weeknights, $430 on weekends. Free parking.
Now: Sometime after 1973, workers replaced the M in the Capri Motel sign with an H. After taking over management in 2020, Shelter Social Club unveiled an updated design, with elements of minimalism, Italian contemporary accents, fire pit and bikes you can borrow. (Run by Ojai-based Kenny Osehan, Shelter Social Club also manages the nearby Hummingbird Inn and Ojai Rancho Inn, occasionally staging artists’ and makers’ markets.)
In the Capri’s rooms you find lots of light earth tones, gentle curves and blond wood. The pool endures, and it’s neighbored by a pleasant grassy area that cries out for weddings and croquet tournaments. The merchandise in the tiny shop tells you the vibe this place aims for — from Toothache magazine (for foodies) to CBD bath salts. Bear in mind, however, that many guests have mentioned thin walls. The hotel has no restaurant, but several are within walking distance.
The scene: Ojai might still be sleepy on weekdays, but visitors surge in and traffic slows on Ojai Avenue every weekend. Restaurants fill with Angelenos and Venturans at play, as do shops along the colonnade. At Libbey Park downtown, you might play tennis (eight courts) or catch a concert in Libbey Bowl.
The tab: Perhaps because there are few hotels in Ojai and tight limits on vacation rentals, rates can be high. Capri room rates in spring typically begin at $280 on weeknights, $430 on weekends. Free parking.
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(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
Skyview Los Alamos
Hotel
Then: The motel went up on a well-placed hilltop in 1959. The website notes that in the early days, families paid 25 cents to swim. But later the motel shut down and (per the website) locals, reminded of “Psycho,” started calling it the “Bates Motel.”
Now: Later owners brought the Skyview back to life and gave it a fanciful western theme with hand-painted furniture, but they did little to improve the awkward layout of buildings, parking lot and pool. The Nomada Group bought the 5-acre property in 2016 and reopened it in 2018, its mysteriously generic MOTEL sign still in place. The team also moved parking away to create a courtyard and renovated the 33 guest rooms (195 square feet and up), giving some private patios. The office has one of those groovy orange cone ’60s fireplaces. The saltwater pool is forever 84 degrees. Also, the restaurant is now called Norman — a sly “Psycho” reference. (On the dinner menu, I recommend Mary’s chicken.) Dogs are welcome (for a fee) but children are banned from the pool as part of a general adult vibe (no cribs, no rollaways, no more than two people in any room). There are bikes to borrow. The wine menu features a pinot noir said to include grapes from the property’s tiny, sloping vineyard. Or if you prefer, you can order the $125 Champagne-and-caviar special, which comes with house-made Kennebec potato chips.
The Scene: Los Alamos, midway between Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo, is a tiny town near Santa Barbara wine country with far more intriguing restaurants, tasting rooms and antique shops than any town of 880 people should expect. Just about everything of interest (except the Skyview) is along its main street, Bell Street, just west of the 101. The Skyview, meanwhile, looks down on town from a hilltop to the east, so it’s a ride or drive from Skyview to town, but then you can walk everywhere. Bear in mind that much of town shuts down midweek, including Bob’s Well Bread Bakery, a great breakfast and lunch spot, with picnic tables under shade trees (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays).
The Tab: Room rates in spring typically begin at $200 (before tax) on weekdays, $400 on weekends. No resort fee. Two-night minimum on weekends (and a three-night minimum over some holidays).
Now: Later owners brought the Skyview back to life and gave it a fanciful western theme with hand-painted furniture, but they did little to improve the awkward layout of buildings, parking lot and pool. The Nomada Group bought the 5-acre property in 2016 and reopened it in 2018, its mysteriously generic MOTEL sign still in place. The team also moved parking away to create a courtyard and renovated the 33 guest rooms (195 square feet and up), giving some private patios. The office has one of those groovy orange cone ’60s fireplaces. The saltwater pool is forever 84 degrees. Also, the restaurant is now called Norman — a sly “Psycho” reference. (On the dinner menu, I recommend Mary’s chicken.) Dogs are welcome (for a fee) but children are banned from the pool as part of a general adult vibe (no cribs, no rollaways, no more than two people in any room). There are bikes to borrow. The wine menu features a pinot noir said to include grapes from the property’s tiny, sloping vineyard. Or if you prefer, you can order the $125 Champagne-and-caviar special, which comes with house-made Kennebec potato chips.
The Scene: Los Alamos, midway between Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo, is a tiny town near Santa Barbara wine country with far more intriguing restaurants, tasting rooms and antique shops than any town of 880 people should expect. Just about everything of interest (except the Skyview) is along its main street, Bell Street, just west of the 101. The Skyview, meanwhile, looks down on town from a hilltop to the east, so it’s a ride or drive from Skyview to town, but then you can walk everywhere. Bear in mind that much of town shuts down midweek, including Bob’s Well Bread Bakery, a great breakfast and lunch spot, with picnic tables under shade trees (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays).
The Tab: Room rates in spring typically begin at $200 (before tax) on weekdays, $400 on weekends. No resort fee. Two-night minimum on weekends (and a three-night minimum over some holidays).
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Hotel June Malibu
Malibu Hotel
Then: In 1949, when Malibu’s Point Dume area was truly rustic, Wayne and Helen Wilcox built the 13-room Malibu Riviera Motel on the ocean side of PCH — sleeping in a tent and laying bricks themselves, as the Malibu Times reports. They painted it pink and raised their children there (dwelling in rooms 1-3) and Wayne, a photographer, documented midcentury Malibu life. From the start, it was a long, narrow building slightly downhill from the highway — one story, flat roof, brick walls, Dutch doors. According to lore, Bob Dylan lived in room 13 for much of 1974, writing material for his “Blood on the Tracks” album. The family continued to run the property after Wayne Wilcox’s death (in 2001), until new buyers stepped up in 2016.
Now: The new team renamed the property the Native hotel. Then in 2021, after damage from the Woolsey fire and extensive repairs, they renamed it again: Hotel June Malibu. They added a heated swimming pool, which is near the end of the gravel access road to the hotel. Beyond their black exteriors, the minimalist rooms feature black-and-white photos by Wilcox, concrete floors and private patios. Some have bunk beds and hammocks. There are bikes and surfboards to borrow.
The scene: You’ll probably want to drive to reach the beach, but you’re within 2 miles of Paradise Cove (to the east) and Zuma Beach (to the west). The well-regarded Gravina restaurant (Italian) is just across the highway.
The tab: Spring weekend rates begin at $468, including a daily amenity fee of $27. Weekday rates start at $408. Parking is an additional $27 nightly. Pets OK for a fee.
Now: The new team renamed the property the Native hotel. Then in 2021, after damage from the Woolsey fire and extensive repairs, they renamed it again: Hotel June Malibu. They added a heated swimming pool, which is near the end of the gravel access road to the hotel. Beyond their black exteriors, the minimalist rooms feature black-and-white photos by Wilcox, concrete floors and private patios. Some have bunk beds and hammocks. There are bikes and surfboards to borrow.
The scene: You’ll probably want to drive to reach the beach, but you’re within 2 miles of Paradise Cove (to the east) and Zuma Beach (to the west). The well-regarded Gravina restaurant (Italian) is just across the highway.
The tab: Spring weekend rates begin at $468, including a daily amenity fee of $27. Weekday rates start at $408. Parking is an additional $27 nightly. Pets OK for a fee.
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(Megan Morello / For The Times)
The Pearl Hotel
San Diego Hotel
Then: It was 1959 and San Diego’s downtown and waterfront were still taking shape when this compact motel opened on Rosecrans Street in Point Loma. Designed by Point Loma architect Robert Platt, it had 23 rooms in a two-story rectangle surrounding an oyster-shaped pool. Owned and managed by a local couple, it was called the Sportsman’s Lodge, and it had a big brown-and-yellow sign out front.
Now: The old sign is gone. But its cursive replacement reverberates with ’50s vibes. The Casetta Group (which also redid the Surfrider Malibu and several other boutique hotels in the West) took over in 2018. Designers did their best to highlight the space’s midcentury elements, which include Mediterranean stone walls (with twinkling quartz).
The dinner-only restaurant and bar, Ponyboy, has a menu full of updated dishes with ’60s overtones, including deviled eggs, oysters Rockefeller and tuna casserole.
