Coming to Towns Across America: A Whirring Stream of Cycling Tours : Cross-state rides give participants a week of sightseeing for as little as $200.

Early September in Redmond, Ore., is usually one of the most peaceful times of the year. Tourist traffic no longer chokes the main highways, the children have returned to school, but the weather in this central Oregon town of 7,200 is still warm and sunny.

This year, however, the tranquillity will be interrupted by the arrival of 2,000 adrenaline-charged bicyclists from all over the nation, as Redmond plays overnight host to the weeklong pilgrimage known as Cycle Oregon, a 450-mile bicycle trek that each year explores a different section of the Beaver State’s byways.

Redmond isn’t the only town that will find itself invaded this year. From Cape May, N.J., to Lake Tahoe, from Fargo, N.D., to Florida, an estimated 35,000 people will mount bicycles for inexpensive, weeklong tours on rides sponsored by clubs, newspapers, state tourist departments and a growing assortment of budget-minded tour companies that provide guided, all-food-and-accommodations tours for as little as $300 a week.

The concept began 20 years ago in Iowa, when one columnist at the Des Moines Register challenged another to get back in touch with the “real” Iowa by bicycling across the state. The challenge was accepted, and the columnists invited their readers to join in. Within a few years, the ride, now known as RAGBRAI (for “The Register’s Annual Great Bicycle Ride Across Iowa”), was having to limit registration to 7,500.

These tours have become known as cross-state rides, after RAGBRAI. But today, many have abandoned the border-to-border concept, opting instead for loops or meandering excursions designed for scenery or pleasant cycling. One exception, in California, is the Double Cal 600, which crosses the state not once, but twice--in a challenging, 600-mile week.

The typical tour package, which can cost as little as $30, includes sag wagons (to carry riders or cyclists if either “sags”), route maps, water stops, group camping and--best of all--baggage transport. Many offer indoor, gymnasium accommodations for “floor floppers,” and food packages for as little as $10 to $15 a day. If a food package isn’t provided, meals are generally offered at reasonable prices by local churches or service clubs. There is often a modestly priced shuttle bus to carry riders back to the start or the nearest airport at the end of the ride.

None of these tours are races. There is no finish line, no time clock, no prize for being first except the possible dubious honor of being asked to help unload the baggage truck.

A decade ago, many cross-state tours catered to locals, urging them to get back in touch with the heartland flavor of their states. But now, says Libby Stalter, who coordinates the Oklahoma Freewheel and is secretary for the recently formed National Bicycle Tour Directors Assn., the trend is for people to use bike tours as out-of-state vacations. Of the 2,300 people who rode the Freewheel last year, she said, 30% to 40% were from out of state. RAGBRAI estimates that nearly half of its riders are now non-local, representing most, if not all, states, as well as about two dozen foreign countries.

Keith Lee, who works for the Minnesota-based company Cycle America, which sponsors 24 tours (including two in California; see sidebar on Page L23), says that a typical day on one of his rides begins early with the sound of a hundred tent zippers, as cyclists peek outside to see what the weather is likely to bring.

After breakfast, riders flow out of camp alone or in small groups, often riding with different people each day. On Cycle America’s rides, which generally have 100 to 300 participants, they quickly disperse, as some stop at points of interest along the way, while others pedal straight to the next camp. Meals on all of the rides tend to be simple but substantial.

“We try to stick to the basics,” Lee notes. “Great people, great scenery, great cycling. A gourmet meal does not necessarily enhance the cycling experience.”

Cross-state cycling isn’t merely a phenomenon of youth. “We think most everybody can do it,” says Lee. “Some of these people are older than my grandparents.” Stalter says that the average age for riders on the Freewheel is 42. Lee reports an average age of 37; Welch says the average on his tours has ranged from 44 to 47.

Here is a list of several dozen rides lasting four days or longer. There’s at least one ride every week between early June and mid-October. Some are already full--particularly in the West, where there seems to be a real popularity boom--but it’s not too early to start thinking about 1993. Many rides maintain a mailing list, and some rides fill very quickly after each year’s schedule is announced. More and more people seem to be discovering that bike touring is a great way to see the country--and where else can you get a weeklong vacation for as little as $300?

