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With apologies to Arthur Frommer, the title...

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With apologies to Arthur Frommer, the title of today’s treatise is “Ireland on $22 a day,” which is what Dilly Griffey charges for accommodations/breakfast at her farmhouse in Crusheen, called Lahardan House (less than an hour by car from Shannon Airport). Or if you prefer, you can stay the week for only $210, which includes dinner as well as bed and breakfast. Several years ago I told a friend about Dilly’s. He packed up and moved to Ireland and took a room in Dilly’s house, where he remained until he died. He figured it was cheaper than living in Burbank. And a heck of a lot prettier. Another friend visited Dilly’s recently with his family. He came home raving about the warmth, hospitality.

I still recall Dilly’s huge breakfasts. And her evening menu changes daily. Lamb, steak, chicken, fresh salmon, Irish stew. Fresh eggs/milk, vegetables harvested that very day. And for dessert, Dilly serves strawberry mousse/sherry trifle topped with whipped cream. “Homey” best describes Dilly’s. This friend who visited the farm last month spoke of the “warmth of this fine old place.”

Dilly rents eight rooms. There’s this good cheer born of Dilly’s hospitality and that of her son Tom, daughter Mary and grandson Garry, a 17-year-old who waits tables and enchants guests with his Irish charm. I remember driving up a muddy path to Dilly’s. Cows were grazing in the field. Dilly stood at the door with a huge smile. Tea was brewing. Hot biscuits were on the stove. While Atlantic winds howled outside, Dilly’s guests gathered in the living room to sip wine and visit. Other times we’d slip away to a pub in the village.

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In Ireland, dozens of other farm owners take in guests. Several years ago they banded together and formed an association that extends from County Kerry to County Kildare, and from County Mayo to County Wexford. To reach Dilly, write to Lahardan House, Crusheen, County Clare, Ireland. Or for a listing of other members of Irish Farm Holidays, write to Mrs. Nancy Fitzgerald, Ashton Grove, Knockraha, County Cork, Ireland. For other details on Ireland, write to the Irish Tourist Board, 757 3rd Ave., 19th Floor, New York 10017, (800) 223-6470.

Canada’s Fairest Province: Nova Scotia (which I rate as Canada’s fairest maritime province) is mailing a free 288-page guide that’s filled with helpful information. Lists accommodations, restaurants, activities. Describes cities/villages throughout the province (reminds readers that this is the Acadian country of Longfellow’s “Evangeline”). Populated by Scottish Highlanders, Irish, German, British immigrants. You still hear Gaelic spoken on occasion. If not the prettiest land in Canada, Nova Scotia comes close. Uncrowded roads cling to the coast, dip through valleys throughout the entire 375-mile peninsula that juts into the Atlantic due east of Maine (only a short hop from Boston). Competes as an autumn pleaser with New England. “Leaf-peepers” are now out in force. Along with the autumn foliage, fall wildflowers are in bloom. A few years ago, I spent a memorable couple of days motoring along the Cabot Trail, which is likened to the Scottish Highlands and California’s Highway 1. Visiting the small villages of Nova Scotia is like returning to a serene moment in 19th-Century America.

For copies of the “Nova Scotia Travel Guide,” write to the Nova Scotia Information Center, 136 Commercial St., Portland, Me. 04101, (800) 341-6096, or the Nova Scotia Department of Tourism & Culture, P.O. Box 130, Halifax B3J 2M7, Nova Scotia.

French Polynesia: Cynthia Connors of Carlsbad asks about the freighter Aranui that travels between Tahiti and the Marquesa. Joan Wong of Tahiti Vacations (her in-laws own the Aranui) updated us on current fares. Rates for the 14-day round trip out Papeete range from $1,300 for deck space (bring a sleeping bag) to $3,495 for a deluxe cabin. Wong describes the voyage as “the trip of a lifetime.”

Meanwhile, Connors asked if the island Marlon Brando owns in Tahiti (Tetiaroa) still welcomes vacationers. Indeed it does. Several flights a week from Papeete. There’s a packaged deal ($395 per person, double occupancy) that includes the round-trip flight from Papeete, meals/accommodations for two nights (add $66 for the single supplement). Extra nights, $121/$149. There’s also a day tour ($285).

