Kauai, Hawaii : Waimea Canyon

Waimea Canyon is often called the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” a somewhat misleading label.

At 3,600 feet deep, 10 miles long and a mile wide, Waimea is not a huge chasm like the Grand. The resemblance is more in spirit and spectacle than in size and shape. With its verdant valleys and high ridges blanketed in yellow, orange and yellow lantana, and its rare birds and foliage, Waimea has a magic all its own.

Preserved in Waimea Canyon State Park, the canyon is a cool mountain escape from the hot, humid lowlands, an opportunity to camp, fish, pick tropical fruit and, especially, to walk into a monumental landscape that is--to say the least--unusual on a tropical isle.

Directions to trail head: To reach Waimea Canyon State Park from the southwest shore of the island, drive up Kokee Road (Highway 55) from the town of Kekaha. Two turnouts--Waimea Canyon Lookout and Puu Hinahina Lookout--offer great views of the canyon. It’s 10 miles from Kekaha to the trail head, which is 1 1/2 miles beyond the entrance to the park.

The hike: At a small parking area, you can first join the Iliau Nature Loop, an easy quarter-mile interpreted nature path. About two dozen native plants are identified, including the iliau plants, which are related to Hawaii’s famous silversword and the mainland’s century plant. Like its two distant cousins, the iliau grows without flowering for years, then suddenly produces a stalk of bright blossoms. From the nature trail, you’ll get good views of Waimea Canyon. There’s an inviting picnic shelter near the trail.

A short way down the nature trail from the canyon rim is a sign-in station and the beginning of Kukui Trail. Remember that this is an “upside-down” hike; the return trip has a serious elevation gain, so plan your day accordingly.

Lantana-lined Kukui Trail descends steeply, switchbacking toward the Waimea River more than 2,000 feet below. A sight for sore eyes--and knees--is the bench at a viewpoint located half a mile down the trail. You’ll get grand canyon views from there, as well as from another viewpoint located a mile down the trail.

At trail’s end is Wiliwili Camp, sitting close to the Waimea River. Hikers can head upriver half a mile on Waimea Canyon Trail to Kaluahaulu Camp. Adventurous hikers can then join the Koaie Canyon Trail for a trek through a rugged forested canyon.

From Wiliwili Camp, the hiker can also plunge downriver on Waimea Canyon Trail, fording the river many times. (Use caution during periods of high water.) Swimming holes and sunbathing spots reward the adventurous.

Where: Waimea Canyon State Park. Distance: 5 miles round trip; 2,300-foot elevation loss and gain. Terrain: Steep-walled volcanic rock canyon. Degree of Difficulty: Easy for the nature trail, but a strenuous descent into the canyon. Highlights: The “Grand Canyon of the Pacific”, native plants and birds. For more information: Contact the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of State Parks, Kaual District, P.O. Box 1671, Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii 96766, (808) 245-4444.