WEST Double Cal 600--May 9-16; rugged 600-mile, eight-day, figure-eight route beginning and ending in Sacramento, crossing state twice, featuring Lake Tahoe, Sierra Nevada, Napa Valley and San Francisco. Limit: 100; registration almost full. Fee: $295, includes most dinners. Contact: North Sacramento Rotary Club, Attn.: Bike Ride, P.O. Box 15083, Sacramento 95813.

Northern New Mexico Tour--June 7-13; 400-mile loop in vicinity of Santa Fe. Limit: 20, normally fills in mid-May. Fee: $499, includes six nights in motels. No meals. Contact: Lone Star Bicycle Tours, 1507 1/2 Nueces, Austin, Tex. 78701, (512) 474-2714.

RAW (Ride Around Wyoming)--June 14-19; 450-mile circuit of Wind River Range, starting and ending in Jackson. Limit: 200 (115 riders last year). Fee: $90. This year’s ride is filled. Contact: 18 Paradise Drive, Sheridan, Wyo. 82801, (307) 672-6323, to be put on the mailing list for next year.

Sierra to the Sea--June 20-27; 400-mile course from Mother Lode country of Sierra Nevada foothills to San Francisco. Be prepared for possible heavy traffic, temperatures of 100-plus. Limit: 100. Fee: $285, includes six dinners, bus to and from San Jose. This year’s ride is full. Contact: Almaden Cycle Touring Club, 6559 Camden Ave., San Jose95120, (408) 997-8176, for possible spot on waiting list and general information on the ride.

Ride the Rockies--June 21-27; Durango, Colo., to Castle Rock, Colo., 430 miles with four major passes. Limit: 2,000 (fills by lottery from applications received by Feb. 28). Fee: $130. Bus available. This year’s ride is full. Contact: Ride the Rockies, The Denver Post, 1560 Broadway, Denver, Colo. 80202, (303) 820-1338, for general information about the ride.

Washington Pacific Coast Tour--July 11-18; Blaine, Wash., to Kelso, Wash., 500 miles. Limit: 50 (will probably fill in June). Fee: $140, includes bus to and from Seattle. Contact: Fred Scheetz, 1200 Federal Ave. E., Seattle, Wash. 98102, (206) 323-0533.

Pedal for Power Bicycle Tour of Utah--Aug. 8-15; 500-mile loop through northern Utah. Limit 150 (110 riders last year). Fee: $75. Contact: Intermountain Consumer Power Assn., 8722 S. 300 W., Sandy, Utah 84070, (800) 872-5961 or (801) 566-3933.

Oregon Bicycle Ride--Aug. 16-22; Denio, Nev., to Gold Beach, Ore., 500 miles. Limit 275, starts taking applications in early March and fills in four to six weeks. Fee: about $275, includes most meals. Shuttle, $75. Contact: 1324 N.W. Vicksburg, Bend, Ore. 97701, (503) 388-0064.

The Santa Fe Trail Bicycle Trek--Sept. 20-Oct. 10; Santa Fe, N.M., to New Franklin, Mo., 1,080 miles. Route follows the historic Santa Fe Trail as closely as possible by paved public roads. No limit (42 riders last year, though not everyone went all the way). Fee: $160/week or $25/day. Riders can sign up for as many days as desired. Includes breakfasts and dinners. Contact: Willard Chilcott, 885 Camino Del Este, Santa Fe, N.M. 87501, (505) 982-1282. Almost Across Arizona to Mexico Bicycle Tour--Oct. 2-11; two routes, 8 or 9 days, 560-580 miles, Page to Nogales, Ariz., converging in southern Arizona. Optional one-day float trip on Colorado River. Limit: 125 per group; will probably fill by September. Fee: $300, includes most dinners, some breakfasts, bus from Phoenix or Tucson. Contact: P.O. Box 40814, Tucson, Ariz. 85733, (602) 887-5036.

Tour of Southern Utah’s National Parks--Sept. 13-19; 230-mile loop, with full days off in Zion and Bryce national parks. Limit: 45; this year’s ride is filled. Fee: $85 last year. Contact: Carl Ehrman, 3247 Bon View Drive, Salt Lake City, Utah 84109, (801) 278-9386.

