The Great Tomato : Home-Grown Tomato: Versatility on the Vine

Cooking and gardening are linked by more than an interest in the superlative quality of the end product. All the concerns of the cook--of color, texture, taste and seasonality -- are also concerns of the gardener. To make fallow earth productive, one uses “recipes.” The act of working soil is echoed in actually mixing ingredients in the kitchen. Neither occupation is glamorous. It requires abandoning all vanity as you get down on your knees to check on new seedlings, to weed, to harvest--just as standing over a hot grill will quickly separate the cooks from the dabblers.

In the cookbooks that we write, our point of view is always simplicity of approach, ease of preparation and a minimal number of ingredients. We hope to share some ideas with you on seasonal planting, varieties and specific uses for special vegetables. Each of these aspects lends itself to seasonal cooking for the home gardener and busy cook.

The vegetable that lures most of us to finally get on our knees and dig is the versatile and sensual tomato. Few things are as profoundly stirring as the first harvest of truly vine-ripened fruit. These are thin-skinned tomatoes, full of luscious flesh and heavy with the scent of their spicy green foliage. For many, the first taste of a home-grown tomato forever banishes commercial varieties from the table. Given the ease of growing tomatoes, particularly in Southern California, it isn’t surprising to learn that tomatoes are nationally the most popular vegetable in the home garden.

Even though tomato season is here, it’s not too late to plant tomatoes in Southern California--especially those young plants found in local nurseries.

Here is a rundown of the most popular tomato varieties for home gardeners in Southern California.

For early-season harvest, Early Girl V, a smallish tomato with a slightly flattened shape, has good acid and is full of juice. For mid-season harvest, Big Girl VF produces large fruit and has a mild, sweet flavor. For late-season harvest, Big Boy has large, round fruits that can weigh up to a pound each with strong, acid-balanced flavor.

The most prolific and popular cherry tomatoes are Pixie, a large cherry tomato that ripens more quickly than most, and Sweet 100, a lower-acid variety that ripens in especially beautiful clusters of sweet-as-sugar fruits. (Both can be grown in containers.)

To get mammoth fruit, try a beefsteak tomato. The most common varieties are Supersteak VFN and Delicious, which has been known to reach 6 pounds 8 ounces.

Low-acid yellow tomatoes have a characteristic mellow flavor, as well as a beautiful color that ranges from bright yellow to nearly orange. They are especially striking in salads when paired with red tomatoes for contrast. Two good varieties are Lemon Boy VFN, an especially delicious variety, and Mandarin Cross, a mellow-flavored, yellow-orange variety.

The best paste tomato for Southern California is Roma VF. It bears a very heavy crop and is good for sauce or for canning. Principe Borghese is a traditional Italian cherry tomato grown for sun drying. The fruit is larger than most cherry tomatoes and is slightly oval in shape. Its tough skin and meaty interior make it ideal for stringing rustic strands which can be hung on sunny walls to dry.

Adventurous gardeners might want to experiment with European heirloom varieties. An especially vigorous variety is Carmello, an Italian market tomato with good acid balance and full flavor. We’ve had Carmello plants that continually produce fruit from July through April.

An interesting tip on watering tomatoes comes from Campbell’s Institute for Research and Technology. Researchers there suggest mimicking weather conditions west of the Andes, an indigenous region for tomatoes. This means that, instead of deep watering, plants should be lightly--but frequently--irrigated. In addition, regular watering should be stopped long before harvest time. This is referred to as “dry harvesting.” One more recommendation: Fertilize early in the season.

A truly lucky gardener has enough space for two or three plants of each variety. This would insure a long summer and fall of interesting and constantly changing dishes on the table. But if space is an issue, sauces made from standard tomato varieties can be as delicious as paste varieties--they just require a slightly longer cooking time.

Sun-dried tomatoes can be made from cherry, paste, or standard varieties. And of course, standard and beefsteak varieties lead to an endless repertoire of simple summer salads. Try the pairing of tomatoes, avocados and red onion with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, or a classic insalata caprese --slices of tomato, mozzarella and fresh basil accompanied by a few good Greek olives and a bit of extra-virgin olive oil.

When all ideas for using tomatoes are exhausted, try this simple recipe for sun-dried tomatoes as an alternative to the high-priced gourmet - store product.

SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

Small tomatoes (Roma, Principe Borghese cherry or standard)

Coarse salt

Vinegar

Olive oil

Fresh rosemary, basil or thyme leaves, optional

Cut larger tomatoes into quarters or cherry tomatoes in half. Arrange tomato pieces, cut side up, on baking sheet. Season to taste with salt.

Place baking sheet in 200 degree oven about 7 hours. Watch carefully to make sure tomatoes do not burn.

When done, tomatoes should have a dried, shriveled appearance. As individual pieces dry completely, remove, dip each in vinegar and layer in sterile glass jar. Cover tomatoes completely with olive oil. Add herbs. Tomatoes will last months in or out of refrigerator.