Bamboo lines the courtyard. Artwork in the rooms pays homage to Japanese pearl divers (for whom the hotel is named). The oyster-shaped pool, heated year-round, is the focus of Wednesday night “dive-in” movies and other festivities (including one private wedding reception that featured synchronized swimmers). Amenities include many sustainable products, including hemp robes and bamboo-fiber toilet paper. Most rooms are 230 to 250 square feet with platform beds, wood floors, cups and lamps from a local ceramicist and white walls — “that coastal vibe,” said hotel manager Sarah Chazaro.
The scene: The good news is you’re close to the waterfront, the pies at Pizza Nova, the fresh catch at Point Loma Seafoods and the old lighthouse and tidepools of Cabrillo National Monument. Bad news is that Rosecrans is noisy. Fortunately the hotel’s layout is designed to minimize the roar (and the desk clerks can supply earplugs).
The tab: Weekend rates often start at $239 a night, weekdays at $199.
Now: The old sign is gone. But its cursive replacement reverberates with ’50s vibes. The Casetta Group (which also redid the Surfrider Malibu and several other boutique hotels in the West) took over in 2018. Designers did their best to highlight the space’s midcentury elements, which include Mediterranean stone walls (with twinkling quartz).
The dinner-only restaurant and bar, Ponyboy, has a menu full of updated dishes with ’60s overtones, including deviled eggs, oysters Rockefeller and tuna casserole.
Bamboo lines the courtyard. Artwork in the rooms pays homage to Japanese pearl divers (for whom the hotel is named). The oyster-shaped pool, heated year-round, is the focus of Wednesday night “dive-in” movies and other festivities (including one private wedding reception that featured synchronized swimmers). Amenities include many sustainable products, including hemp robes and bamboo-fiber toilet paper. Most rooms are 230 to 250 square feet with platform beds, wood floors, cups and lamps from a local ceramicist and white walls — “that coastal vibe,” said hotel manager Sarah Chazaro.
The scene: The good news is you’re close to the waterfront, the pies at Pizza Nova, the fresh catch at Point Loma Seafoods and the old lighthouse and tidepools of Cabrillo National Monument. Bad news is that Rosecrans is noisy. Fortunately the hotel’s layout is designed to minimize the roar (and the desk clerks can supply earplugs).
The tab: Weekend rates often start at $239 a night, weekdays at $199.
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(Al Seib / For The Times)
Surfrider Malibu
Malibu Hotel
Then: Back in 1953, before “Gidget” was a book, movie or TV series, the Malibu Shores Motel opened along Pacific Coast Highway. Rooms opened to outdoor walkways that looked down on the beach.
Now: Can a beach motel get fancier than this? I doubt it. Redone as apartments, redone again as a hotel, then redone again and renamed the Surfrider Malibu in 2017, the lodging has 20 rooms, including two suites. They feature plenty of whitewash, tongue-and-groove cladding, exposed beams in some units, teak floors and a beach-house vibe. Most notably, there’s now a roof deck bar/restaurant open only to hotel guests (and guests of guests). The old walkways facing the beach are now private balconies draped with hammocks woven in Amazonia. The rooms now open to walkways on the inland side of the building. The new sign’s cursive script hints at the property’s midcentury history, while the amenities and prices declare modern coastal exclusivity. There’s a library on the second floor with a couple of couches and a ukulele. There are not only surfboards and beach gear you can borrow but a pair of Mini Coopers. (The Surfrider doesn’t lend bikes because PCH is PCH.) Since the fires of January, most of the hotel’s guests have been displaced neighbors. Meal service on the roof deck was suspended for months but has resumed in limited form.
The scene: You’re just across the highway from Surfrider Beach, 100 yards from the Malibu Pier (which includes Malibu Farm restaurant) and an easy stroll from Aviator Nation Dreamland (a restaurant, bar and live music venue) and Pita ‘Bu (falafel and fish tacos). Also walkable: Malibu State Beach and the historic Adamson House.
The tab: Spring rates start at $749 for weekends, $599 for weekdays, more in summer. (The lone ground-floor back room is cheaper.) Pricing for all units includes a $35 daily amenity fee and $20 sustainability fee. Separately, there’s a $25 daily parking fee.
Now: Can a beach motel get fancier than this? I doubt it. Redone as apartments, redone again as a hotel, then redone again and renamed the Surfrider Malibu in 2017, the lodging has 20 rooms, including two suites. They feature plenty of whitewash, tongue-and-groove cladding, exposed beams in some units, teak floors and a beach-house vibe. Most notably, there’s now a roof deck bar/restaurant open only to hotel guests (and guests of guests). The old walkways facing the beach are now private balconies draped with hammocks woven in Amazonia. The rooms now open to walkways on the inland side of the building. The new sign’s cursive script hints at the property’s midcentury history, while the amenities and prices declare modern coastal exclusivity. There’s a library on the second floor with a couple of couches and a ukulele. There are not only surfboards and beach gear you can borrow but a pair of Mini Coopers. (The Surfrider doesn’t lend bikes because PCH is PCH.) Since the fires of January, most of the hotel’s guests have been displaced neighbors. Meal service on the roof deck was suspended for months but has resumed in limited form.
The scene: You’re just across the highway from Surfrider Beach, 100 yards from the Malibu Pier (which includes Malibu Farm restaurant) and an easy stroll from Aviator Nation Dreamland (a restaurant, bar and live music venue) and Pita ‘Bu (falafel and fish tacos). Also walkable: Malibu State Beach and the historic Adamson House.
The tab: Spring rates start at $749 for weekends, $599 for weekdays, more in summer. (The lone ground-floor back room is cheaper.) Pricing for all units includes a $35 daily amenity fee and $20 sustainability fee. Separately, there’s a $25 daily parking fee.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
The Tangerine
Burbank Hotel
Then: Burbank’s Tangerine, another reborn “retrochic” lodging, entered the world in 1960 as the Holiday Lodge Motel. It’s lost a few midcentury details since the old days, but the layout is unmistakable.
Now: Dramatically renovated about 20 years ago, the building is gunmetal gray with bright orange doors and railings, 31 rooms on two levels and a compact pool (with vending machines nearby). Some rooms have wood floors, some concrete, some carpet. All have fridges and bathtubs. No suites. It’s a plainer sibling to the more stylish Skylark in Palm Springs.
The scene: The Tangerine is walking distance from the Warner Bros. studio tour, the original Bob’s Big Boy (serving since 1949) and a bevy of local restaurants.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at $239 plus tax, weekends at $229.
Now: Dramatically renovated about 20 years ago, the building is gunmetal gray with bright orange doors and railings, 31 rooms on two levels and a compact pool (with vending machines nearby). Some rooms have wood floors, some concrete, some carpet. All have fridges and bathtubs. No suites. It’s a plainer sibling to the more stylish Skylark in Palm Springs.
The scene: The Tangerine is walking distance from the Warner Bros. studio tour, the original Bob’s Big Boy (serving since 1949) and a bevy of local restaurants.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at $239 plus tax, weekends at $229.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
The Green Room
Northern San Diego Hotel
Then: The old motel went up in the 1950s and evolved into the by-the-month situation known as the Ocean Breeze Inn. In 2020, Stephen and Brett Poovey of Carlsbad bought it and brought in designers to make it over. When they were making plans, COVID hadn’t arrived yet, but they liked the idea of making it a contactless hotel, with guests using their phones as digital room keys.
Now: Coated in flat black paint, its walkways lined with pebbles and rooms shielded by hedges, the Green Room is today a stealthy surf hotel, reopened in 2021. There’s no office or front desk. There are picnic tables, a firepit, one outdoor shower, surfboards to borrow and a hot tub. The six rooms and six suites include Moroccan rugs here and there, whitewashed brick interior walls and exposed beams. Some rooms have kitchenettes; some have private patios. Pets are usually OK with advance warning and a fee.
The scene: You’re on the main drag in formerly gritty, up-and-coming South Oceanside, a 15-minute walk from Cassidy Street Beach, half a mile south of the Plot (a popular plant-based restaurant) and a mile north of Carlsbad Village.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start around $269 a night, weekdays around $149. No resort fee or parking fee.
