America Celebrates

“We wish you Health, and good Fires; Victuals,

Drink and good Stomachs, innocent Diversion,

and good Company; honest Trading, and good

success; loving Courtship and good Wives, and

lastly a merry CHRISTMAS and a happy NEW YEAR.”

--Virginia Almanack, 1766 Stepping into Colonial Williamsburg is stepping into America’s past. Though worthy of a visit any time of year, Christmas in Williamsburg, Va., is sheer magic, a time so treasured by tourists that the limited accommodations are booked almost a year in advance.

And why not? The late December mood is not only traditional, but decidedly festive.

Of course, Williamsburg is far from the only place in America that has its own special way of celebrating the holidays. In traditional New England celebrations, there are still traces of Forefathers’ Day, which the Puritans celebrated instead of Christmas. In the Southwestern United States, they still celebrate the Hispanic Las Posadas and in the Northwest, new traditions for New Year’s have taken root.

But in Williamsburg, the atmosphere of a former time lives again in the parlors, taverns, shops--even along the bricked walks and paths. The ring of a blacksmith’s hammer, the sounds of fife and drum and the steady clatter of carriage horses provide the only soundtrack for this amazing restoration of an 18th-Century American village. The pungent smells of burning log fires mingle with the aromas of country-baked hams and brick-oven breads, perfuming the crisp wintry air.

The season is ushered in on Dec. 15 with the Grand Illumination. Huge bonfires and mulled cider keep the celebrants warm while cannons boom, musket shots reverberate through the night, and the historic area glows in the light of flickering candles placed virtually in every window. Dancers and fiddlers, madrigal singers and Christmas carolers, all add to the calendar of events that include a genuine 18th-Century ball in full costume, myriad concerts, recitals, exhibitions, lectures, fireworks and a host of colonial games.

Early Virginia was known for its “groaning boards” laden with good food and strong drink. Local delicacies--Virginia ham, venison, wild fowl, oysters, crabs and fish of all kinds--are still in abundant supply at the various taverns around town, teamed with the customary mincemeat and pecan pies, plum puddings, fruitcakes and every conceivable sweetmeat. And the spirits flow freely. Beer, ale, toddies, syllabubs, eggnog and wine cloud the present as the past beckons.

Though New England’s Forefathers’ Day, with its traditional celebratory foods, now blends in nicely with the Christmas season, it was not always so. In fact, the first New England Christmas was anything but festive.

First, the settlers had just arrived and were still living on shipboard. More to the point, the Puritans did not believe in Christmas, and for years, forced their viewpoint on non-Puritans, or “strangers,” as they were labeled.

By 1659, the Puritans had gone so far as to legally decree that “anybody who is found observing, by abstinence from labor, feasting or any other way, any such days as Christmas day, shall pay for every such offense five shillings.”

In the Southwest, where the December nights are scented by burning pinon branches, most illuminations and celebrations are fraught with religious meaning. The Hispanic influences are felt everywhere and Las Posadas is, aside from Christmas, a main event.

This holiday, Dec. 16 through Dec. 24, is celebrated with re-enactments of Mary and Joseph’s search for shelter. The candle-lit processions are quite moving and beautiful to watch.

Another significant celebration in the region is the Fiesta de Guadalupe. As the legend goes, in December of 1533, an Indian, Juan Diego, saw the Virgin Mother on a hill near Mexico City. She instructed him to have the bishop build a shrine to her on that very site. The bishop refused to believe that Diego had actually seen the Virgin Mother.

Three days later, at the same spot, the Virgin re-appeared. She instructed Juan Diego to pick the roses suddenly growing out of the barren hillside and take them to the bishop as proof. When he got to the bishop, he accidentally dropped the roses on the floor. An image of the Virgin Mary appeared among them. The bishop, needless to say, became a believer and the Lady of Guadalupe eventually gained status as the Patron Saint of not only Mexico City, but of the entire country.

In the United States, one of the best places to witness this celebration is Tortugas, N.M. As evening falls on Dec. 10, drumbeats sound throughout this Indian village, signaling the beginning of the fiesta. Fourteen masked dancers dance the night away while the image of the Virgin Mother is carried to the Casa del Pueblo.

At 7:30 the next morning, pilgrims gather to march the four miles to the top of Tortugas Mountain, 1,000 feet above. Mass is said at 11 a.m. and the faithful receive yucca stalks and blades of sotol root that serve as quiotes (staffs) for the trek back to town.

That evening, the village is alive with drums, songs and dances. The morning of the 12th, the Day of Our Lady of Guadalupe, begins with another Mass. The costumed dancers perform until noon, at which time the feasting begins.

The epitome of American New Year’s Eve celebrations is the countdown to midnight in Times Square, which dates back to 1907.

A more recent arrival on the scene, a mere 7 years old, is an event referred to as “Times Square of the West” held at the Space Needle in Seattle, Wash. Upwards of 25,000 people are expected at the party this year. Actually, there are four parties--three indoors, held on different levels, with the most formal (sit-down dinner, big band dancing) taking place in the revolving restaurant atop the Needle.

The main event, however, is staged out-of-doors. A live band starts the free entertainment around 9 in the evening. The countdown begins 92 seconds before midnight as a decoratively lit Space Needle elevator starts its slow ascent to the top. When it reaches the top, at precisely midnight 7,000 bulbs flash on, illuminating the structure in all its glory.

As exciting as these festivities may be, there are those who prefer to welcome in the New Year in a more sedate fashion. And, especially on this night of reflection and anticipation, nothing is more rewarding than making dinner for intimate friends.

You might also heed the folklore of the Scandinavians who settled in great numbers along Puget Sound in the early 1890s, and keep a head of cabbage in your kitchen overnight. Doing so, it is said, will bring you money all year long.

