Matsuno Brings Lyon to Little Tokyo

Tadayoshi Matsuno first opened his Lyon Restaurant 10 years ago in a remote section of 1st Street in Los Angeles. It was a tiny Franco-Japanese restaurant. Despite the fact that the whole restaurant seated only 15 people--at a counter--it soon achieved a cult-like following. Several years later Matsuno moved to larger, swankier quarters in Pasadena--and his customers made the pilgrimage east. But three years ago Matsuno fell ill and was forced to close the restaurant.

His fans will be happy to hear that Matsuno is alive and well--and back in business. His Grill Lyon is more like the first Lyon than the second; it’s a tiny 25-seat place (10 at the counter) on 2nd Street in Little Tokyo.

The menu is basically the same as the one at the other two restaurants, but the prices are lower. Entrees run between $13.75 and $15, fish from $9.25 to $10.25 and appetizers from $4-$4.75. “I am so lucky, all my customers have come back,” says Matsuno. “Pasadena is a little far, but this time we have plenty of parking and this time my prices are so cheap.”

TRUFFLES AND TROUBLES: “There’s a lot of snow in Europe and black truffles are just wildly expensive,” says La Toque’s Ken Frank. “The wholesale, rock-bottom price is $400 a pound. Two weeks ago they were selling for $225.” Nevertheless, starting Thursday Frank will feature a six-course, all-truffle, prix-fixe ($65) menu at his West Hollywood restaurant. It’s the ninth year Frank’s done it, but this year he’s making a change: The famous fresh truffle ice cream will be served a la mode over any of the restaurant’s desserts. “I don’t want to limit people to having to have fresh truffle ice cream just because they have the truffle menu.”

But the high cost of importing truffles isn’t the only thing on Frank’s mind. “September was the single worst month I’ve ever had,” he says. “It was unbelievable and I know it was the same for other people. They probably aren’t so ready to admit it because they aren’t as used to having hard times as I am. It’s always been the story of my life. I’ve just decided since this is my 13th year in business, I am going to get lucky.”

CLOSING?: The sign on the door says “Closed for Remodeling.” But the future of the Westwood Fettuccine Bar, a fixture on Westwood Boulevard for the last decade, is very uncertain. “It is going through reorganization, and the partnership is being dissolved,” says co-owner Angelo Peloni, who also owns La Bruschetta down the street. “I pulled out, so we are basically splitting the partnership.”

LIGHT FOOD?: From a press release from the San Ysidro Ranch in Montecito: “Executive chef Gerard Thompson is leading the restaurants in a new direction toward lighter, regional American cuisine.” Here’s a sample of the lighter menu Thompson created for New Year’s Eve: grilled New York State foie gras with warm black-eyed peas and Smithfield ham; roast rack of venison with maple, wild rice, pecan compote and cranberry red Bartlett pear chutney; grilled Maine Lobster with creamy Idahos, artichoke and sweet corn sauce; winter wild greens and warm Maytag blue cheese fritters with hazelnut vinaigrette, homemade fudge, pralines and chocolate dipped strawberries. Non-New Year’s light dishes include Cajun-fried calamari with red pepper, chile-seared meat loaf with grilled onions on sourdough, and grilled swordfish club on toasted brioche.

TEASER: What top L.A. restaurant is about to take over the now-shuttered La Serre? Stay tuned.