A Case for Belgian Leather
Shoppers who are savvy about fine leather goods are familiar with the luggage, handbags and accessories created by Delvaux, Belgium’s prestigious leather goods manufacturer.
But while the Delvaux name is famous in Belgium, the company--which is headquartered in a quiet Brussels suburb--is less known elsewhere. Unlike other fine leather goods manufacturers, Delvaux is decidedly low-profile and decidedly exclusive.
Yet Delvaux promises patrons more than snob appeal. The company stands by its products, which are made to last for generations. In fact, it’s not unusual to see customers enter Delvaux shops to have new handles attached to suitcases that are 50 years old . . . or, perhaps, older.
With that long of a life, no wonder Delvaux products, made in limited quantity, can fetch prices as high as $5,000 for a handbag. Only about 16,000 Delvaux handbags are made each year. The reason: each bag, suitcase, wallet and key holder is fashioned entirely by hand by a team of three craftsmen who treat it more like a work of art than a functional item.
Each year, the company introduces its new line of about 40 items, including handbags, wallets and coin and key holders.
The material often used is a durable calf leather obtained from top-quality tanneries in Italy, France and Germany, but exotic leathers such as crocodile and ostrich are also utilized.
Working of the leather is time-consuming and exacting. The hide is first stretched and made even by scraping the skin. After the leather is cut and shaped into the necessary pieces, the edges of each piece are shaved and pressed so that pieces fit together exactly. Every seam is stitched by hand.
In Delvaux’s exclusive designs, leather is folded into ingeniously shaped flaps and pockets. A fashion-coordinated palette of rich colors is introduced each year, but the collection relies heavily on standards such as white, brown, navy and black. The products are trademarked with a distinctive leather “D” that is incorporated into the designs, not printed on the leather or stamped onto metal fastenings.
All clasps and ornamentation are made of brass, plated with 24 karat gold.
Delvaux also produces its own trademarked pattern of woven leather. This is made of narrow strips of gray, brown and tan leather bound together with thread. The result is a durable material that is cut and used as though it were a piece of hide.
The resulting distinctive striped look is a Delvaux exclusive, and all of it is made in the Brussels workshop to protect the pattern from copying. The woven material is durable and lighter in weight than regular leather. It is used to make luggage and carryalls, as well as handbags and other accessories.
Founded in 1820, the company grew modestly compared to its reputation. In the early days, the workshop employed only four craftsmen, and each artisan created his own bags from start to finish. At present, about 80 artisans are employed in the workshop.
Delvaux barely survived World War I and continued its limited production through the difficult years that followed. In 1933, Delvaux was taken over by Franz Schwennicke, who enlarged the workshop, augmented production and initiated Delvaux’s apprenticeship program to train young craftsmen to continue the tradition of quality. Schwennicke died in 1970. His wife, Solange, continues to run the company.
Delvaux leather crafters must complete the company’s apprenticeship program. The program accepts two apprentices each year, selected from hundreds of applicants. Following apprenticeship, the apprentice artisan assists a master craftsman, usually for at least three years, before being allowed to make a wallet alone, and for 10 years before being allowed to make a handbag.
Handbags in box calf cost between $400 and $1,000. Ostrich bags cost about $2,500, and ranch-raised crocodile bags are priced from $3,000 to $5,000. Wallets cost from $60 to $250. Attache cases are $800 to $1,200. Luggage in woven leather ranges in price from $700 to $1,200 per piece. Delvaux also produces beautiful leather belts with handsome buckles priced from $150 to $200. Other items include key cases ($20 to $100), desk accessories (from $150), plus leather agendas, notebooks and folders (from $180).
Additionally, the Delvaux workshop takes special orders for everything from one-of-a-kind handbags to backgammon cases, from golf bags to steamer trunks. Orders may be placed through Delvaux’s three Brussels boutiques--at 24a Avenue de la Toison d’Or, 22 Blvd. Adolphe Max and 31 Galerie de la Reine, or at four Delvaux boutiques in the Belgian towns of Waterloo, Antwerp, Mechelen and Kortrijk.
Distribution outside Belgium is limited to Delvaux’s Paris branch, 18 Rue Royale; two Tokyo branches, Isetan Department Store in Shinjuku and Matsuya in the Ginza. In April, Isetan will open a Delvaux branch in Singapore. Delvaux bags are not sold by mail order.
Prices quoted in this article reflect currency exchange rates at the time of writing.
