Roche Winery

WHEN GENEVIEVE AND JOSEPH Roche, Bay Area pathologists, bought 2,500 acres in the Carneros in Sonoma, they thought that “a small vineyard might be nice.” But they had heard how difficult it was to grow grapes in the Diablo clay soil, so they set about cattle ranching.

They continued doing so for nearly 10 years, until they decided to pursue their dream. The Roches had been inspired by the presence of the region’s growers, such as Louis Martini and the de Latours of Beaulieu.

When I visited, I asked Joe about growing grapes in adobe soil. He waved his hand toward the obviously healthy vines and admitted: “Adobe is a hard soil to get anything to grow (in). However, once the vines are established, the grapes develop rare intensity of flavor.”

When the first vines came into bearing, Steve MacRostie, who had made his reputation with prize-winning wines at Hacienda Wine Cellars in Sonoma, was hired as consultant.

Joe and I sat down for lunch accompanied by three wines of current release. I was immediately intrigued by the first, which had been poured as an aperitif. I picked it up, looked at the handsome label and asked about its title, Tamarix.

“This,” Joe said, “is our Blanc de Pinot Noir, from whole-cluster fermentation. We sell it only here at the winery. It’s our bestseller.”

This wine is redolent of strawberries. From its color comes the name Tamarix, a fragile pink wildflower that grows on the ranch. It’s worth a trip to the Carneros, one of the most prestigious viticultural appellations in the world, to get this wine. Only 500 cases of this 1988 edition were made.

Of course, there’s a Chardonnay. The Roche 1989 Carneros Chardonnay ($12.95) is 75% barrel-fermented, with the remainder fermented in stainless steel. Forty percent of the blend undergoes malolactic fermentation, aged sur lies in new Allier French oak barrels, all of which rounds it out to a buttery-smooth richness with an intrinsic delicacy of fruit. The 1989 Carneros Pinot Noir ($16.95) has no hint of the tar-bitterness that some wines from this varietal have--just berry-cherry aromatics. It easily brings new kudos for this varietal in the Carneros.