Microwave method: Place tomatoes cut side up on microwave baking sheet and “bake” on LOW (10% power) 14 to 18 minutes.

A hot version of the classic summertime Italian salad of tomato and basil. Be sure to choose red, yet still quite firm tomatoes for this dish. (Firm tomatoes will retain their texture when sauteed.) If your plants are loaded with unripe fruit and you’re worried they’ll ripen all at once, try this recipe with green tomatoes.

POMODORI FRITTI

(From “Cucina Rustica,” by Viana La Place and Evan Kleiman)

4 to 6 firm ripe tomatoes

1/2 cup coarse polenta or yellow cornmeal

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Balsamic vinegar

10 fresh basil leaves

Cut thin slice from stem end of each tomato and discard. Cut tomatoes into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

Place cornmeal in shallow bowl or plate and season to taste with salt and pepper. Begin heating olive oil in large, heavy skillet.

Lightly dredge tomato slices in seasoned cornmeal. When oil is very hot, place tomato slices in skillet, being careful not to crowd.

Every minute or so gently nudge tomato slices with spatula to prevent sticking. If pan is hot enough, tomato slices will be easy to turn over as soon as cornmeal coating is properly cooked. Coating should be crunchy. Turn slices and fry on other side.

Immediately remove tomato slices from skillet and arrange on serving platter. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar. Stack basil leaves and roll up. Holding basil roll, cut crosswise into thin strips. Sprinkle julienned basil over tomatoes. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

This most basic of all Italian fresh tomato sauces is perfect for canning. Using a food mill eliminates the tedious job of peeling and seeding tomatoes; cooking the sauce with the skins and seeds gives it more flavor. To preserve the sauce, pack into sterile jars with 1/2 inch of head space. Process in boiling water bath.

SPAGHETTI WITH SIMPLE TOMATO-BASIL SAUCE

12 Roma tomatoes or 6 large standard tomatoes

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

Dash red pepper flakes

5 to 6 large fresh basil leaves

Salt

1 pound imported spaghetti

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Remove stems of tomatoes and cut in half crosswise. If using round tomatoes, remove most of seeds with fingers. Standard tomatoes tend to have excess liquid and seeds.

Cut tomatoes into quarters. Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in large skillet over moderate heat. Add garlic and red pepper flakes. As soon as garlic gives off aroma and becomes opaque, add tomatoes.

Cook over high heat until tomatoes begin to thicken. Use wooden spoon to stir and break up tomato pulp. Add basil, either whole or roughly chopped, and season to taste with salt.

When sauce is cooked, remove from heat and press through food mill using medium disk. Process will remove skins and create completely smooth texture.

Cook pasta in abundant boiling salted water until al dente. Quickly drain and place in serving bowl with tomato sauce. Drizzle small amount of olive oil over pasta and mix well with sauce. Serve with Parmesan cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

This recipe comes from the Italian summer tradition of tossing an uncooked sauce with hot pasta. Many of these “raw” sauces combine vine-ripened tomatoes with a small number of simple ingredients to create refreshing meals for light summer dining. For example, you can combine chopped tomatoes and extra-virgin olive oil with fresh basil, garlic and a bit of fresh goat cheese or simply combine chopped tomatoes, extra - virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Marinate one hour to allow flavors to develop before tossing with pasta.

SUMMER SALSA FORTE

2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into small dice

4 anchovies, chopped to paste

1/2 cup pitted oil-cured black olives, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons small capers

1 bunch Italian parsley, leaves chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound imported fusilli

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Combine tomatoes, anchovies, olives, capers, parsley, garlic, red pepper flakes, salt to taste and olive oil in small bowl. Marinate at room temperature 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Cook pasta in abundant salted water until al dente. Quickly drain and toss with sauce. Serve with Parmesan cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

PLANTING ALERT

Now is the time to plant cucumber, beans, eggplant, okra, potatoes, pumpkin, summer squash, swiss chard, winter squash.

For Tomato Seeds:

W. Atlee Burpee Co.

Warminster, Penn. 18974

American standards

Park Seed Co.

P.O. Box 31

Greenwood, S.C. 29646

American standards

The Cook’s Garden

P.O. Box 65054

Londonderry, Vt. 05148

European Heirloom, Principe

Borghese

Nichols Garden Nursery

1190 N. Pacific Hwy.

Albany, Ore. 97321

European Heirloom and exotics

Shepherd’s Garden Seeds

7389 W. Zayante Road

Felton, Calif. 95018

European Heirloom

Tomato Growers Supply Co.

P.O. Box 2237

Fort Myers, Fla. 33902

Tomatoes

The Tomato Seed Co.

P.O. Box 323

Metuchen, N.J. 08840

Tomatoes