Now: Coated in flat black paint, its walkways lined with pebbles and rooms shielded by hedges, the Green Room is today a stealthy surf hotel, reopened in 2021. There’s no office or front desk. There are picnic tables, a firepit, one outdoor shower, surfboards to borrow and a hot tub. The six rooms and six suites include Moroccan rugs here and there, whitewashed brick interior walls and exposed beams. Some rooms have kitchenettes; some have private patios. Pets are usually OK with advance warning and a fee.
The scene: You’re on the main drag in formerly gritty, up-and-coming South Oceanside, a 15-minute walk from Cassidy Street Beach, half a mile south of the Plot (a popular plant-based restaurant) and a mile north of Carlsbad Village.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start around $269 a night, weekdays around $149. No resort fee or parking fee.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Wigwam Motel
Hotel
Then: Frank A. Redford of Horse Cave, Ky., didn’t just hatch one wild idea in 1935. Over time he hatched seven siblings — a series of Wigwam Villages that went up across the U.S. in the 1930s and ’40s. At each village, every room would be a poured concrete tepee unto itself and the store would feature displays of Native artifacts. (Apparently, Redford liked wigwam better than tepee even though it was inaccurate — wigwams are domed dwellings.) The San Bernardino location, near the west end of Route 66, was the last of the group, completed in 1949. The 19 guest units are arrayed in a semicircle with parking adjacent to each.
Now: Wigwam Village has evolved into Wigwam Motel. But the essence remains. The 19 tepees and office (all 32 feet high) are outfitted with air-conditioning units and neighbored by a lawn and swimming pool. (Animation fans will notice a striking similarity between the Wigwam Motel and the Cozy Cone Motel in the Pixar series of “Cars” movies that began in 2006.) I was sad to see that the interiors have flat ceilings of standard height, so once you’re inside, you lose most of the cone effect. Still, front desk clerk Chris Patel (nephew of the owner) said many guests are pleased to step inside, because they fear something more cramped but get 178 square feet or more, depending on the unit. The property is notably well-tended and has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (Only two of the other six Wigwam Villages remain, in Cave City, Ky., and Holbrook, Ariz.)
“It reminds me of college. Very dormy,” said guest Brenna Begin, 22, who was attending a music festival in the area and found the motel to be the most affordable lodging option.
The office stocks plenty of Route 66 merchandise (including ashtrays and salt shakers) and has a carved wooden Native American out front.
I asked owner Samir Patel, whose family’s roots are in India and San Bernardino, if he gets any complaints about the motel’s mimicry of Native culture, and how he responds. He doesn’t hear any such complaints, Patel said, adding that his family bought the motel in 2003 for its role in roadside Route 66 history.
The scene: You’re right on Route 66, which turns 100 in 2026. But the immediate neighborhood is dull — a self-storage facility, an auto shop and a big U-Haul operation across the street.
The tab: In the morning, guests can get coffee and granola bars. Rooms have small refrigerators, TVs and, yes, these tepees have Wi-Fi. Spring room rates typically start at $124 on weekdays, $149 on weekends — but on the slowest days, rates dip below $100. Conversely, if your visit coincides with a rave/music festival at the nearby National Orange Show Event Center, those rates could nearly double.
Now: Wigwam Village has evolved into Wigwam Motel. But the essence remains. The 19 tepees and office (all 32 feet high) are outfitted with air-conditioning units and neighbored by a lawn and swimming pool. (Animation fans will notice a striking similarity between the Wigwam Motel and the Cozy Cone Motel in the Pixar series of “Cars” movies that began in 2006.) I was sad to see that the interiors have flat ceilings of standard height, so once you’re inside, you lose most of the cone effect. Still, front desk clerk Chris Patel (nephew of the owner) said many guests are pleased to step inside, because they fear something more cramped but get 178 square feet or more, depending on the unit. The property is notably well-tended and has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (Only two of the other six Wigwam Villages remain, in Cave City, Ky., and Holbrook, Ariz.)
“It reminds me of college. Very dormy,” said guest Brenna Begin, 22, who was attending a music festival in the area and found the motel to be the most affordable lodging option.
The office stocks plenty of Route 66 merchandise (including ashtrays and salt shakers) and has a carved wooden Native American out front.
I asked owner Samir Patel, whose family’s roots are in India and San Bernardino, if he gets any complaints about the motel’s mimicry of Native culture, and how he responds. He doesn’t hear any such complaints, Patel said, adding that his family bought the motel in 2003 for its role in roadside Route 66 history.
The scene: You’re right on Route 66, which turns 100 in 2026. But the immediate neighborhood is dull — a self-storage facility, an auto shop and a big U-Haul operation across the street.
The tab: In the morning, guests can get coffee and granola bars. Rooms have small refrigerators, TVs and, yes, these tepees have Wi-Fi. Spring room rates typically start at $124 on weekdays, $149 on weekends — but on the slowest days, rates dip below $100. Conversely, if your visit coincides with a rave/music festival at the nearby National Orange Show Event Center, those rates could nearly double.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Pioneertown Motel
Hotel
Then: The Pioneertown Motel opened in 1946 along with the rest of Pioneertown, a sagebrush Potemkin village built as an Old West stage set, not far from Joshua Tree. Were there motels in the Old West? Um, no. No bowling alleys or ice cream shops, either. But the early investors — including frequent screen villain Dick Curtis, Roy Rogers, Gene Autry and the Sons of the Pioneers singing group — wanted the property to do double duty as a tourist attraction, so here they are. Dozens of long-ago films and TV shows were shot here. The 19-room motel, built log-cabin style, was first known as the Townhouse. In Room 9, according to lore, Autry used to play poker until dawn.
Now: Brothers Mike and Matt French own the motel as well as the Red Dog Saloon down the block. Metal keys open the weathered wooden guest room doors. Western landscapes decorate the walls (and sprawl outside the windows), and the furniture is fit for a Mexican ranch. Checking into Room 6, I found an acoustic guitar hanging on the wall, waiting to be strummed around the firepit, just outside. No TVs, but there is Wi-Fi.
The scene: Most of the grown-up action in Pioneertown revolves around Pappy & Harriet’s, a storied roadside music venue, watering hole and barbecue joint. (It closes on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.) On Mane Street (yes, that’s how they spell it), families can stroll past the old-fashioned storefronts, browse a few gift shops and galleries, pause at the petting zoo or peek at the posters and looping video in the modest Pioneertown Film Museum. The boulders and trails of Joshua Tree National Park are 17 miles to the east, and the less busy, almost-as-scenic boulders and trails of Pioneertown Mountains Preserve begin 2.6 miles west on Pioneertown Road at the preserve’s Sawtooth Mountain Trailhead. (Dogs are forbidden from trails in the park but allowed, on leash, on trails in the preserve.)
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at $275 plus taxes, weekdays at $250. Dogs OK, for a fee.
Now: Brothers Mike and Matt French own the motel as well as the Red Dog Saloon down the block. Metal keys open the weathered wooden guest room doors. Western landscapes decorate the walls (and sprawl outside the windows), and the furniture is fit for a Mexican ranch. Checking into Room 6, I found an acoustic guitar hanging on the wall, waiting to be strummed around the firepit, just outside. No TVs, but there is Wi-Fi.
The scene: Most of the grown-up action in Pioneertown revolves around Pappy & Harriet’s, a storied roadside music venue, watering hole and barbecue joint. (It closes on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.) On Mane Street (yes, that’s how they spell it), families can stroll past the old-fashioned storefronts, browse a few gift shops and galleries, pause at the petting zoo or peek at the posters and looping video in the modest Pioneertown Film Museum. The boulders and trails of Joshua Tree National Park are 17 miles to the east, and the less busy, almost-as-scenic boulders and trails of Pioneertown Mountains Preserve begin 2.6 miles west on Pioneertown Road at the preserve’s Sawtooth Mountain Trailhead. (Dogs are forbidden from trails in the park but allowed, on leash, on trails in the preserve.)
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at $275 plus taxes, weekdays at $250. Dogs OK, for a fee.
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(David Fotus / For The Times)
Mojave Sands Motel
Hotel
Then: This place has come a long way since it went up in 1950. Look closely at the old paint on the original neon sign and you can just make out that it was once the Oleander Motel. Then, in the 2000s, came designer-builder Blake Simpson, who spent nearly 10 years reinventing the place as the Mojave Sands Motel, an eccentric oasis with notes of Asian calm and industrial minimalism. Simpson died in 2021, but his vision endures. Susan Burnett, manager and co-owner of the motel since 2013, said she once counted 45 bird species on the koi pond within 90 minutes.
