Harvesting Tasty Peas in Winter Is a Snap

While frozen peas and frozen pea-pods appeal to time-conscious cooks, shelling and stringing freshly picked peas haven’t gone out of style for legions of purists. Fresh peas are available year-round in North County, although the crops tend to be more plentiful in the winter.

Green (garden, or shell) peas or English peas, and Chinese pea-pods, also known as sugar peas or edible-pod peas, are two varieties widely cultivated in California.

Row upon row of vines bearing Chinese pea pods cover acres in San Luis Obispo County, the state’s main growing area. Chinese peas bear a purple flower and grow to a height of 3 feet, while snow peas, another common variety, produce a white or purple flower, and smaller pods.

For farmers like Peggy Evans of Atascadero, snap peas represent an important winter crop, even though it is labor intensive. Harvesting must take place three or four times a week during the growing season to ensure that the peas don’t become undesirably large.

Botanically a variety of the common pea, Chinese pea pods contain tiny peas inside long and flat pods instead of the fully-developed green bead characteristic of the garden pea. They can be served in their crisp, natural state. Care must be taken not to overcook the Chinese pea pods, or they turn limp.

English peas, on the other hand, must be shelled before eating. They are picked in the immature stage, when the sugar content is at its peak, for just a few extra days on the vine will cause the sugar to turn to starch. That is when they are dried for use in such dishes as pea soup.

One variety of sugar snap is the Sugar Mel pea, favored by grower Margie Oakes of Fallbrook. The Sugar Mel looks like a regular pea, but is completely edible, shell and all.

“If you pick them when they look like Chinese pea pods they’re not as sweet,” says Oakes. “You have to pick them when they’re a bit swollen, that’s when they’re at their sweetest.”

So sweet that they can be eaten raw.

“I only get to eat the sugar snaps when I’m picking,” says Oakes. “I never have any left over after I take them to market.”

Oakes, like many farmers, lost most of her crop to last year’s early freeze. She is limiting her plantings, although she intends to have plenty on hand for early spring.

The Imoto vegetable stand in the heart of Bonsall is best known for its strawberries. At this time of the year, however, Jane Imoto and her family grow and sell sugar snap peas. Imoto uses them in stir-fry dishes or just sautes them. Interest in the snap pea increases every year among consumers, she says.

“People are becoming more and more aware of fresh vegetables, and you can eat these raw.”

The Imotos pick peas daily, and will pick to order if they have enough. The current crop hasn’t been particularly large because of last year’s warm weather, Imoto says. She expects the season to last another month, however.

Although sugar snaps are the biggest seller for John Cantabrana of Vista, he also grows snow peas and English peas. Each year, he increases his acreage in response to the demand for his product at area farmer’s markets.

Peas are an excellent source of fiber, and of Vitamins A and C. Fresh, raw peas add color and texture to salads. Chinese pea pods can be eaten raw, and they are commonly used in stir-fry dishes. Chinese peas are available year-round at most major supermarkets. Most are grown in California, but some of the crop is imported from Mexico, especially during the winter. Sugar snaps are ideal for dips. When lightly blanched or parboiled, they can easily be stuffed.

Margie Oakes, Oakes Knoll Ranch, P.O. Box 252, Fallbrook, CA 92028. 728-9158. Sells only at Vista Farmer’s market. $2 a pound.

Imoto’s Strawberry Stand, 5256 South Mission Avenue, Bonsall. 726-9999. Hours 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, weather permitting. Half-pound bag of sugar-snap peas $1.

John Cantabrana, 555 Barsby St. Vista, CA 92083. 941-3258. Half-pound basket, $1.50 at area farmers markets.

Carlsbad Ranch Market, 6118 Paseo del Norte, Carlsbad. 438-3202. Chinese pea pods or snow peas, $2.99 a pound. Available year-round, price depends on availability.

Major Market, 1855 South Centre City Parkway, Escondido. 741-7827. Chinese pea pods, $3.79 a pound.