Tetiaroa, a cluster of a dozen coral isles about 25 miles north of Tahiti, is not for everyone. If you’re looking for action, remain in Papeete. On Tetiaroa, you sleep, swim, sunbathe, read. Tetiaroa is a world of freshly laundered skies, peaceful lagoons. The Milky Way lights up the night like Wilshire Boulevard on a busy evening. Tetiaroa is encircled by a single reef. Water the color of blue ink floods the lagoons, heaves against the reef. On Tetiaroa, Brando sells peace. It’s the paradise Gauguin was searching for when he sailed to French Polynesia.

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Details from your travel agent or Joan Wong, Tahiti Vacations, (800) 553-3477. Brochures, other information from the Tahiti Tourist Board, 6151 W. Century Blvd., Suite 1020, Los Angeles 90045, (213) 649-2884.

A French Chateau: George Ashton of Palos Verdes Estates asks: “Where should I stay in the Loire Valley?” My choice, as I’ve mentioned before, would be Chateau d’Artigny. This is the former home of the late French perfumer, Francois Coty, who created his chateau in the grand manner of French royalty. Coty wanted a chateau fit for a king, which is exactly what he created. From Paris, he delivered sculptors in chauffeured limousines to work on the chateau. Murals were done by famous artists. The staircase was twice rejected by Coty before he nodded his approval. Through the years, Chateau d’Artigny has been host to dozens of celebrities. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton spent the night in one of the chateau’s apartments, as did Princess Grace of Monaco.

For years, Chateau d’Artigny has offered shelter to tourists visiting the famous castles of the Loire Valley. The chateau is set on a hillside overlooking the River Indre, seven miles outside Tours, the capital of the Loire Valley. Forty-seven rooms and apartments. Magnificent gardens. A chapel that’s a copy of the one at Versailles. Coty had planned to remain forever in the peacefulness of d’Artigny. It was for this reason that he constructed an impressive crypt. Plans, though, went awry and his ghost has gone elsewhere. The last time I visited, the crypt was put to more lively use, serving d’Artigny as a discotheque!

It goes without saying that this is no ordinary inn by the side of the road. Chateau d’Artigny, Montbazon 37250, France. Rates: about $120/$250. Dinner is extra ($50/$70 per guest).

Hawaii Hideaways: In Hawaii, Creative Leisure International has wrapped up a new package involving 59 privately owned beach apartments/condominiums. Kitchens, dining rooms, maid service. It’s a seven-night deal for $577 (now through Dec. 14). Includes the round-trip flight from LAX, a rental car (unlimited mileage), continental breakfast, a cocktail reception each evening. Island hosts/hostesses provide details on luaus, fishing/sailing, volcano trekking. These and other activities. Condos/apartments are on Oahu, Maui, Molokai, Kauai, the Big Island.

Your travel agent or Creative Leisure International, 951 Transport Way, Petaluma, Calif. 94954, (800) 426-6367.

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Reader Recommendations

Hawaii--Ron and Kate Bauer, Ewa Beach, Hawaii: “On a recent visit to Maui, we came across a bed and breakfast along the western slopes of Mt. Haleakala. A studio with efficiency kitchen and a two-bedroom cottage with a full kitchen. Rates: $75/$90. Write to Ahinahina Farm Bed & Breakfast, Kula, Maui, Hawaii 96790.”

Washington--Mr. and Mrs. Gerry Walley, Temple City: “Diamond Point Inn, 241 Sunshine Road, Sequim, Wash. 98382-8713. A fantastic country retreat. Gourmet breakfasts, senior discounts. Rates: $55/$75.”

Canada--Ron and Phyllis Hess, Yorba Linda: “The Johnson House, 2278 West 34th Ave., Vancouver, British Columbia V6M 1G6. A super B&B.; Rates: $55/$85.”

England--Barbara and John Bayless, Mission Viejo: “Avon Lodge Guest House, 28 Castle Road, Salisbury SP1 3RJ. On the way to Stonehenge. Rates: $52.”

We regret that only a select few recommendations can be used. They must be brief (typewritten or printed). Only one recommendation per reader, please. Note: Recommendations will not be used unless prices and addresses are included.

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