Now: There are just three rooms and two suites, all facing the pond, along with a raked-sand courtyard with assorted cactus, succulents, lounging chairs and picnic tables. Inside, rooms feature olive-colored walls, quirky original artworks, exposed beams and bathrooms with metal barn doors. The suites have kitchenettes and there’s a shared barbecue. There’s no pool, restaurant or office. The property is surrounded by a six-foot metal privacy fence, so even though you’re next to the highway, it feels far away.
The scene: You’re half a mile from the commercial strip of Joshua Tree (which is only a few blocks long) and five miles from the national park’s west entrance (its busiest).
The tab: Spring rates start at $225 a night for rooms, $300 for suites (two-night minimum on weekends in spring, fall and winter).
Now: There are just three rooms and two suites, all facing the pond, along with a raked-sand courtyard with assorted cactus, succulents, lounging chairs and picnic tables. Inside, rooms feature olive-colored walls, quirky original artworks, exposed beams and bathrooms with metal barn doors. The suites have kitchenettes and there’s a shared barbecue. There’s no pool, restaurant or office. The property is surrounded by a six-foot metal privacy fence, so even though you’re next to the highway, it feels far away.
The scene: You’re half a mile from the commercial strip of Joshua Tree (which is only a few blocks long) and five miles from the national park’s west entrance (its busiest).
The tab: Spring rates start at $225 a night for rooms, $300 for suites (two-night minimum on weekends in spring, fall and winter).
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel
Hot Springs
Then: The three-pool, 20-room Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel, 70 miles southeast of downtown San Diego on the dusty road to Arizona, spent its first life as an early-1950s motel.
Now: Since reopening in early 2024, this hotel is outfitted with spa features, a restaurant, bar and global desert vibe. Designers Melissa Strukel and Corbin Winters pay homage to influences from Mexico to Morocco. Its pools include the large, outdoor Mineral Pool (usually 98 to 101 degrees, open to hotel guests and day-pass holders); and two more open to guests only: the cooler outdoor Solstice Pool (96 to 99 degrees) and the small, indoor Echo Room (102 degrees).
Besides its guest rooms, the hotel rents out several guest houses, including one rambling mountain cabin known as the Lodge. On weekends, in the candlelit ruins of an old bathhouse down the street, the resort stages live music. The hotel’s owners also have revived a small neighboring lake (open to the community) and planted palm trees.
All overnight guests must be at least 21; no pets permitted.
The scene: The hotel serves as a nerve center to the tiny town of Jacumba Hot Springs, which sits half a mile from the Mexican border, surrounded by high desert, hills and boulders.
The tab: Room rates typically start at around $400 a night on weekends, $238 on weeknights. A Mineral Pool day pass costs $35 to $45 per adult.
Now: Since reopening in early 2024, this hotel is outfitted with spa features, a restaurant, bar and global desert vibe. Designers Melissa Strukel and Corbin Winters pay homage to influences from Mexico to Morocco. Its pools include the large, outdoor Mineral Pool (usually 98 to 101 degrees, open to hotel guests and day-pass holders); and two more open to guests only: the cooler outdoor Solstice Pool (96 to 99 degrees) and the small, indoor Echo Room (102 degrees).
Besides its guest rooms, the hotel rents out several guest houses, including one rambling mountain cabin known as the Lodge. On weekends, in the candlelit ruins of an old bathhouse down the street, the resort stages live music. The hotel’s owners also have revived a small neighboring lake (open to the community) and planted palm trees.
All overnight guests must be at least 21; no pets permitted.
The scene: The hotel serves as a nerve center to the tiny town of Jacumba Hot Springs, which sits half a mile from the Mexican border, surrounded by high desert, hills and boulders.
The tab: Room rates typically start at around $400 a night on weekends, $238 on weeknights. A Mineral Pool day pass costs $35 to $45 per adult.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
The Hotel Wren
Twentynine Palms Hotel
Then: The Circle C Lodge went up in the 1940s and followed a tried-and-true formula: 12 rooms in cinder-block buildings bracketing a central pool. But the building was positioned well on a gentle slope, giving anyone around that pool a terrific view of the boulder-studded mountains to the south.
Now: I never stayed at the Circle C, so I can’t say if it was a sow’s ear, but it’s a silk purse now — and it opened in March, renamed Hotel Wren. The L.A.-based Manola Design Studio’s reboot of the property, a roughly nine-year project, adds full-blown elegance and takes great advantage of a great location. Beneath the red-tile roof, room interiors are large (450 square feet) and feature cherry wood furniture designed by Manola design chief Jessica Pell (and milled in Joshua Tree). Pell kept the buildings’ original casement windows, pitched ceilings and kitchenettes, and surrounded the courtyard pool with olive trees, rosemary, palo verde and palms.
“My background is in architectural preservation and I just loved the Americana feel of it,” Pell said.
Every room has a kitchenette (with two-burner induction stovetop) and a private patio with fireplace (where parking spaces used to be). The pool is saltwater, with hot tub. In the former drive-up motel office, you find the Windsong shop, a “curated bodega.” Also, the toilet paper is embossed with the hotel’s initials, HW.
The scene: The hotel has a quiet perch a block off Highway 62 at the west end of Twentynine Palms. The national park’s north entrance is six miles away, and the village of Joshua Tree is about 13 miles to the west.
The tab: Spring rates start around $412 for weekends, $344 for weekdays. Light breakfast included. Free parking. At least to start, the hotel is adults only. Pets OK for a fee.
Now: I never stayed at the Circle C, so I can’t say if it was a sow’s ear, but it’s a silk purse now — and it opened in March, renamed Hotel Wren. The L.A.-based Manola Design Studio’s reboot of the property, a roughly nine-year project, adds full-blown elegance and takes great advantage of a great location. Beneath the red-tile roof, room interiors are large (450 square feet) and feature cherry wood furniture designed by Manola design chief Jessica Pell (and milled in Joshua Tree). Pell kept the buildings’ original casement windows, pitched ceilings and kitchenettes, and surrounded the courtyard pool with olive trees, rosemary, palo verde and palms.
“My background is in architectural preservation and I just loved the Americana feel of it,” Pell said.
Every room has a kitchenette (with two-burner induction stovetop) and a private patio with fireplace (where parking spaces used to be). The pool is saltwater, with hot tub. In the former drive-up motel office, you find the Windsong shop, a “curated bodega.” Also, the toilet paper is embossed with the hotel’s initials, HW.
The scene: The hotel has a quiet perch a block off Highway 62 at the west end of Twentynine Palms. The national park’s north entrance is six miles away, and the village of Joshua Tree is about 13 miles to the west.
The tab: Spring rates start around $412 for weekends, $344 for weekdays. Light breakfast included. Free parking. At least to start, the hotel is adults only. Pets OK for a fee.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Ramsey 29
Twentynine Palms Hotel
Then: In 1946, when jackrabbits and homesteading World War II veterans dominated the dry, remote open spaces of the Morongo Basin, the Mesquite Motel went up along the main highway in Twentynine Palms. By 1962, it was called La Hacienda and had a tall, yellow, utterly utilitarian sign (and a little, rectangular pool). Later it became the Motel 29 Palms, the Sunset Motel and the Mojave Trails Inn. In 2019, owner Ashton Ramsey said, he bought it for $350,000 and dubbed it Ramsey 29.
Now: The old yellow sign hangs out front. But Ramsey turned L.A.-based Kristen Schultz and her firm K/L DESIGN loose to take these 10 rooms in a desert-eclectic direction.
Furniture is hand-built, brick walls are whitewashed and coat hangers carry their own clever slogans. Headboards are upcycled from Italian military stretchers, canvas armchairs bear the words “soiled clothes large” and the new tiles on the bathroom floor say “29,” as do custom blankets and other items. The floors are concrete. Room 9, closest to the highway, now has triple-paned windows. Six rooms opened in 2020, the remaining four in 2024. Guests check themselves in digitally.
Ramsey plans changes around the pool next, including more palm trees. But he’s not shying away from the word motel.
“I’ve leaned into that,” Ramsey said. “You’ve got to be proud of what you are.” In fact, he said, “We didn’t just renovate a motel. We’re trying to renovate a town. If we don’t brag on 29, nobody else will.”
