High-End Meal, Low-End Tab

Everybody who has tried in vain to get reservations at Locanda Veneta will be pleased to know that the offshoot, Ca’ Brea, has just opened on the site of the old Robaire’s. People who are interested in eating good food at reasonable prices should be interested as well--this may be the lowest-priced high-end restaurant in town.

The food that Antonio Tommasi is cooking is similar to what he serves at Locanda--but different. Starters include a dish of mixed beans with baby back ribs and wonderful little shrimp cakes with onion marmalade. The few pasta dishes include gnocchi, spaghetti with tuna, and bigoletti with seafood in a saffron sauce. The best of the entrees I tried was a huge, succulent breast of chicken and a fine osso buco.

The room itself is now streamlined, modern and dark, with high ceilings and an open kitchen. Is it noisy? You bet it is. If you want to have a conversation, ask for a table upstairs. Ca’ Brea, 348 S. La Brea Blvd., (213) 938-2863. Entrees from $7.50-$14.95