Roehm Sets Sights on Other Vistas

Designer Carolyne Roehm opens her aqua eyes very wide. “I haven’t heard that,” she says, after being told that some people believe her extraordinarily wealthy businessman husband, Henry Kravis, is the key to her success.

“I’ve worked very hard in the industry for many years,” says Roehm, a willowy brunette dressed in blue-green contact lenses over brown eyes; real gems, including two bejeweled ivory cuffs she bought for herself, and a socially correct dress from one of her past collections.

Born Carolyne Jane Smith almost 39 years ago in Kirksville, Mo., the designer worked with Oscar de la Renta for 10 years. During that time she married and divorced Axel Roehm, but kept his last name. Five years ago, she married Kravis, who recently pulled off the leveraged buyout of RJR Nabisco and is reportedly worth more than $330 million.

With Kravis’ financial help, Roehm launched her own company in 1984 and began living the life of many of her clients, that of a full-blown socialite with horses, jewels, a butler, a private jet and several splendid homes. Her glamorous home furnishings have been featured in her ads. And the campaign may have backfired a bit. In her sweet, energetic way, Roehm concedes: “I think I’ve gotten as many comments on the tassels as I have on the clothes.

“Henry didn’t hand me millions of dollars on a silver platter,” she says. “I don’t have unlimited money. In fact, quite the contrary. He’s a pretty tough taskmaster. He doesn’t look at Carolyne Roehm as a charity case.”

The New York-based company is “barely” making money, Roehm says. (Retail sales of $20 million were reported for 1989.) She maintains the only way to truly succeed is to branch out into licensed products.

Carolyne Roehm sunglasses and eye wear will arrive in stores this month. Developing the line has been fun, she says, because she wears glasses a lot. “I’m the type who has to grope in the morning to find my glasses before I can find my way to the bathroom.”