Rising Cost of Bubbly Adds to Worries of Rich

Congress may be talking about taxing millionaires, but they have other concerns just now.

You see, old chap, the cost of champagne is simply popping through the roof.

“Nobody can afford the French prices any more,” said Mauricio de Fendi, wine manager at Scotti Wines & Liquors. “Americans are experts in selling everything, but the French are stylish; they say, ‘We don’t want to sell for a low price.’ ”

A year ago, the Wine Cask in Palm Beach Gardens sold a gift set of a bottle of Dom Perignon rose champagne and a $110 set of two Baccarat crystal glasses for a combined $250.

Today, it costs $230 just for the champagne.

Producers attribute the champagne crisis in part to the fall of the U.S. dollar, and in part to a too-successful marketing campaign.

“Democratization can sometimes go too far,” explained Christian Bizot, chairman of the Bollinger Champagne house.

During the last decade, French champagne producers marketed their product toward the masses. They did such a good job that worldwide sales last year hit 250 million bottles, up 75% since 1982.

“Our sales have gone up much too fast,” said Jean-Michel Ducellier, president of the Ayala Champagne house and chairman of the Assn. of Champagne Producers. “We have kept our prices too low.”

People who now pay $24 for a bottom-of-the-line bottle of Moet & Chandon, Taittinger or Bollinger soon may have to spend $30 or more for a bottle.