STYLE : FASHION : Mad About Plaid

If it’s fall, then it must be time for plaid. Since trees began shedding leaves, there has been no more obligatory pattern ringing in the season than the clannish patterns of the British Isles. But now, designers are taking educated risks by mixing a back-to-school tradition with rule-breaking concepts.

“One used to think of plaids as heavy wools in basic colors. Designers are now using contemporary ideas like bright colors and contrasting fabrications like georgette, rayon and stretch to make plaid fun and modern,” says Robert Rosenthal, fashion director for Macy’s South and Bullock’s.

Styling is important, too. Pleats are a traditional treatment, but this year they’re short and flirty takeoffs on the age-old kilt--worn with a ribbed turtleneck and tights or over a catsuit and a pair of ankle boots. Stretchy sleekness shows up in cotton blended gauze, denim and knit sportswear separates and hosiery. And even little-girl taffeta-and-velvet takes on a sophisticated twist in eveningwear.

“Plaid can be worn any number of ways--from head to toe, all mixed up, matching or as an accessory accent,” Rosenthal adds. “We think it will continue into the holidays, covered in sequins or shot with metallic.”

Hair and makeup: Sharon Gault/ Cloutier; model: Dina Livingston/Elite; plaid dog jacket and leash courtesy of Critter Caterers, Beverly Hills