The scene: Despite having its own entrance to Joshua Tree National Park and the time-honored 29 Palms Inn, Twentynine Palms has long been sleepy. But now a bunch of youthful, independent businesses have taken root and several are tenants to Ramsey, who also owns the motel-adjacent compound that locals call Tin Town. Its centerpiece is chef Everton Gordon’s Kitchen in the Desert, which has a sprawling patio and a menu full of Caribbean accents. (Try the salmon toast.) Shops include Desert General Store (a boutique with books and art), Ghost Town Ranch and Nxwhere California.
The tab: Spring rates typically start at $185 a night on weekends (plus taxes), $116 on weekdays. Free parking. Pets OK for a fee. (The hotel website routes bookings through Airbnb.)
Now: The old yellow sign hangs out front. But Ramsey turned L.A.-based Kristen Schultz and her firm K/L DESIGN loose to take these 10 rooms in a desert-eclectic direction.
Furniture is hand-built, brick walls are whitewashed and coat hangers carry their own clever slogans. Headboards are upcycled from Italian military stretchers, canvas armchairs bear the words “soiled clothes large” and the new tiles on the bathroom floor say “29,” as do custom blankets and other items. The floors are concrete. Room 9, closest to the highway, now has triple-paned windows. Six rooms opened in 2020, the remaining four in 2024. Guests check themselves in digitally.
Ramsey plans changes around the pool next, including more palm trees. But he’s not shying away from the word motel.
“I’ve leaned into that,” Ramsey said. “You’ve got to be proud of what you are.” In fact, he said, “We didn’t just renovate a motel. We’re trying to renovate a town. If we don’t brag on 29, nobody else will.”
The scene: Despite having its own entrance to Joshua Tree National Park and the time-honored 29 Palms Inn, Twentynine Palms has long been sleepy. But now a bunch of youthful, independent businesses have taken root and several are tenants to Ramsey, who also owns the motel-adjacent compound that locals call Tin Town. Its centerpiece is chef Everton Gordon’s Kitchen in the Desert, which has a sprawling patio and a menu full of Caribbean accents. (Try the salmon toast.) Shops include Desert General Store (a boutique with books and art), Ghost Town Ranch and Nxwhere California.
The tab: Spring rates typically start at $185 a night on weekends (plus taxes), $116 on weekdays. Free parking. Pets OK for a fee. (The hotel website routes bookings through Airbnb.)
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Phoenix Hotel
San Francisco Hotel
Then: Before the Phoenix rose from the ashes of San Francisco’s gritty Tenderloin neighborhood, it was the Caravan Lodge, a two-story rectangle of 44 rooms, surrounding an oval pool, all built in 1956. By 1987, it was in rough shape (as was the Tenderloin generally). But that’s when entrepreneur Chip Conley recast it as a haven for touring rock stars, musicians and fans (with a trendy restaurant-bar on site). One night, “We did have a circus stay here, and a bear stayed in a room, because we are a pet-friendly hotel,” said Alex Pedlar, working the front desk one recent day.
Now: The Phoenix endures, a bit frayed around the edges, suitable for urban adventurers, probably not for kids. As of mid-March, its restaurant, Chambers, was only open for special events. There’s a turntable in the lobby, a supply of lollipops on the counter and an enormous vinyl collection in the bar. The pool, surrounded by butterfly chairs, features artist Francis Forlenza’s mesmerizing mural “My Fifteen Minutes/Tumbling Waves.”
The hotel is part of the hipster-friendly Bunkhouse hotel group, but the Phoenix’s future depends most on Michel Suas, a celebrated Bay Area pastry chef who bought the property in August 2024.
The scene: As the Phoenix website admits, the Tenderloin is “not for the faint of heart.” It remains one of the most troubled neighborhoods in the city, yet only a mile from Union Square. But once you’re within the confines of the hotel, “it’s a lot quieter, a lot cleaner, more peaceful,” said Pedlar.
The tab: Spring weekends start at $159-$179. Weekdays are comparable. Parking is $25, and you do not want to try parking on the street.
Now: The Phoenix endures, a bit frayed around the edges, suitable for urban adventurers, probably not for kids. As of mid-March, its restaurant, Chambers, was only open for special events. There’s a turntable in the lobby, a supply of lollipops on the counter and an enormous vinyl collection in the bar. The pool, surrounded by butterfly chairs, features artist Francis Forlenza’s mesmerizing mural “My Fifteen Minutes/Tumbling Waves.”
The hotel is part of the hipster-friendly Bunkhouse hotel group, but the Phoenix’s future depends most on Michel Suas, a celebrated Bay Area pastry chef who bought the property in August 2024.
The scene: As the Phoenix website admits, the Tenderloin is “not for the faint of heart.” It remains one of the most troubled neighborhoods in the city, yet only a mile from Union Square. But once you’re within the confines of the hotel, “it’s a lot quieter, a lot cleaner, more peaceful,” said Pedlar.
The tab: Spring weekends start at $159-$179. Weekdays are comparable. Parking is $25, and you do not want to try parking on the street.
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(Megan Bayley / For The Times)
Beck's Motor Lodge
San Francisco Hotel
Then: When Bill and Frances Beck opened their motor lodge in 1958, the nightly rate was $5 and the neighborhood, often known as Eureka Valley, was working-class Irish. A postcard from around 1960 shows the U-shaped, three-level Beck’s with bright green railings, a sundeck over the office, a handful of now-vintage vehicles in the lot below and a red-and-yellow sign that you wouldn’t miss, even on a foggy night.
Now: This place still carries its original name, but the walls are blue (with orange piping) and the neighborhood is now better known as the Castro (and it’s gayer). The Becks’ granddaughter Brittney Beck is owner and general manager; she oversaw a renovation in 2023-24. Beck’s has 58 rooms and free parking.
There’s still no pool, and visitors must buzz to enter the front office (a common measure in San Francisco these days). But the guest rooms feel fresh and well-kept. Room 215 has one orange chair for a pop of color and a pair of plastic-wrapped earplugs in case the street noise gets too loud (it didn’t for me). The bathroom has a farmhouse sink, and the shower has a rain-style nozzle overhead, newish tile work and a space-saving pocket door. Rooms start at a compact 220 square feet.
One more thing: Beck’s keeps a honeybee hive on the roof to help support the faltering honeybee population worldwide. (I wish they sold honey in the office, but they don’t.)
The scene: You’re in the Castro, the increasingly upscale and most famously gay neighborhood west of the Hudson River. You’re also three miles up Market Street from Union Square and four miles from the Embarcadero and the Ferry Building. There’s a great breakfast-and-lunch restaurant two blocks away: the Wooden Spoon, on the ground floor of the historic Swedish American Hall building.
The tab: Spring weekend rates often start at $179, weekdays often $159. The free parking here is a rare commodity in the city.
Now: This place still carries its original name, but the walls are blue (with orange piping) and the neighborhood is now better known as the Castro (and it’s gayer). The Becks’ granddaughter Brittney Beck is owner and general manager; she oversaw a renovation in 2023-24. Beck’s has 58 rooms and free parking.
There’s still no pool, and visitors must buzz to enter the front office (a common measure in San Francisco these days). But the guest rooms feel fresh and well-kept. Room 215 has one orange chair for a pop of color and a pair of plastic-wrapped earplugs in case the street noise gets too loud (it didn’t for me). The bathroom has a farmhouse sink, and the shower has a rain-style nozzle overhead, newish tile work and a space-saving pocket door. Rooms start at a compact 220 square feet.
One more thing: Beck’s keeps a honeybee hive on the roof to help support the faltering honeybee population worldwide. (I wish they sold honey in the office, but they don’t.)
The scene: You’re in the Castro, the increasingly upscale and most famously gay neighborhood west of the Hudson River. You’re also three miles up Market Street from Union Square and four miles from the Embarcadero and the Ferry Building. There’s a great breakfast-and-lunch restaurant two blocks away: the Wooden Spoon, on the ground floor of the historic Swedish American Hall building.
The tab: Spring weekend rates often start at $179, weekdays often $159. The free parking here is a rare commodity in the city.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
The Skylark
Riverside Hotel
Then: In 1955 the building went up with 28 rooms on two levels, all wrapped around a big pool (and diving board) with mountain views. Palm Springs architect Howard Lapham designed it. According to local lore, owner and jazz expert George Simon named it “Skylark” for a song by Johnny Mercer and Hoagy Carmichael. Later, the place evolved into a clothing-optional resort called Camp Palm Springs. A decade ago, a previous owner set about bringing back the ’50s feel (and the mandatory clothing).