Cycle Oregon V--Sept. 13-19; Eugene to Medford, 450-mile route. Limit: 2,000 (filling fast). Fee: $337, includes 21 meals, portable hot showers and nightly entertainment. Shuttle extra. Contact: P.O. Box 40268, Portland, Ore. 97240, (800) CYCLEOR.

MIDWEST Biking Across Kansas--June 6-13; west-to-east tour by three routes in north-central part of state; all about 500 miles long. Limit: 300 riders per route. Tour is extremely popular and fills by mid-February. Fee: $85 last year; includes indoor lodging, some meals. Bus from Kansas City or Wichita, probably $60-$70 round trip. Contact: Norma Christie, P.O. Box 8684, Wichita, Kan. 67208, (316) 684-8184.

BRAN (Bicycle Ride Across Nebraska)--June 7-13; Benkelman to Omaha, 447 miles. Route varies each year, always crosses state from west to east, ending near Omaha. Limit: 500. This year’s ride is full, but there is a waiting list. To apply for 1993, send SASE before Jan. 1 and send back registration form by return mail. Ride fills within one week of the time applications are mailed out in January. Fee: $50 this year. Bus $40 extra. Contact: Northwest Rotary, 10730 Pacific St., Suite 218, Omaha, Neb. 68114, (402) 397-9785.

CAMP (Cycle Across Missouri Parks)--June 14-20; Weston Bend State Park (near Kansas City) to St. Charles, about 400 miles. All nights in state parks or historic sites. Limit: 350 (250 riders last year). Fee: $150 (discount for families and children), includes breakfasts and dinners. Shuttle, $30 extra. Contact: American Youth Hostels, 7187 Manchester Road, St. Louis 63143, (314) 644-4660 or (800) 334-6946, days.

TOBRAW (M & M Tour)--June 15-19; Onalaska, Wis., to Milwaukee (TOBRAW stands for “The Other Bicycle Ride Across Wisconsin,” “M & M” for “Mississippi to Lake Michigan”), 300 miles. No limit (60 people last year). Fee: $35 (reduced from last year; includes choice of tent or gymnasium accommodations). Contact: Mel Welch, 3632 W. Maple St., Milwaukee, Wis. 53215, (414) 383-5563.

PALM (Pedal Across Lower Michigan)--June 20-26; west-to-east across Michigan by two routes, both running South Haven to Monroe, about 260 miles each. Because of its low mileage, this ride caters to beginners and families. Limit: 500 per tour (fills in mid-March). Fee: $70 for adults, $35 for children 11-16, $20 for children 10 or under. Meals can be bought individually or $42 for complete package. Bus available from several locations, $15-$35. Contact: P.O. Box 7161, Ann Arbor, Mich. 48107, (313) 665-6327.

GRABAAWR (Great Annual Bicycle Adventure Along the Wisconsin River--June 20-27; Boulder Junction to Prairie du Chien, Wis., 500 miles. Limit: 1,000 (600 riders last year). Fee: $140, including bus ($125 without bus) or $20 per daily segment. Most nights offer indoor option in gymnasiums. Contact: P.O. Box 6184, Madison, Wis. 53716-0184, (608) 256-2686.

GOBA (The Great Ohio Bicycle Adventure)--June 21-27; 350-mile loop in east-central Ohio. Limit 3,500 (2,700 riders last year). Fee: $80 (discount for families). Entertainment planned on each overnight stop. Contact: P.O. Box 14384, Columbus, Ohio 43214, (614) 847-TOUR.

TRIRI (The Ride in Rural Indiana)--June 21-27; 450-mile loop through southeastern Indiana, beginning and ending in Indianapolis. Spends each night in a state park. Limit: 500 (hasn’t filled in past, but expects to this year.) Fee: $160 (includes 12 meals). Contact: TRIRI, c/o Bloomington Bicycle Club, P.O. Box 463, Bloomington, Ind. 47402, (812) 332-6028.

SummerTour--July 11-17. Loop tour through north-central Michigan, 500 miles. Sponsored by the same organization that runs the highly successful DALMAC. Fee: $135, includes most meals. Limit 350 (150 riders last year). Contact: SummerTour, P.O. Box 17088, Lansing, Mich. 48901, (517) 394-6902.