OYSTER AND SPINACH CHOWDER

3 1/2 cups (about 20) shucked oysters, with juices

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

1 1/2 cups chicken stock

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 large stalk celery, finely chopped

4 teaspoons flour

1/4 cup long-grain rice

1/4 teaspoon ground mace

1 1/4 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

2 cups fresh spinach leaves, stems removed, well-washed

3 cups whipping cream

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Strain oysters, reserving juices. Combine juices with wine and stock in large saucepan and heat to boiling. Reduce heat. Add oysters. Poach 3 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer oysters to small bowl. Cover and reserve. (Refrigerate if making far in advance.) Reserve liquid.

Melt butter in another saucepan over medium-low heat. Add onion and cook 1 minute. Add garlic and cook 2 minutes. Add celery and cook 3 minutes longer. Sprinkle mixture with flour. Cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes. Whisk in reserved poaching liquid. Heat to boiling. Add rice, mace and Worcestershire. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until rice is tender, about 15 minutes. (Soup may be made in advance up to this point and refrigerated.)

Meanwhile, using sharp knife, cut oysters crosswise into strips. Cut spinach into strips.

Add whipping cream to soup and heat to just below boiling. Cook, uncovered, 5 minutes. Add spinach and cook 4 minutes longer. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Stir in oysters and serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

491 calories; 378 mg sodium; 194 mg cholesterol; 39 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; .21 gram fiber; 72% calories from fat.

GRAPEFRUIT AND ONION SALAD

2 large grapefruit

1 red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings

Finely slivered zest of 1 orange

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Juice of 1 lemon

1/2 cup olive oil

Juice of 1 orange (about 1/4 cup)

Freshly ground pepper

Leaves from 1 bunch watercress

Peel grapefruit, removing all white pith. Cut each grapefruit crosswise into 1/4-inch thick slices. Cut each segment apart and place in serving bowl. (There should be about 3 cups.) Sprinkle top with onion and orange zest.

Mash garlic with salt in bowl. Slowly whisk in mustard, lemon juice, olive oil and orange juice. Pour over salad. Season to taste with pepper. Chill thoroughly. Decorate with watercress leaves and toss gently at table before serving. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

Each serving contains about:

450 calories; 172 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 81 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.85 grams fiber; 29% calories from fat.

ROAST GOOSE WITH FRUIT AND NUT DRESSING

1 pound dried prunes

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup dried apricot halves

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tart apples, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped

1 lemon

1 tablespoon slivered lemon zest

1 cup chopped pitted dates

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups finely chopped walnuts

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/3 cup Port, about

1 (9- to 10-pound) goose

Boiling water

2 tablespoons Cognac

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Soak prunes in hot water 5 minutes. Drain. Remove pits and slice prunes in halves. Combine prunes and wine in small saucepan. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Drain prunes, reserving liquid.

Combine apricots, orange juice and sugar in saucepan. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 15 minutes. Drain apricots, reserving liquid.

Place apples in large bowl. Toss in juice of 1/2 lemon. Add prune and apricot mixtures, lemon zest and dates. Cut 1 tablespoon butter into bits and add to fruit mixture along with walnuts, cinnamon and enough Port to moisten mixture.

Remove giblets and all loose fat from goose. Rub skin with remaining lemon half. Wipe out cavity and stuff with fruit-and-nut dressing. Truss. Pierce skin of thighs, back and lower breast with fork. Place goose, breast-side up, on rack in roasting pan. Roast at 425 degrees 15 minutes. Reduce oven to 350 degrees. Turn goose on its side and roast 1 hour, basting every 15 minutes with 2 tablespoons boiling water. Remove accumulating fat from pan with bulb baster.

Turn goose over and continue to roast 1 hour, basting every 15 minutes with boiling water. Increase temperature to 425 degrees. Turn goose over, breast-side up, and continue roasting until skin is crisp, about 15 minutes. Turn off oven.

Remove stuffing from goose and place in oven-proof bowl. Transfer goose to oven-proof serving platter and place both in oven with door slightly ajar. Skim any remaining fat from roasting pan and add reserved fruit liquids. Heat to boiling and cook until slightly reduced. Add Cognac and cook 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Serve with goose and dressing. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

1,680 calories; 156 mg sodium; 130 mg cholesterol; 54 grams fat; 268 grams carbohydrates; 43 grams protein; 9.29 grams fiber; 29% calories from fat.

CHOCOLATE ANGEL PIE

5 ounces semisweet chocolate

1/4 cup hot milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

Dash salt

1 3/4 cups whipping cream

Meringue Shell

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Chocolate curls for garnish

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot water. Add hot milk, vanilla and salt. Stir until smooth. Cool. Beat 1 cup whipping cream until stiff and fold into cooled chocolate mixture. Spread evenly in Meringue Shell. Refrigerate 4 hours.

Before serving, beat remaining 3/4 cup cream with powdered sugar until stiff. Spread over top of pie. Decorate with chocolate curls. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note : To make chocolate curls, scrape bar of chocolate with vegetable peeler.

Meringue Shell

3 large egg whites

Dash salt

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

2/3 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/3 cup finely chopped walnuts or pecans

Beat together egg whites, salt and cream of tartar in large bowl of electric mixer until soft peaks form. Slowly beat in sugar until meringue is very stiff. Beat in vanilla.

Spread meringue over bottom and sides of greased 9-inch glass pie pan, building up sides as high as possible. Sprinkle nuts over bottom. Bake at 275 degrees 1 hour. (If, after 10 minutes, sides start to sag, gently push back into place.) Turn oven off and let shell cool in oven 30 minutes. Cool completely on wire rack.

Each serving contains about:

518 calories; 144 mg sodium; 97 mg cholesterol; 37 grams fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; .3 gram fiber; 64% calories from fat.