Benziger’s Double Honors

AT THE RECENT prestigious National Orange Show wine competition, one winery, Benziger of Glen Ellen, scored an unprecedented double Best of Show.

After a blind tasting of the 20 Best of Class contenders (out of 1,051 entries), the 32 judges agreed that Benziger’s Merlot and a Meritage blend were exemplary.

Benziger Estate 1987 Sonoma Valley Merlot ($15) is 100% Merlot, although it is a blending of five lots. It’s an easily accessible wine with charming complexity and rich berry tastes. Wholly delightful.

Benziger Estate 1987 Sonoma Mountain Meritage ($22) is a blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc. This proprietary blend draws flowery bouquet and softness from the Merlot, varietal identity from the Cabernet Sauvignon and power from the Cabernet Franc. It has a harmonious claret character.

The Best of Shows exemplify Benziger’s viticultural progress with its estate wines. During the past decade, the small Glen Ellen Sonoma winery, through its “Proprietor’s Reserve” wines--popular varietals that cost less than $5--has become one of the state’s largest wine producers. “We make wine by committee,” chief viticulturist Glen Proctor told me recently as we walked through the vineyard knolls of the 100-acre estate. He pointed out the different trellising systems, including one that opens some vines to more air and sunlight. “We call it ‘farming for flavor,’ with site-specific methods for each variety. Sunlight becomes particularly significant with Sauvignon Blanc, to get more of those fruity, melonlike tastes, rather than any herbal or grassy scents. For Cabernet Sauvignon, to accent cherry, cassis or blackberry tastes instead of bell pepper tastes or pruny undertones, we need filtered shade so the clusters don’t get too much sun. These are all cultural decisions we make together with our wine-making team.”

And what results they’ve produced.