Now: After another sale, renovation and reopening in 2024, the hotel is outfitted in baby blue and bright white with a grown-up vibe (though children are allowed). Guests check in at an Airstream trailer and can dine at the on-site Lost Property restaurant. There are bikes to borrow. The pool’s diving board is long gone, but the designers hired by owner Amitesh Damudar (who also owns the Tangerine in Burbank) have seized every Midcentury Modern accent opportunity. Did some of this art hang in the Jetsons’ home? It feels that way.
The scene: You’re right on Palm Canyon Drive, the main downtown artery where a weekly Village Fest brings out about 180 vendors every Thursday. During the event, which runs from 6 to 10 p.m. October through May and 7 to 10 p.m. in summer, the road is closed to cars for three blocks.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at about $269 a night, weekdays at $199. Resort fee $25. Free parking.
Now: After another sale, renovation and reopening in 2024, the hotel is outfitted in baby blue and bright white with a grown-up vibe (though children are allowed). Guests check in at an Airstream trailer and can dine at the on-site Lost Property restaurant. There are bikes to borrow. The pool’s diving board is long gone, but the designers hired by owner Amitesh Damudar (who also owns the Tangerine in Burbank) have seized every Midcentury Modern accent opportunity. Did some of this art hang in the Jetsons’ home? It feels that way.
The scene: You’re right on Palm Canyon Drive, the main downtown artery where a weekly Village Fest brings out about 180 vendors every Thursday. During the event, which runs from 6 to 10 p.m. October through May and 7 to 10 p.m. in summer, the road is closed to cars for three blocks.
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at about $269 a night, weekdays at $199. Resort fee $25. Free parking.
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(David Fotus / For The Times)
Trixie Motel
Riverside Hotel
Then: Built in 1952 (apparently as a vacation getaway for the L.A. Rams), the motel once known as the Coral Sands Inn has always been a snug, intimate space. There were a few tall palms and a curvy pool surrounded by six guest units and an owner’s suite. Then, in about 2000, came the property’s second life. That’s when a Seattle thrift queen and kitschmonger moved south to take over and reinvent the place as Ruby Montana’s Coral Sands Inn, the rooms bursting with tchotchkes, the exterior notably pink. Ruby reigned for 20 years.
Now: When Ruby stepped out, in stepped Trixie Mattel — a drag queen star on “RuPaul’s Drag Race” — and partner David Silver. Team Trixie (including interior designer Dani Dazey) bought the motel, renovated and reopened it— all while shooting a “Trixie Motel” reality TV series. Open since 2022, it’s pinker than ever. The owner’s quarters is one of four suites that are now rentable, along with three rooms. Each unit has its own theme, with matching wallpaper, curtains and bed linens, all custom. Turntables, yes; televisions, no. The Honeymoon Suite is a riot of orange and yellow; the Atomic Bombshell Room (the most requested), very blue. The shop features pieces from Trixie’s vintage Barbie collection.
Besides fans of Trixie Mattel and RuPaul, assistant manager Joseph Martinez told me, the motel attracts Barbie collectors and “teenagers who drag their parents here to the gift shop. That’s all they can see, because the resort is 21 and up.”
The Barbara Bar is open to guests and visitors. The whole property is colorful (and queer) enough to make the Madonna Inn look like Beaver Cleaver’s neighborhood, its pervasive pink notwithstanding.
The scene: The motel is in the city’s Old Las Palmas neighborhood, 1.4 miles from the “Forever Marilyn” statue, five miles from the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.
The tab: Spring rates begin at $345 a night, weekends and weekdays. Prices dip in summer.
Now: When Ruby stepped out, in stepped Trixie Mattel — a drag queen star on “RuPaul’s Drag Race” — and partner David Silver. Team Trixie (including interior designer Dani Dazey) bought the motel, renovated and reopened it— all while shooting a “Trixie Motel” reality TV series. Open since 2022, it’s pinker than ever. The owner’s quarters is one of four suites that are now rentable, along with three rooms. Each unit has its own theme, with matching wallpaper, curtains and bed linens, all custom. Turntables, yes; televisions, no. The Honeymoon Suite is a riot of orange and yellow; the Atomic Bombshell Room (the most requested), very blue. The shop features pieces from Trixie’s vintage Barbie collection.
Besides fans of Trixie Mattel and RuPaul, assistant manager Joseph Martinez told me, the motel attracts Barbie collectors and “teenagers who drag their parents here to the gift shop. That’s all they can see, because the resort is 21 and up.”
The Barbara Bar is open to guests and visitors. The whole property is colorful (and queer) enough to make the Madonna Inn look like Beaver Cleaver’s neighborhood, its pervasive pink notwithstanding.
The scene: The motel is in the city’s Old Las Palmas neighborhood, 1.4 miles from the “Forever Marilyn” statue, five miles from the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.
The tab: Spring rates begin at $345 a night, weekends and weekdays. Prices dip in summer.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Caliente Tropics Hotel
Riverside Hotel
Then: You have to love a desert motel that pretends to be tropical. This one opened in 1964 with a neo-tiki-hut façade, big (65-foot-long) pool and Polynesian trimmings, one of five island-themed resorts built in California by developer Ken Kimes. It had a steakhouse, coffee shop and tiki bar, of course. For years, it was a celebrity hangout. But by the ’80s it had gone south — “broken furniture, holes in walls, unruly behavior, illegal activity, and numerous visits courtesy of the Palm Springs Police,” the hotel’s own website says. By the 2000s, it had been a Hyatt Lodge, a Best Western, a Days Inn, a Rodeway Inn and, many said, an unaffiliated mess. When I asked manager Jose Rodriguez the weirdest rumor he’d heard about the old days, he didn’t hesitate. “That Jimmy Hoffa is buried under the restaurant,” he said.
Now: In 2014, a new owner stepped in and made improvements. The big pool remains, surrounded by 92 guest rooms (16 of them suites), the Reef tiki bar and Sanchos, a Mexican restaurant. (Another bar on site closed last year.) It’s not a pristine midcentury sort of place, nor would I book a romantic weekend there, but it welcomes families, which many smaller Palm Springs places don’t do. Also, you’ll hear the chirps of live finches in the lobby. Also worth noting: The hotel was recently listed for sale.
The scene: The hotel sits at the south end of Palm Springs, not far from Tahquitz Canyon.
The tab: Spring room rates start at $249 on weekends, $219 on weekdays.
Now: In 2014, a new owner stepped in and made improvements. The big pool remains, surrounded by 92 guest rooms (16 of them suites), the Reef tiki bar and Sanchos, a Mexican restaurant. (Another bar on site closed last year.) It’s not a pristine midcentury sort of place, nor would I book a romantic weekend there, but it welcomes families, which many smaller Palm Springs places don’t do. Also, you’ll hear the chirps of live finches in the lobby. Also worth noting: The hotel was recently listed for sale.
The scene: The hotel sits at the south end of Palm Springs, not far from Tahquitz Canyon.
The tab: Spring room rates start at $249 on weekends, $219 on weekdays.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Motel Capri
San Francisco Hotel
Then: The Motel Capri went up in 1957 — a year before the Giants moved to the West Coast — and it’s one among many midcentury motels near the straight, seldom-celebrated stretch of San Francisco’s Lombard Street.
Now: How has nobody dressed this place up and doubled prices? This three-level, 44-room lodging is a quiet standout. Beyond its bold, nostalgic sign and Midcentury Modern design, staffers say it’s been sporting the same brown-green-yellow exterior color scheme for decades. In guest bathrooms you‘ll find vintage tilework in hues of green, peach and oatmeal. Some rooms have exposed-beam ceilings, but don’t look for memorable furniture. There’s no pool, no restaurant, no frills. And the owners are not afraid to call it a motel.
The scene: You’re a block away from the heavy traffic on Lombard (and less than a mile from the crooked part) and a few blocks from the shops and restaurants of Union Street. You’re less than two miles from Fisherman’s Wharf and about three miles from Golden Gate Park.
The tab: Rooms start at about $185 on spring weekends, about $110 on slow nights. Free parking.
