Exotic Delights of Hiking in Tahiti and Moorea

Exotic tropical forests, mysterious caves, waterfalls and ancient stone ruins--these are some of the delights of trekking Tahiti and Moorea, two islands in French Polynesia with some terrific pathways.

True, few visitors think of pathways when they think of Polynesia, but Tahiti and its neighbor isle of Moorea have some good mountain hikes to complement their stunning beaches. Characteristic of Polynesia, these islands have jagged volcanic formations, deep valleys and cascading waterfalls.

The mountains have inspired many scientists and artists. In 1835, Charles Darwin traveled through the Tahitian mountains, where his observations led to his Theory of Evolution.

In 1891, despondent Paul Gauguin went into the mountains and painted his great work, “Where do we come from? What are we? Where are we going?”

In 1920, the American writer James Norman Hall did a lot of walking in the mountains while researching and writing “Mutiny on the Bounty.”

Tahiti and Moorea have a huge variety of plant life. Some of the flora is native, but much was introduced to the islands by settlers--first the Polynesians themselves and later by missionaries and European settlers.

The native tiare , a bush with white flowers, is to Polynesia what the lotus is to India: highly symbolic. The tiare is worn for special occasions, of which there are many on the islands.

Hibiscus abounds, as do such trees with edible fruit as mangoes, guavas, coconut and bananas. Tree trunks in the tropical forest are often covered with moss and surrounded by wild orchids. The hiker often literally runs into the nonnative lantana, which forms a thick and nearly impenetrable shrubby barrier.

Seen from a distance, the mountains seem almost impossibly green. As 18th-Century French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville noted: “No matter how high the mountains, not one rock protruded--all is covered by forest.”

(Today, we remember Bougainville more for vegetation than exploration: Those woody bougainvillea vines with the showy pink and purple flowers flourish on the islands.)

Few animals roam Tahiti and Moorea, though the hiker in remote terrain might spot a wild pig or goat. Bird life, however, is more abundant. One bird, the tava’e , a black and white bird with red tail feathers, had great symbolic value to the early Tahitians. The ancients used the red feathers to make royal emblems and to honor their gods.

Heavenly as French Polynesia may be, hiking Tahiti or Moorea isn’t always an easy walk through the park. Trails are infrequently maintained and, because the tropical vegetation grows so fast, can quickly become impassable. Some trails are signed with arrows painted on rocks and trees.

Bring rain gear, as well as a change of clothes, since showers are frequent and unexpected. Also, be careful of rivers, which are dangerous during rainstorms when the water level rises and the current quickens.

Ask both tourist officials and locals lots of questions about the trails and their condition, the terrain and how to get to the trail head. While most islanders in the travel business speak some English, you’ll find that a little French goes a long way. (Unlike most habitues of the French-speaking world, the Tahitians and Mooreans are not at all appalled when you massacre tense and mix in English with your dimly recalled high school French.)

Inquire at the visitors bureaus or at hotels about hiring a local guide. A good guide will not only keep you on the trail, but increase your appreciation of the natural world.

You can hike Tahiti or Moorea all year, but do note that the rainy season coincides with the warmest months--November to March. The relatively drier and cooler season, from June to November, is the best for hiking.

The main island of Tahiti has more than two dozen trails. Little Moorea, 11 miles long and seven miles wide, has half a dozen or so good hikes and is a great place to begin exploring Polynesian pathways.

Tahitians nicknamed Moorea Fe’e, or “The Octopus,” because of the numerous long land arms separated by deep bays. One of these bays--Cook’s Bay--is named for Capt. James Cook, first European to reach Moorea.

One easy Moorea trail begins at the outskirts of the village of Afareaitu and leads to a waterfall by the same name. A path leads under the shade of mango trees, past coffee plants, wild orchids and vanilla. The waterfall tumbles some 200 feet down the basalt mountainside.

Another easy trail climbs past the island’s School of Agriculture, through a lush valley to a pass guarded by three prominent coconut trees.

A moderate hike along a trail marked by red paint dabbed on trees and rocks is the ridgeline route between the communities of Vaiare and Paopao. From the ridge, you get grand views of Mt. Orohena, Tahiti’s highest (7,352 feet), as well as the whole interior of Moorea.

More difficult trails climb Mt. Rotui, a magnificent massif towering above Cook’s Bay. At the summit, there is a remarkable view of the amphitheater of an ancient volcano. In Polynesian mythology, Mt. Rotui is purgatory for dead souls before their ascension into Paradise.

You probably won’t head for the heart of Polynesia just to take a hike. But you’ll be happy if you pack your walking shoes because a mountain jaunt will add something very special to a visit to these romantic isles and their enchanting people.

Hiking / French Polynesia Where: Island of Moorea. Distance: 2-8 miles round trip. Terrain: Lush tropical forest, steep mountains. Highlights: Flowers, ferns, great beaches. Precautions: Overgrown, sometimes poorly marked trails; hiring a guide is a good idea for some hikes. Aggressive mosquitoes. For more information: Contact the Tahiti Tourist Board, 9841 Airport Blvd., Suite 1108, Los Angeles 90045, (213) 649-2884