TOBRAW--Door County Peninsula, July 13-17. From the extreme tip of Door County, Wis., to Milwaukee, 300 miles. No limit (60 people last year). Fee: $35 (reduced from last year; includes choice of tent or gymnasium accommodations). Shuttle from Milwaukee, $50 extra. Contact: Mel Welch, 3632 W. Maple St., Milwaukee, Wis. 53215, (414) 383-5563.

RAGBRAI--July 19-25. This is the ride that started it all, now in its 20th year. West-to-east across Iowa, about 500 miles. Limit: 7,500 by lottery from applications postmarked by April 1. Fee: $60 ($10 extra for souvenir pack of newspapers). For information and applications, send business-sized SASE before March 15 to RAGBRAI, P.O. Box 622, Des Moines, Iowa 50303-0622.

TOBRAW--Nicolet National Forest, July 26-31. New 300-mile loop in northeastern Wisconsin. No registration limit. Fee: $35 (includes choice of tent or gymnasium accommodations). Round-trip shuttle from Milwaukee, $100 extra. Contact: Mel Welch, 3632 W. Maple St., Milwaukee, Wis. 53215, (414) 383-5563.

BAMMI (Bicycle Across the Magnificent Miles of Illinois)--Aug. 1-8; Arlington Heights to Edwardsville, 500 miles. Limit: 500 (400 riders last year). Fee: $150 plus $75 minimum pledge; includes meals. Shuttle, $35 extra. Contact: Colleen Lawler, Chicago Lung Assn., 1440 W. Washington Blvd., Chicago, Ill. 60607, (312) 243-2000.

Shoreline Bicycle Tour--Aug. 1-8; follows Michigan shoreline by two 360-mile routes, one beginning in New Buffalo, the other in Au Gres, converging in Traverse City. Limit: 500 (west), 275 (east). Didn’t fill last year. Fee: $160, includes all meals except lunches. Bus: $30 extra. Contact: P.O. Box 16201, Lansing, Mich. 48901, (517) 323-7505 (west), (517) 892-2100 (east).

DALMAC (Dick Allen Lansing to Mackinac Bicycle Tour)--Sept. 2-7. Four- or five-day event, featuring options to suit almost every level of ability. DALMAC offers several route variations--including a four-day, 400-mile version--running most of the length of Michigan, culminating in an en masse crossing of the Mackinac Bridge. Limit: 1,700 (fills by May 1). Fee: $90 for the four-day event, $110 for five days. Includes most meals. Some options may add to the basic fee. Bus: $37.50 extra (includes two meals). Contact: DALMAC, P.O. Box 17088, Lansing, Mich. 48901, (517) 394-6902.

EAST Penn Central--June 20-27; Mansfield, Pa., to Cockeysville, Md., 300 miles. Includes 25 miles of abandoned railroads. No limit (44 last year). Fee: $110 (discount for children). Suppers, about $50 extra. Shuttle, $30. Contact: The Wayfarers, P.O. Box 73408, Washington, D.C. 20056, (202) 265-1418.

Cycling Jersey--Aug. 15-22; High Point, N.J., to Cape May, 220 miles. No limit (97 last year). This is a relaxed tour modeled on PALM. Fee: $100 (discounts for family and children). Suppers, about $50 extra. Shuttle, $30. Contact: The Wayfarers, P.O. Box 73408, Washington, D.C. 20056, (202) 265-1418.

SOUTH Oklahoma Freewheel--June 7-13; 420 miles, Duncan, Okla., to Joplin, Mo. Ride is now in its 14th year. No limit (2,300 last year). Fee: $30 ($75 for families of 3 or more), includes usual services; no meals. Contact: Tulsa World, P.O. Box 1770, Tulsa, Okla. 74102, Attn.: Freewheel, (918) 581-8385.

BRAG (Bicycle Ride Across Georgia)--June 13-20; Rossville to Augusta, 365 miles. No limit (2,500 attended last year). Fee: $50 (children and seniors, $35). Shuttle available. Contact: 887 Ryan Lane, Lilburn, Ga. 30247, (404) 279-9797.

Bike Virginia--June 19-24; Colonial Beach to Williamsburg, 250 miles (optional side trips can bring mileage as high as 370). No limit (1,000 riders last year). Fee: $110, includes entertainment. Shuttle, $25 extra. Contact: P.O. Box 203, Williamsburg, Va. 23187-0203, (804) 229-0507.