Now: How has nobody dressed this place up and doubled prices? This three-level, 44-room lodging is a quiet standout. Beyond its bold, nostalgic sign and Midcentury Modern design, staffers say it’s been sporting the same brown-green-yellow exterior color scheme for decades. In guest bathrooms you‘ll find vintage tilework in hues of green, peach and oatmeal. Some rooms have exposed-beam ceilings, but don’t look for memorable furniture. There’s no pool, no restaurant, no frills. And the owners are not afraid to call it a motel.
The scene: You’re a block away from the heavy traffic on Lombard (and less than a mile from the crooked part) and a few blocks from the shops and restaurants of Union Street. You’re less than two miles from Fisherman’s Wharf and about three miles from Golden Gate Park.
The tab: Rooms start at about $185 on spring weekends, about $110 on slow nights. Free parking.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Peach Tree Inn
San Luis Obispo Hotel
Then: “I believe it was about 1954 when it opened,” said Shawn Harper, whose family has owned the hotel since her father bought it in 1986. In its early years, it was called the Town and Country Motel and featured a big, bold, yellow and orange sign to distinguish it from others along San Luis Obispo’s Monterey Street motel row.
Now: The hotel added a creekside building at the rear of the property (rooms there are quieter) and converted two guest rooms into a breakfast area, where guests can partake in the continental breakfast, which is included. The 39-room lodging has no resort fees, no restaurant, smallish bathrooms and free parking. “We’re not fancy. We’re two-star,” Harper said. “I really enjoy the uniqueness of it, the old-school-ness of it. ... You can park right in front of your room. You don’t have anyone above you. ... You can see the rolling hills and mountains.” Over the years, buyers have expressed interest in the property. “They want to level it and turn it into a Marriott,” she said. (She turns them away.) There’s no effort to be stylish or nostalgic here. It’s all about cleanliness and comfort within the limits of frugality. Pets are OK, but call first.
The scene: You’re less than a mile from the Cal Poly SLO campus and less than 2 miles from downtown SLO, including the shops and restaurants of Higuera Street.
The tab: Weekend rates (two-night minimum) usually begin at $134 per night. Weekday rates get as low as $79.
Now: The hotel added a creekside building at the rear of the property (rooms there are quieter) and converted two guest rooms into a breakfast area, where guests can partake in the continental breakfast, which is included. The 39-room lodging has no resort fees, no restaurant, smallish bathrooms and free parking. “We’re not fancy. We’re two-star,” Harper said. “I really enjoy the uniqueness of it, the old-school-ness of it. ... You can park right in front of your room. You don’t have anyone above you. ... You can see the rolling hills and mountains.” Over the years, buyers have expressed interest in the property. “They want to level it and turn it into a Marriott,” she said. (She turns them away.) There’s no effort to be stylish or nostalgic here. It’s all about cleanliness and comfort within the limits of frugality. Pets are OK, but call first.
The scene: You’re less than a mile from the Cal Poly SLO campus and less than 2 miles from downtown SLO, including the shops and restaurants of Higuera Street.
The tab: Weekend rates (two-night minimum) usually begin at $134 per night. Weekday rates get as low as $79.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Candy Cane Inn
Anaheim Hotel
Then: The Candy Cane Motel opened in 1957, just two years after Disneyland next door. The Candy Cane, which forms a big U with a little pool in the middle, is the only lodging on the Disneyland side of Harbor Boulevard. In 1982, rates were $30 a night.
Now: The same family, the Kazarians, still owns it, but the ’50s look (including a few Mediterranean rock walls and the vintage sign with candy canes crossed like swords on a family coat of arms) are gone. Also gone: the word “motel.” Since a renovation and reopening in 2022, the inn’s 171 rooms, greenery, pool, hot tub, lobby and fountain aim to deliver a contemporary, family-friendly vibe. That means lots of beige in guest rooms and suites. The generic design might remind you of Hilton/Hyatt/Marriott, et al., but for a family seeking an easy location, this is the promised land. And there’s a good chance you’ll find edible candy canes at the front desk.
The inn is two stories, no elevator. Parking and an expanded continental breakfast are included in rates. So is shuttle bus service to and from the theme park, even though it’s only two-thirds of a mile from the park entrance. No pets.
The scene: Did we mention Disneyland?
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at around $300 a night plus taxes; weekdays are comparable. No resort fees.
Now: The same family, the Kazarians, still owns it, but the ’50s look (including a few Mediterranean rock walls and the vintage sign with candy canes crossed like swords on a family coat of arms) are gone. Also gone: the word “motel.” Since a renovation and reopening in 2022, the inn’s 171 rooms, greenery, pool, hot tub, lobby and fountain aim to deliver a contemporary, family-friendly vibe. That means lots of beige in guest rooms and suites. The generic design might remind you of Hilton/Hyatt/Marriott, et al., but for a family seeking an easy location, this is the promised land. And there’s a good chance you’ll find edible candy canes at the front desk.
The inn is two stories, no elevator. Parking and an expanded continental breakfast are included in rates. So is shuttle bus service to and from the theme park, even though it’s only two-thirds of a mile from the park entrance. No pets.
The scene: Did we mention Disneyland?
The tab: Spring weekend rates start at around $300 a night plus taxes; weekdays are comparable. No resort fees.
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(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
Beachcomber Inn
San Clemente Hotel
Then: The Beachcomber — probably the best-located property on this list — went up in about 1953. For at least a while, its units served as apartments, the office flanked by seven units on one side, six on the other. All 13 face a well-tended grassy slope that looks down on the train tracks, the San Clemente Pier and the Pacific. The walls are stucco and the roof is all red tiles, of course, because Spanish Colonial Revival is very big in this town.
How could such a modest, low-rise enterprise survive on such a prime property? We have the tenacity of neighbors to thank. The inn might be the oldest continuously operated business in town. In the 1990s and again in the 2000s, local leaders thwarted proposals to build high-rise resorts on the property.
Now: All 13 units have kitchens, unfussy tile floors and little patios in which a pair of blue wooden chairs face the sea. (A few units are suites.) There are several picnic tables and a few barbecue grills for guests to share. Unlike many lodgings that limit rooms to two people, the Beachcomber allows four to six people, depending on the unit. (There are sofabeds.)
The owners say on their website that “the property has not been substantially updated, to maintain its charm and character. The rooms are small and do not meet modern standards for accessibility.” Still, those I saw were clean and inviting. And I could spend hours in one of those blue patio chairs. No pool or restaurant.
The scene: In the neighborhood locals call the Pier Bowl, you have the pier and beach below, with the Fisherman’s restaurant at the base of the pier and the organic snacks and smoothies of the West Toast Cafe at T-Street Beach to the south. Amtrak trains roar through now and then. It’s a brisk uphill climb (or a short drive) to the many restaurants and shops lining Avenida Del Mar.
The tab: Room rates in spring start at $360 for weekdays, $420 for weekends, rising in summer. (The two-bedroom suite known as La Casita is pricier.) Rooms often book up months ahead, especially in summer. Parking is free. Prices might seem steep for such basic furnishings, but location, location, location. And kitchens.
How could such a modest, low-rise enterprise survive on such a prime property? We have the tenacity of neighbors to thank. The inn might be the oldest continuously operated business in town. In the 1990s and again in the 2000s, local leaders thwarted proposals to build high-rise resorts on the property.
Now: All 13 units have kitchens, unfussy tile floors and little patios in which a pair of blue wooden chairs face the sea. (A few units are suites.) There are several picnic tables and a few barbecue grills for guests to share. Unlike many lodgings that limit rooms to two people, the Beachcomber allows four to six people, depending on the unit. (There are sofabeds.)
The owners say on their website that “the property has not been substantially updated, to maintain its charm and character. The rooms are small and do not meet modern standards for accessibility.” Still, those I saw were clean and inviting. And I could spend hours in one of those blue patio chairs. No pool or restaurant.
The scene: In the neighborhood locals call the Pier Bowl, you have the pier and beach below, with the Fisherman’s restaurant at the base of the pier and the organic snacks and smoothies of the West Toast Cafe at T-Street Beach to the south. Amtrak trains roar through now and then. It’s a brisk uphill climb (or a short drive) to the many restaurants and shops lining Avenida Del Mar.
