Details for the Traveler Heading to Banda and Beyond

How to get there: Garuda Indonesia Airlines is currently offering an excursion fare from Los Angeles to any one of five Indonesian cities--Semarang, Solo, Jogjakarta, Biak or Bali (with a minimum seven-day stay). There is a stopover in Honolulu. Round-trip price is $1,155 plus $16 tax.

The Banda Islands are served by Indoavia’s 14-seat DeHavilland aircraft operating out of Ambon on Wednesdays and Saturdays. One-way fare from Ambon to Bandaneira is about $40. There are daily flights to Ambon from the Indonesian capital of Jakarta, as well as from Bali and Biak.

Indoavia is not hooked into the international reservation system. A request via Garuda might work, but travelers should confirm upon arrival in Ambon. Bookings can be made at the Indoavia office at 12 Anthone Rheebok St., Ambon.

There are also biweekly ships to Bandaneira from Ambon. Fare is about $5. Deck passage only.

Where to stay: The Maulana Hotel in Bandaneira is the only lodging approaching international standard and the only one that accepts U.S. currency, traveler’s checks or credit cards. Rooms are $25 single, $45 double. An additional $12 per person for three meals a day. Across the street is an annex called the Laguna Inn--$15 single, $25 double. The hotel has a generator and thus full-time power; the rest of the island has power only at night. Full service for scuba divers and a large party boat are available.

The following Bandaneira hotels do not have air conditioning or hot water, and payment can only be made in local currency:

Hotel Delfika has rooms of various sizes from $10 to $17.50 per person, full board. There is a very pleasant inside courtyard. The management has the annoying habit of adding small, unexpected charges to the bill, and the food is ordinary.

Hotel Museum costs $5 to $15 per person a day, full board. The rooms are in the same Colonial-era building that houses the museum.

The Selecta has only three rooms, one of which is very large. Price: $8.50 a day per person for full board, including three superb meals and afternoon coffee and snacks.

Dining: There are a few market stalls selling rice dishes, but it is best to eat in your hotel. The islands have little produce and the food is simple. The fish, especially tuna, is fresh and delicious. Simple but subtle sauces are made with shallots, tomato, nutmeg and soy. Soups feature greens, potatoes and small bits of meat, lightly seasoned with onion and white pepper.

Shopping: 18th-Century copper coins from the time of the Dutch East India Co. sell for less than a dollar. There is Chinese trade porcelain, mostly repaired, and antique brass. There are no souvenir stores; the buyer should express interest to as many people as possible. There are no banks on Banda. Bring plenty of local currency. No one will change traveler’s checks, although merchants may exchange U.S. dollars at an unfavorable rate. Bills should be in good condition.

Excursions: There are no organized tours to the Banda Islands. The principal island of Neira has old mansions, an interesting church and the impressive remains of the Nassau and Belica forts. There is a footpath around the island. Lonthor is accessible by public boat, Gunung Api by hired dugout.

A day-trip to the other islands will cost about $50-$60 for a large but uncomfortable boat. Run and Ai islands also have old forts. The islets of Pisang and Syhair are set on lovely reefs. Rozengain remains a mystery. Current guidebooks and accounts going back to the mid-19th Century mention it, but no traveler seems to have recorded a visit in recent times.

For more information: There are no guidebooks on the Banda Islands. The best current description is found in “Indonesia Handbook” by Bill Dalton (Moon Publications). Also, contact the Indonesia Tourist Promotion Office, 3457 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 105, Los Angeles 90010, (213) 387-2078.