San Simeon Made Simple

Hearst Castle’s two-year-old visitor center features nine ticket windows, a snack bar and a souvenir store that sells everything imaginable about the castle (and a few things that aren’t), plus an exhibition hall where a fine, concise history of both the castle and its builder are given.

Tours: The castle is open every day except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Tours, which last 1 3/4 hours each, leave roughly every 10 minutes from 8:20 a.m. to 3 p.m. during winter, more often during summer. Cost per tour is $10 for adults, $5 for children 6 through 12. Buying tickets in advance is recommended, and can be done via credit card by calling Mistix at (619) 452-1950 or toll-free (800) 444-7275 (within California).

Getting there: From either San Francisco or Los Angeles, it involves a fair amount of driving--anywhere from 4 1/2 to 6 hours, depending on traffic. One alternative is to take the train.

Princess Railtours has daily service between Los Angeles and San Luis Obispo, with an overnight stay, three meals and castle tour No. 1 for $299.

Trains leave Los Angeles at 9:55 a.m. and arrive back the next day at 7:30 p.m. For more information, call (800) 835-8907.

Where to stay/dine: A large hotel and motel culture has grown up in nearby Cambria.

The most charming place is a bed and breakfast called the J. Patrick House, an oversize log cabin that does without TVs, radios and telephones and boasts a wood-burning fireplace in every room.

It’s at 2990 Burton Drive, Cambria; telephone (805) 927-3812.

The best restaurant is Ian’s, an elegant place with exceptional California-style cuisine at 2150 Center St., Cambria; telephone (805) 927-8649.

The best introduction to the man who built the castle is still W. A. Swanberg’s magisterial “Citizen Hearst.”