Enjoying the Trail That Was a Rail in Bermuda

During the 1930s and ‘40s, passengers on the Bermuda Railway were treated to breathtaking views of palmetto-fringed shores, picturesque hamlets and a profusion of subtropical plants and flowers.

The train is long gone, but the Bermudan government in 1984 converted the rails to trails. The result is the Bermuda Railway Trail, a 22-mile footpath that offers travelers an intimate look at the island.

The Bermuda Railway did not have an easy time getting on track. By the time it opened in 1931, it already had two dubious achievements to its name: It was the most costly railway line ever built (more than 1 million), and its rate of construction--2 1/23 miles per year--the slowest ever achieved.

Nevertheless, the railway was a distinct improvement over the muddy roads and horse-drawn carriages. The line and rolling stock deteriorated after World War II, and the government sold it--lock, stock and locomotive--to British Guiana, now Guyana.

Now, the former railway line is a wonderful walk. The grade, as you might expect, is easy. Oleander and hibiscus hedges line the trail, which at times gives walkers the feeling that they’re stepping down a garden path.

Countless subtropical flowers perfume the salt air. The islanders are extremely polite, helpful and particularly friendly to anyone exploring their island on foot. All of Bermuda--cities, sights and beaches--is within reach of the Railway Trail.

Although the serious hiker could walk the whole 22-mile trail--plus numerous side trails and byways--in two days, sampling the path a few miles a day is the better way to go.

Spend mornings walking to some of the island’s scattered sights: the Aquarium, Botanical Garden, Royal Navy Dockyard, Lover’s Lake Nature Preserve, plus the towns of Hamilton, Somerset and St. George. Use the warm afternoons to sunbathe or sightsee.

Pick up a copy of “The Bermuda Railway Trail Guide” at the Bermuda Department of Tourism Office in the capital city of Hamilton. This brochure divides the trail into seven sections and has some excellent maps and descriptions.

Also helping you get on the trail is the island’s excellent bus service. Buses are frequent and (usually) on time. Passengers always say “thank you” to the driver when disembarking. Almost every part of the Bermuda Railway Trail is within a short walk of a bus stop.

The trail visits--or travels near--virtually every park and preserve on the island. You’ll walk through small groves of native Bermuda cedar and fiddleneck woodland, as well as stands of allspice trees and Surinam cherry.

Anyone with an interest in subtropical botany will be delighted with a visit to the Bermuda Botanical Garden, which features a palm garden, hibiscus garden, fern collection and an aviary.

The Bermuda Railway Trail is also a walk into the island’s history. You’ll visit St. George, the second English town to be established in the New World (Jamestown, Va., was the first).

Another sight is Somerset Bridge, the smallest drawbridge in the world. Just 32 inches wide, this hand-operated relic from 1620 still opens to allow the passage of a sailboat’s mast. Just offshore from the trail is Gibbet Island, where witches once were burned at the stake.

Intersecting the Bermuda Railway Trail are numerous dirt roads that the islanders call Tribe Roads. Tribe Road 2 goes to Gibbs Hill Light House, Tribe Road 4A to Elbow Beach. Other tribe roads lead to other adventures.

Bermuda Railway Trail never wanders too far from food and drink. You can stop at the local grocery stores and buy items for a picnic, drop by an ice cream parlor or lunch at a seafood restaurant on conk fritters, fried abalone or fish with a ginger cream sauce. Wash it down with a British beer or fruity tropical concoction.

Of course, to really get into the spirit of walking Bermuda, men should pay a visit to one of the fine clothiers in downtown Hamilton. Proper length for Bermuda shorts, which usually come in rather plain colors, is two to four inches above the knee.

Local gentlemen wear them with knee socks, ties and jackets. Official Bermuda “short season” for the police force is May to November, but many men wear them year-round.

Winter, for the dedicated walker anyway, might be a good time to hit the Railway Trail. Bermuda, about 600 miles east of North Carolina, is not a tropical island. It has hot summers, but only mild winters, when the water can be cold enough to keep people out. If getting a perfect tan is not your primary reason for visiting Bermuda, winter is a nice time to go.

Bermuda Rendezvous Time, as they call it on the island, runs from mid-November to the end of March. Many special events are scheduled during the off-season. For the budget- conscious traveler, visiting at this time can result in substantial savings on accommodations. (Bermuda can be a very expensive island.)

Hiking across Bermuda is definitely not for everyone, thank heaven. But for the adventurous, the bucolic Bermuda Railway Trail is a great experience.

Hiking / Bermuda Railway Trail Where: Bermuda Island, about 600 miles east of North Carolina. Length: 22 miles one way. Terrain: Subtropical island beaches and bluffs. Highlights: Island history, flora, famous pink-sand beaches. Degree of Diffculty: Easy. Precautions: Protection from sun. For more information: Contact the Bermuda Department of Tourism, 310 Madison Ave., Suite 201, New York 10017, (800) 223-6106.