In Traction . . . and Enjoying It

Downtown, just east of Alameda Street, is Traction Avenue, a street that’s lent its name to both a fashion boutique and an art film--a symbol of downtown bohemian life. Lately, rising rents have pushed many of the neighborhood artists out; those that remain, however, have a new place to eat, just around the corner from the venerable Al’s Bar. Its name: Traction Avenue Cafe.

The cafe doesn’t look like a traditional artists’ joint--its stark, clean Gary Kanda design is more Melrose Avenue than Traction Avenue. Beautifully framed architectural drawings hang on pristine white walls; a free-floating pediment, like that of a Greek temple, hangs above the view into the kitchen. Standing watch over the room is a dramatic stylized tiki head that reaches practically to the ceiling.

Still, there is a laid-back art-hang feel to the place. Customers take their time with their food, often lingering over an iced cappuccino. And while the waiters and waitresses may not have the crisp efficiency of a West Side restaurant, they do seem like nice people--not at all overbearing.

Ultimately, though, the success of this place will depend on the food, sort of Japanese-California-Italian, which at this point needs time to develop. So far, the safest things are pasta dishes-- carbonara, bolognese, pescatora and tarako with cod roe and butter. The green salad needs work, but the ground-beef curry, despite the odd addition of sliced pimento-stuffed olives, is actually quite nice.

744 E. Third St., Los Angeles, (213) 680-3770. Entrees $6.95-$12.50.