FOOD STYLES : Fresh Way to Prepare Halibut : Seasonal ingredients add special zest to a quick and simple seafood recipe.

This year I found myself on my birthday without any members of my family nearby. My husband was at his new job in another state, my son was away at college and I was home giving cooking classes.

Good friends who knew of my plight suggested that we get a group together and have dinner at their house. The hosts were willing to prepare the entire meal, but since the list of invitees included some talented cooks, I proposed that we all share the kitchen work. The event was to be informal, and so several days before the celebration the menu was still undecided. The hosts and I agreed that we would look in local markets for fresh, seasonal ingredients and then create the night’s dishes from our grocery selections.

The shopping foray was a success. We bought beautiful halibut steaks, some smoked chicken, several bunches of mint and dill, spring vegetables, pasta and French bread. The evening of the fete our group used these products to compose a first course of sliced, smoked chicken garnished with chopped tomatoes, sliced cucumbers and mint, followed by broiled halibut steaks topped with fennel and shallots. The fish was served with linguine tossed with thin slices of cooked carrots, sweet red peppers and asparagus. A simple green salad completed our main course. For dessert we had frozen chocolate and strawberry yogurt and homemade strawberry sauce.

The halibut steaks, which took very little time to assemble and broil, were delicious. While the steaks were marinating in lemon juice and olive oil, a quick saute of finely julienned fennel and shallots seasoned with dill was prepared. The steaks were broiled for a few minutes, then removed and topped with the fennel mixture along with grated Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. Finally, the fish was placed under the broiler for several minutes more to finish the cooking.

This was one of the nicest birthdays I can remember. My husband and son, although absent from the party, called with their best wishes and asked for a complete description of the meal.

HALIBUT BROILED WITH LEMON, DILL AND FENNEL

4 pounds halibut steaks, cut into 8 steaks 1-inch thick

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt, freshly ground pepper

3/4 cup olive oil

2 medium fennel bulbs (enough to make 2 cups finely julienned slices)

1/4 cup chopped shallots

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill or 4 teaspoons dried dill

1/2 cup grated imported Parmesan cheese combined with 2 tablespoons dry unflavored bread crumbs

8 thin lemon wedges and 8 sprigs fresh dill for garnish

With paring knife, cut and loosen flesh around bone area and lift out and discard bones from steaks. Place steaks in large shallow non-aluminum pan. Combine lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt and generous grating of pepper in mixing bowl. Whisk in 1/2 cup olive oil and pour marinade over fish. Marinate, turning several times, at cool room temperature or cover and refrigerate about 45 minutes.

When ready to cook, preheat broiler and arrange rack 5 to 6 inches from flame. Arrange halibut on greased, rimmed baking sheet. Set aside.

Cut off and discard stalks and lacy leaves from fennel bulbs. Cut bulbs in half lengthwise. Then cut out tough triangular cores from each half and discard. Cut fennel layers into very thin 1/8-inch julienne strips.

Heat remaining 1/4 cup olive oil in large heavy skillet over medium high heat. When hot, add fennel and saute, stirring until tender, about 5 minutes. Add shallots and dill and cook 2 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and set aside.

Broil steaks 4 minutes. Remove from broiler and divide fennel mixture and spread on top of each steak. Sprinkle steaks with cheese and bread crumb mixture. Broil, watching carefully, 5 to 6 minutes. Steaks are done when flesh is opaque and flakes easily when pierced with knife. Cooking time should be 8 to 10 minutes per inch of thickness of fish. Remove and garnish each serving with lemon wedge and dill sprig. Makes 8 servings.

NOTE: If halibut is not available, fresh salmon filets or steaks work well.