The 5th Quarter : BACK TO BASICS : Sweetbreads of Youth

The term sweetbreads is used for both the thymus and pancreas glands of beef, veal and lamb. In this country, only veal and beef sweetbreads are sold; lamb sweetbreads are available in other parts of the world.

Of the two types, thymus (or throat) sweetbreads are the easiest to find. These elongated glands grow in the neck of young calves and almost disappear by the time the animals mature.

Occasionally the rounded pancreas (called “heart” or “belly” sweetbreads) can be found, sometimes paired with the thymus gland. Because the pancreas grows larger and becomes tougher as the animal matures, those from young calves are the best.

Sweetbreads are so perishable they’re frequently sold frozen rather than fresh. (If purchased fresh and not cooked the same day, they should be frozen.) Freezing has little effect on their flavor or quality.

What does affect the tenderness of sweetbreads is the preliminary preparation. They must be soaked in cold water, changed occasionally, for several hours to draw out any blood.

Next place the sweetbreads in a pan with enough cold water to cover, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer about five minutes. Some experts suggest adding a dash of salt and a small amount of vinegar or lemon juice to the water.

Remove the pan from the heat and rinse the sweetbreads with cold water until they are cold and firm. Drain and remove the larger pieces of membrane and connective tissue (Step 1); leave some, however, or the gland will fall apart during cooking.

Place the sweetbreads in a baking dish, cover with plastic wrap and a plate (Step 2), then weight (Step 3) and refrigerate several hours or overnight. This process extrudes any undesirable pink liquid and leaves the sweetbreads white, compact and tender.

The simplest way to finish preparing sweetbreads is to slice them horizontally (Step 4) and saute on both sides in butter and a little minced garlic until golden brown. They may also be broiled, braised with mushrooms in a cream sauce or wrapped with bacon and grilled.

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