The Great Fried Potato Reform

By the end of this year more than 18,000 McDonald’s, Burger King and Wendy’s restaurants in the United States will be serving french fries cooked wholly in vegetable oil, instead of their customary mixture of beef tallow and oil. With this single step, long urged by nutritionists and health-conscious consumers, a traditional junk food will lose much of its junk, leaving a more nutritious dish that contains 45% less saturated fat.

Yes, American arteries will be better for that. But now to the question that burns in the minds of millions who enjoy those french fries just as they are: How will they taste?

They worked on it--McDonald’s spent eight years on research--and now they say they have the answers. The taste will be “preserved,” a McDonald’s official says. We’ll see.

But greasy goodness aside, the three major chains do deserve credit for responding to changing public concerns. Saturated fats, like beef tallow, contribute significantly to heart disease and other ailments. But fats of this kind also add a flavor and texture that explains much of the appeal of certain prepared foods. That’s why the challenge was to find substitutes that would approximate the taste consumers like.

The great fried potato reform is part of a revolution in the fast-food world. A lot of chain restaurants are now offering grilled chicken instead of fried, for example.

Fast-food restaurants serve billions of meals each year. Efforts to make those meals healthier--without losing all the fun--deserve approval.