The tab: Room rates in spring start at $360 for weekdays, $420 for weekends, rising in summer. (The two-bedroom suite known as La Casita is pricier.) Rooms often book up months ahead, especially in summer. Parking is free. Prices might seem steep for such basic furnishings, but location, location, location. And kitchens.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Melody Ranch Motel
Paso Robles Hotel
Then: This is a 1950s motel, run by the Fritschle family since about 1960. From the start, it has had 19 rooms and a prime spot on Spring Street, the main artery of Paso Robles.
Now: Little has changed beneath the tall oak tree at the corner of the property. The bathrooms are snug. In every room, a Gideon Bible is close at hand. There’s no website. In the ’60s, the Fritschles added a pool, which is usually open May through September. A year ago, they finally replaced their box TVs with flatscreens. Otherwise, if it isn’t broken, the Fritschles don’t fix it.
The motel “is almost like a person to me,” said Frank Fritschle, 67, who owns the property with his two sisters. The three took over after his father’s death in 1980 and Frank still lives right behind the motel.
“It’s not just a business to me, it’s a home,” he said. “This is the only thing I’ve ever done, work at the motel.”
The family is counting on the next generation — Fritschle’s four nieces and nephews — to take over eventually.
“We’re always behind the curve, never cutting-edge. It seems to work for us,” said Fritschle.
What about the many nearby lodgings that have boosted their amenities and prices? “I think they actually help our business. We have people who don’t want to pay those prices who stay with us,” he said.
The scene: The motel stands a block from Downtown City Park, which is surrounded by shops, restaurants and tasting rooms.
The tab: Rates typically run $100 to $200 nightly. Parking is free. Most reservations are taken by phone, in person or through Expedia.
Now: Little has changed beneath the tall oak tree at the corner of the property. The bathrooms are snug. In every room, a Gideon Bible is close at hand. There’s no website. In the ’60s, the Fritschles added a pool, which is usually open May through September. A year ago, they finally replaced their box TVs with flatscreens. Otherwise, if it isn’t broken, the Fritschles don’t fix it.
The motel “is almost like a person to me,” said Frank Fritschle, 67, who owns the property with his two sisters. The three took over after his father’s death in 1980 and Frank still lives right behind the motel.
“It’s not just a business to me, it’s a home,” he said. “This is the only thing I’ve ever done, work at the motel.”
The family is counting on the next generation — Fritschle’s four nieces and nephews — to take over eventually.
“We’re always behind the curve, never cutting-edge. It seems to work for us,” said Fritschle.
What about the many nearby lodgings that have boosted their amenities and prices? “I think they actually help our business. We have people who don’t want to pay those prices who stay with us,” he said.
The scene: The motel stands a block from Downtown City Park, which is surrounded by shops, restaurants and tasting rooms.
The tab: Rates typically run $100 to $200 nightly. Parking is free. Most reservations are taken by phone, in person or through Expedia.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Pantai Inn
San Diego Hotel
Then: First there was a gorgeous beach, with tide-smooth rock formations rising from the sand. Then, as La Jolla grew into a vacation haven in the early 20th century, there were beach shacks. By the 1950s, on beach-adjacent Coast Boulevard, the Heimburge family was running the Shell Beach Motel (a.k.a. Shell Beach Hotel and Shell Beach Inn), which had a nearly priceless location and no particular flair, midcentury or otherwise. Many units had kitchens. Some were managed as apartments.
Now: Since a dramatic renovation and renaming in 2011, the lodging has been known as the Pantai Inn. Its several buildings have been shaped into a vision of Balinese luxury with red-tile roofs and saffron-colored brick walls. Some of the 25 guest rooms and suites open to the outdoors, others to an interior hallway. Some have kitchenettes. Most have ocean views (Rooms 201 and 208 seem best), as do the two-level breakfast room and roof deck. Fountains burble. Wood carvings abound, as do painted murals of the Indonesian island of Bali. The hot breakfast buffet is included in nightly rates.
The scene: To the right, you’ll see the grassy expanses of Ellen Browning Scripps Park. To the left, the lolling, barking sea lions at the protected inlet known as the Children’s Pool.
The tab: Spring room rates typically start at $307 a night on weekends, $284 on weeknights, plus a $25 resort fee and taxes. Parking is $25 a night.
Now: Since a dramatic renovation and renaming in 2011, the lodging has been known as the Pantai Inn. Its several buildings have been shaped into a vision of Balinese luxury with red-tile roofs and saffron-colored brick walls. Some of the 25 guest rooms and suites open to the outdoors, others to an interior hallway. Some have kitchenettes. Most have ocean views (Rooms 201 and 208 seem best), as do the two-level breakfast room and roof deck. Fountains burble. Wood carvings abound, as do painted murals of the Indonesian island of Bali. The hot breakfast buffet is included in nightly rates.
The scene: To the right, you’ll see the grassy expanses of Ellen Browning Scripps Park. To the left, the lolling, barking sea lions at the protected inlet known as the Children’s Pool.
The tab: Spring room rates typically start at $307 a night on weekends, $284 on weeknights, plus a $25 resort fee and taxes. Parking is $25 a night.
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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)
Crystal Pier Hotel
San Diego Hotel
Then: This San Diego icon goes back to 1927 (when the wooden Pickering’s Pleasure Pier was built in Pacific Beach), and 1930 (when workers put the first cottages on the pier). The Crystal name came from a short-lived ballroom at the end of the pier. From the late 1930s to at least the late ’70s, the sign above the entrance said MOTEL. Then (and now) the pier cottages were the only ones of their kind on the California coast. Twenty-four of the units are Cape Cod-style cottages (studio, one-bedroom and two-bedroom) and six hotel suites are clustered in the office buildings flanking the base of the pier.
Now: The blue-and-white cottages, remarkably unchanged, have kitchenettes, private patios, flower boxes, Dutch doors and adjacent parking, right on the planks of the pier. Interiors feature wood floors and ceiling fans. The 870-foot pier itself, meanwhile, has been under repair. The city of San Diego closed a portion for storm-damage repairs in late 2023; it’s due to reopen this month. The Allen family has owned and managed the hotel since 1961, and takes reservations only by phone or in person. “It’s the personal experience,” said general manager Julie Neal. She estimates that half of their guests come back yearly and some are second-generation customers. Adds Neal: “You know who comes every year? Diane Keaton.”
The scene: Ocean Front Walk is San Diego’s answer to Venice — a lively concentration of people, bikes, restaurants, bars and beach culture, rowdier to the south, calmer to the north, calmest a few blocks inland, along the shoreline of Mission Bay. The hotel has no restaurant, but across the walkway stands Kono’s Surf Club Cafe, a breakfast-and-lunch fixture since the ’90s that often has a line outside. Once the pier repairs are done, the public can walk (and fish) on the pier from 7 a.m. to sunset. Until then, hotel guests have added privacy.
The tab: Nightly rates range from $225 (winter weekdays) to $655 (two-bedroom unit, summer weekends). Minimum stay of two nights in winter, three nights in summer, four nights over major holidays. No pets. Units often sell out six months ahead.
Now: The blue-and-white cottages, remarkably unchanged, have kitchenettes, private patios, flower boxes, Dutch doors and adjacent parking, right on the planks of the pier. Interiors feature wood floors and ceiling fans. The 870-foot pier itself, meanwhile, has been under repair. The city of San Diego closed a portion for storm-damage repairs in late 2023; it’s due to reopen this month. The Allen family has owned and managed the hotel since 1961, and takes reservations only by phone or in person. “It’s the personal experience,” said general manager Julie Neal. She estimates that half of their guests come back yearly and some are second-generation customers. Adds Neal: “You know who comes every year? Diane Keaton.”
The scene: Ocean Front Walk is San Diego’s answer to Venice — a lively concentration of people, bikes, restaurants, bars and beach culture, rowdier to the south, calmer to the north, calmest a few blocks inland, along the shoreline of Mission Bay. The hotel has no restaurant, but across the walkway stands Kono’s Surf Club Cafe, a breakfast-and-lunch fixture since the ’90s that often has a line outside. Once the pier repairs are done, the public can walk (and fish) on the pier from 7 a.m. to sunset. Until then, hotel guests have added privacy.
The tab: Nightly rates range from $225 (winter weekdays) to $655 (two-bedroom unit, summer weekends). Minimum stay of two nights in winter, three nights in summer, four nights over major holidays. No pets. Units often sell out six months ahead.
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