George Washington Danced Here

This proud seaport community, once George Washington’s hometown, is a place where 18th-Century taverns and apothecary shops are a stone’s throw from Vietnamese and Afghan restaurants, where artists create in a converted torpedo factory at the Potomac’s edge, and where spirits are said to roam cobblestone streets and red-brick homes.

Its rich history befits Old Town’s location between the nation’s capital and Washington’s Mount Vernon estate 16 miles away, and its strategic role in the Revolutionary and Civil wars. And this is history well-preserved--the city even has its own archeologist.

It also has venerable Gadsby’s Tavern, where Washington dined, danced and celebrated his election to the Virginia House of Burgesses (he groused about the cost of the victory party). The majestic Georgian-style Carlyle House was built in 1752 by merchant John Carlyle, who supplied Washington’s militia with arms and hosted George and Martha when they came to town.

At the Old Presbyterian Meeting House, General “Light Horse” Harry Lee, Robert E. Lee’s father, eulogized Washington upon his death as “first in war, first in peace, first in the hearts of his countrymen.”

Across town, the younger Lee’s boyhood home--to which he returned after Appomattox to see “if the snowballs were still in bloom”--is now a museum. So is the nearby Lee-Fendall House, occupied by 37 different Lees over more than a century.

But this is more than just a “George Washington Slept Here” kind of place. Old Town has a flair for bringing history alive as well.

The city celebrates its Scottish heritage each July with a two-day Celtic festival that includes Highland dancing, bagpipers and a national fiddling competition (July 27-28 this year), and each December with a candlelight Christmas walk (Dec. 13-14).

Washington’s birthday is recalled with monthlong February festivities highlighted by a black-tie banquet and ball and the country’s longest birthday parade.

Old Town is also adaptable. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the Torpedo Factory Art Center. In 1918, the Navy built this mammoth structure to manufacture torpedo shell casings. Alexandria subsequently purchased and refurbished it, and today it houses about 200 artists’ studios and galleries in three airy stories.

“It’s a great place,” says paint-splattered potter Judy Kogard, who doubled her income when she joined a cooperative in the art center a year ago. “I don’t think there’s any market like it in the country.”

Old Town itself is part of greater Alexandria, a diverse city of 111,000 about eight miles south of Washington, D.C., and two miles from National Airport. Designated a National Landmark, Old Town is about 100 square blocks.

This area includes some 1,000 Georgian, Greek Revival, Federal and Victorian period buildings that are a century old and several that date back 200 years. Many of the most historically significant are open for guided tours.

From the waterfront on Alexandria’s eastern border, the Washington Monument, the dome of the Jefferson Memorial and the Capitol are visible across the Potomac. To the west is the impressive 333-foot tower of the George Washington Masonic National Memorial on Shooter’s Hill (so named when Civil War units encamped there). An elevator shuttles visitors to the top for commanding views of Alexandria, the Potomac and Washington.

Old Town’s population is diverse. Black families can trace their Alexandria heritage back several generations. A large affluent populace includes lawyers, writers, consultants and others associated with the federal government. And there is a substantial arts community.

Proximity to Old Town’s charms has its price. Housing is expensive--modest brick-and-wood-frame town houses start in the $300,000 range and climb to well over $1 million. Flights to and from nearby National Airport can be deafening. And downtown streets are often crowded with visitors.

Nevertheless, Old Town remains determinedly hospitable. Ramsey House, which was Alexandria’s first residence, is now a centrally located visitors center with brochures, tour information and helpful staff. Out-of-town visitors can request an “honorary citizen” card that entitles them to free parking. And a 24-hour taped message provides information on upcoming events (703-838-5005).

During our many visits, my wife and I have found that two of the city’s strong suits are its varied cuisine and gift shopping. Restaurants offer everything from hearty French bistro cooking to trendy nouvelle New Mexican to delicate Vietnamese dishes. And shops range from those specializing in books and prints of the Civil War to those filled with African art.

A good way to get a feel for the city’s past is by taking a guided tour. Public tours are available, starting from Ramsey House, from April 1 through Nov. 30. In addition, special tours are offered on Washington’s birthday, Halloween and at Christmas time, and private tours can be arranged anytime. Self-guided tour maps are also provided at the information center.

Ed Michaels, our amiable guide, greeted us on the morning of Washington’s birthday clad in tricorn hat, brown woolen cape, green coat with silver pewter buttons, white breeches, blue stockings and black buckle shoes.

Alexandria was founded, Michaels recalled, when some of the prosperous early Scottish settlers decided that their future could be enhanced if they transformed it from a farming community to a seaport. They obtained a charter from the Colonial government at Williamsburg, Va., and established the town in 1749.

William Ramsey, one of the Scottish founders, floated his house up the river on a barge from a Scottish settlement 30 miles south where it was built in 1724. It arrived at its present 221 King St. address about 1750.

As Alexandria’s fortunes shifted from flourishing seaport to growing city to bedroom community, the clapboard structure served at various times as tavern, brothel and cigar factory. It was originally near the wharf, but the city fathers decided to fill in the bay to create two new blocks below Lee Street (formerly Water Street), which became the heart of the waterfront district.

After walking one block east down King Street, we turned right on South Lee to cobblestone Swift Alley. There, halfway up the block on the left, Michaels pointed out an example of one of Old Town’s architectural oddities: a flounder house.

