Fashion: FALL ISSUE : MAKEUP : Catching Up to Color
Aquick glance around any cosmetics counter proves that most makeup and skin-care products are aimed at light-complexioned women.
But the 1990 U.S. Census figures show that the Latin population in Los Angeles increased 70.7% in the past 10 years. In the same time, the Asian population increased 65.5%. Several companies are scrambling to accommodate the ethnic market with full collections of skin-care products and makeup. Among the new entries: Maybelline, the Body Shop, Clinique, Kayla Cosmetics and Prescriptives.
Prescriptives is by far the most ambitious. Its new line of 115 foundation shades, called All Skins, is scheduled to hit department stores next month. It is actually an expansion of the company’s earlier color options, which included 70 shades.
The new foundations, available in five formulas based on skin type and desired finish, will sell for $28.50. They run the gamut from the palest ivory to deepest ebony.
The All Skins concept was conceived about 3 1/2 years ago, says Marianne Diorio, public relations director for the company.
“The census confirmed we were on the right track, but what prompted the launch was our experience overseas,” Diorio explains. “We launched in Japan and learned a lot about Asian skin. We felt this was a natural progression for us.”
Burbank-based Kayla opened its first makeup emporium for Asians in Beverly Hills last February. Kayla’s cream foundation is packaged with two shades per compact, so that women can blend a foundation closest to their own skin tone. The company also offers a complete line of color cosmetics for a range of skin tones, priced from $13 to $32 at the boutique or via mail order. Kayla has also drawn a substantial non-Asian clientele, says Chairman Michael Ghafouri.
“Our research has shown that 25% to 30% of the women in the U.S. have darker complexions,” he says. “Because we were unknown to many of the locals and tourists who wandered into our store, we have serviced Caucasian women with yellow skin tones, as well as those with Mediterranean backgrounds.”
The company plans new boutiques in the Hawaiian Islands and New York. Eventually, Kayla plans to expand into Tokyo, Hong Kong and Singapore.
Earlier this spring, the Body Shop added 21 color cosmetic products for darker-skinned women, leading to a 6% increase in sales nationwide, says spokeswoman Lisa Herling. Prices range from $5.35 for a lip color to $5.95 for foundation.
Maybelline debuted Shades of You this summer, a line of products dedicated to black women. Featuring a dozen shades of foundation in two formulas, the products sell for $3.35 to $5.50 in pharmacies and grocery outlets.
Clinique’s Colour Deeps, a line of foundation in six colors, has just arrived in stores, along with a line of accompanying color products called Sheer Intensities.
Some larger cosmetics companies such as Flori Roberts, Fashion Fair and Shiseido have been wooing black and Asian women with products adaptable to their skin tones.
Visage Beaute, Luminique and Prescriptives have also been offering products that can be blended to complement a wide range of skin tones.
Flori Roberts, co-founder of her signature skin-care company, pioneered the industry in 1967. Though competition sometimes means sharing the market, Roberts sees the new trend as a good thing for women. She hopes companies continue to diversify their offerings.
