THE WINE LIST

Pointing to the tastevin cup dangling on Perry Van Hook’s chest, comedian Buddy Hackett said, “I see you got a dent in your badge.”

Van Hook is the sommelier at the Classroom, where he also assembled the wine list. Hackett’s wife, Sherry, is one of three owners of the institute and its pair of restaurants, which the Hacketts often visit.

Wine lovers will feel in good hands with Van Hook. Having operated a wholesale wine company for years, he knows a lot about wine, but the real bonus is that customers don’t pay extra for his expertise; the wine list is reasonably priced.

To start: aperitif wines such as 1990 Simi Chenin Blanc, $14; 1990 Phelps Gewurztraminer, $16, or a Maison Deutz Brut, $25, are easy on the wallet. For lighter dishes, wine lovers will delight in 1989 Hogue Cellars Semillon, $14, or 1990 Dry Creek Fume Blanc, $16, or 19 Chardonnays--only two priced above $30.

The Classroom’s wine list is a rare blend of more than 200 domestics and imports, including many half-bottles, permitting a sort of liquid grazing. There are a lot of finds here (1988 Meridian Cabernet, $19; 1989 De Loach Zinfandel, $16; 1985 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Ribeaupierre, $27) as well as older choices (1981 Chateau Gruaud Larose, $60, and 1983 Chateau Meyney, $35).

Also, Van Hook has a most intelligent by-the-glass program. He will pour anything on the list by the glass as long as he sells two glasses of it. He charges about one-fourth of the bottle price, so a 6 1/3-ounce glass of the sensational 1986 Hermitage La Chapelle from Jaboulet would run $15.

Corkage policy is fair, too. If you bring a wine that’s not on his list, the fee is $5, and Van Hook often waives the fee for special wines. (Naturally, it’s best not to bring something already on the list, so Van Hook suggests that patrons call ahead of time to discuss it.)

Completing the program are two dozen dessert wines in half-bottles or by the glass and a soon-to-be-expanded list of Cognac, Armagnac and single-malt Scotch.

This is a no-fooling list, Buddy Hackett excepted.