These structures, generally built in narrow spaces, recall their namesake because they are flat and windowless on one side, resembling half a house. It is thought that the owners put them up quickly to meet 1750s building codes requiring residents to develop the property within two years. Many intended to build later additions; some, obviously, never did so.

Continuing south, in front of 120 S. Lee, we came upon a mounting block that 18th-Century women used for stepping up into carriages. This was to avoid the embarrassing exposure of ankles (18th-Century bust lines, however, were a different story).

At the corner of South Lee and Prince streets stands the Greek Revival Athenaeum. Originally built as Old Dominion Bank in 1851, it was used by occupying Union soldiers first as a commissary and later as a hospital during the Civil War. It is now the gallery of the Northern Virginia Fine Arts Assn. On Lower Prince, “Captain’s Row” is lined with handsome old town houses on either side of the cobblestone street.

We turned right up Prince Street to 209, once the home of Dr. Elisha Cullen Dick, the consulting physician for what proved to be Washington’s last illness at Mount Vernon.

Treating Washington for strep throat, the doctors bled him three times in 24 hours--the accepted “treatment” of the day. At the moment of Washington’s death, Dick stopped a chamber clock, which can be seen along with other Washington memorabilia at the Masonic memorial.

Across the street, at 212 and 214, sit the “double houses”--two yellow three-story homes with identical floor plans. Above the door of one is a “busy body”--a mirrored device that allowed an occupant to see who was at the door or passing by without being observed doing so.

Turning right at South Fairfax Street, we reached the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Shop, opened in 1792. Robert E. Lee was a frequent patron. When Daniel Webster and John Calhoun engaged in philosophical debate, the druggist opened his doors to entertain passers-by.

Today the building is a museum and gift shop. Civil War artifacts, as well as an order from Martha Washington for castor oil, are displayed.

Across Market Square and the fountains in front of City Hall--where Alexandria’s first half-acre lots were auctioned off for about $80 apiece--sits Gadsby’s Tavern on North Royal Street.

This is actually two buildings. The smaller one, built in 1770, was the original tavern and remains one today; the larger one was the City Hotel when it was built in 1792 and housed the ballroom where Washington’s birthday ball was held in 1798 and 1799, the year of his death. It is a now museum.

The hotel taproom was a kind of communal gathering place, albeit for men only. Merchants and patriots came in to dine, conduct business, catch up on the day’s events--and possibly even plot the Revolution--over thick stews, meat pies and fish washed down with generous amounts of beer, sherry and wine. Washington, a frequent guest, was partial to the roast duck.

The large public room up the narrow wooden steps was used for performances of the latest rowdy plays from England. Acrobats and, on one memorable occasion, an educated pig, also showcased their talents. Dances were held here as well, and Washington, who was accomplished on his feet, high-stepped on these very floorboards.

A year before his death, the nation’s father stood in the tavern’s doorway and reviewed the American troops marching by in a grand parade.

Now, each February, as Old Town celebrates Washington’s birthday, contemporary troops, veterans of 20th-Century conflicts and re-enactors representing Revolutionary and Civil war soldiers stride past a reviewing stand not far from where America’s first commander in chief himself once stood.

GUIDEBOOK

Alexandria’s Old Town

Old Town Alexandria is two miles from National Airport and within a 15-minute subway ride of Washington. It hosts special events in February, June, July and December. Walking tours are conducted from April 1 to Nov. 30; boat tours on the Potomac River are also available.

A visit can easily be combined with a trip to Mount Vernon, Washington’s estate eight miles up the Potomac, or a Washington tour.

Where to stay: Morrison House (116 S. Alfred St., Alexandria, Va. 22314, telephone 800-367-0800 or 703-838-8000) is an elegant, European-style hotel in the heart of Old Town. Rates $165-/$195, suites $250 and up; includes American breakfast and health-club privileges; afternoon tea served 3-5 p.m. ($10 per person).

Old Town Holiday Inn (480 King St., Alexandria, Va. 22314, 800-368-5047 or 703-549-6080) is also centrally located. Rates $72-$125, include use of indoor pool and sauna.

Where to eat: Le Gaulois (1106 King St., 703-739-9494) is a French bistro with hearty country cooking and candlelight ambience; dinner for two without liquor, $40-$50.

East Wind (809 King St., 703-836-1515) is a Vietnamese restaurant with superb food. Try the crispy spring rolls or marinated beef on skewers. Dinner for two, $25-$35.

Sante Fe East (110 S. Pitt St., 703-548-6900) is a Southwest restaurant with Korean, Thai and California influences; dinner for two, $50-$60.

Potowmack Landing (G.W. Parkway at Washington Sailing Marina, 703-548-0001) is an ideal setting for a drink, on the banks of the Potomac across from the nation’s capital.

Special events: Each June, the Red Cross Waterfront Festival celebrates the city’s maritime heritage with waterfront events, tall ships, entertainment and fireworks. For more information, call (703) 549-8300.

July 27-28: The 18th annual Virginia Scottish Games features Highland dancing, bagpipers and fiddling and harp competitions. Events are held at 3901 Braddock Road from 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

For more tour information, contact Doorways to Old Virginia at (703) 538-0100. Guided walking tours are $3 per person. Boat tours are on The Admiral Tilp (703-684-0580). A 40-minute cruise is $5 for adults, $3.50 for children under 12.

For more information: Contact the Alexandria Convention and Visitors Bureau, 221 King St., Alexandria, Va. 22314, (703) 838-4200.

A 24-hour taped message for upcoming events is changed weekly; call (703) 838-5005.