For Modern-Day Washington Irvings

How to get there: Granada is in the Andalusia region of southern Spain, 271 miles south of Madrid and 80 miles northeast of Malaga. Iberia offers nonstop flights from Los Angeles to Madrid on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, and with connections from New York City’s John F. Kennedy Airport on other days. Call (800) 772-4642. TWA flies daily to Madrid with a connection at JFK. Call (213) 484-9319. One-way air fares range from $986 during the high season to $676 (with restrictions) during low season.

Iberia and Aviaco have daily flights from Madrid to Granada for $200 round trip. The best way to get to Granada is via Renfe (Spain’s national railroad system).

Train tickets can be purchased at Madrid’s Barajas Airport. The Talgo, a modern, all-first-class train, departs every afternoon for Granada from the Atocha station. It’s a six-hour trip and costs $30 one way.

For the budget-minded, Granada can be reached from Madrid by a seven-hour bus ride in modern, air-conditioned buses complete with videos and music. Price: $10 one way.

Accommodations: Parador San Francisco is a 15th-Century convent-turned-hotel in the Alhambra. The rooms, which range from $100 to $150 U.S., need to be booked well in advance. The Alhambra Palace, at Calle Pena Partida 2, is also close to the Alhambra. Rates: about $100-$150. The Washington Irving, Paseo del Generalife 2, charges $45-$60 per night. The Hostal Residencia Britz, at the foot of the Cuesta Gomeerez that leads straight to the Alhambra, offers budget housing for about $22 per night. Most rooms have balconies.

Dining: Granada abounds with excellent restaurants in various price ranges. Among them is Carmen de San Miguel, a country house at Calle Torres Bermejas 3. Closed Sundays. Los Manueles, Calle Zaragoza 2, specializes in regional cooking and tapas . It’s almost unchanged since 1917. Sevilla, Calle Oficios 12, was opened by bullfighter Lagartijo Chico in 1930.

For more information: In Granada, the tourist information office, on Plaza del Padre Suaarez, has a wealth of information about hotels, restaurants, schedules of cultural events and local transportation. Some of the staff members speak English.

Or contact the National Tourist Office of Spain, 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960, Beverly Hills 90211, (213) 658-7188.