What Makes ‘Em Run to Sammy? Chili Dogs

This is written for chili dog lovers, those daredevils willing to risk hardened arteries and resentful stomachs rather than forgo one of life’s great thrills.

If you’re going to put your body on the line for this delicacy, you want a truly first-class chili dog. Unfortunately, in Orange County the main purveyors are the mediocre chains, which deliver a bad imitation.

Good news, though: The genuine, real-thing chili dog still lives at Sammy’s No. 2, a little place in a Huntington Beach shopping center that looks and tastes like it belongs downtown near a ballpark.

Sammy’s is mainly a lunch place, although it’s open into the night. The menu includes various kinds of burgers, cold and hot sandwiches and salads, all far above the fast-food norm. And if you don’t have to go back to work, there’s beer in the cooler ($1.75 to $2).

But the star at Sammy’s is his chili dog.

You order, say, two of them and a large Pepsi ($5 even) and receive plain hot dogs (both frankfurter and bun are steamed). You assemble the rest yourself.

The best is first: Sammy’s I-make-it-myself-but-don’t-ask- for-the-recipe chili, both without or with beans. (Connoisseurs take it without .)

Next is the little-known secret ingredient in a world-class chili dog--celery salt. (Never tried it? Try it.)

The other necessities are at the cold counter: real Cheddar cheese, freshly chopped red onions, pepperoncini (green Italian peppers) for milder palates, yellow Mexican peppers for the foolhardy.

Sammy’s No. 2 is on the southwest corner of Beach Boulevard and Talbert Avenue next to a Pizza Hut. In case you overdo it--and you’ll be tempted--there’s a pharmacy in the same shopping center. Also a laundromat to get out the chili stains.

Sammy’s No. 2, 18011 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach. Open Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (714) 847-7566.