Cycle Across Maryland--July 26-Aug. 1; Frostburg to College Park, 300 miles. Limit: 1,500. Fee: $110 before May 1, rising to $125 thereafter. Meal package $75 extra. Shuttle (by train), $30. Contact: P.O. Box 21572, Baltimore, Md. 21208, (800) 842-BANK.

BRAT (Bicycle Ride Across Tennessee)--Sept. 20-26; Reelfoot Lake State Park (in northwestern Tenn.) to Standing Stone State Park (near Livingston), 460 miles. All nights but one are spent in state parks. Limit: 500 (filled last year). Fee: $50 last year, bus $35 extra. Contact: Program Services, Tennessee State Parks, 701 Broadway, Nashville, Tenn. 37243-0446, (615) 742-6675.

Florida Bicycle Safari--Nov. 7-12; 430-mile loop in central Florida. No limit, 450 riders last year. Three-day, 200-mile version also available. Fee: $90 for six days, $75 for three days. Contact: 11510 E. Colonial Drive, Orlando, Fla. 32817, (407) 273-2300, Ext. 192.

If the trips listed here--all four days--aren’t enough, there are undoubtedly others; new tours spring up each year. There are also a multitude of well-organized events run by such charities as the MS Society or the American Lung Assn. Entry fees for these events are generally low, but many require minimum pledges of $1 or more per mile. Check locally for information.

Choosing a Bike Tour

If a weeklong bike tour sounds like a good idea, but you’ve never done one before, selecting and preparing for a ride can be intimidating. Here are a few hints: - Don’t wait until the last minute to contact rides that interest you; many fill quickly. If the ride is full, however, don’t give up. There may be a waiting list or registrations may be traded through classified ads or notices in bike shops.

* Enclose a self-addressed stamped envelope with your request. It can save a lot of time. Some rides may not answer you without one.

* Feel free to ask questions if they aren’t answered in the brochure. What’s the traffic like? How hilly is the course? Will it be hot, cold or some of each? Are there guaranteed hot showers? What kind of bike repair facilities are available?

* Don’t expect to be pampered. The rides aren’t run by posh catering companies, and the workers--who may be unpaid volunteers--don’t like to be treated like employees. A good ride should be well-organized and prepared to help you in an emergency, but it isn’t designed to wait on you hand and foot.

* If you don’t know how to fix a flat, learn now.

* Check out the tour as best you can. A ride may look good on paper but not be for you. Try to tap into the word-of-mouth grapevine by asking at bike clubs or bike shops. Realize, of course, that opinions vary, as do rides from year to year.

* Train adequately and train early. If the course is hilly, train on hills. If it’s going to be hot, get used to heat.

* The same goes for boxing your bicycle if you have to go by airplane. Make sure that you know what’s required, and schedule enough time so you don’t panic.

* Wear a helmet. They’re required on most rides, and even if they aren’t, they save lives.

* Finally, expect to have one of the great adventures of your life and to make new friends whom you may keep in touch with for years to come.

How to ‘Cycle America’

One organization, Cycle America, conducts 23 rides in 21 states. Most of the rides are linked so that they can be combined into one of two summer-long treks--perhaps the ultimate in bicycle challenges. Riders are invited to take as many or as few segments as they desire, or to come back summer after summer to gradually complete the entire trek.

Cycle America’s Coast-to-Coast tour this year runs June 7 to Aug. 28, from Bellingham, Wash., to Portland, Me. There are 12 weeklong installments; each segment costs $200, with meals extra. Contact: Cycle America, P.O. Box 29, Northfield, Minn. 55057, (800) 245-3263.

Here’s the Coast-to-Coast schedule:

Washington--June 7-12; Bellingham to Newport, 487 miles. Meals $105.

Rocky Mountain--June 14-21; Newport, Wash., to Columbia Falls, Mont., 510 miles. Meals $130.

Western Montana--June 21-27; St. Mary to West Yellowstone (Glacier to Yellowstone National Park), 525 miles. Meals $120.

Eastern Montana--June 27-July 3; West Yellowstone to Sidney, 515 miles. Meals $120.

North Dakota--July 5-9; Sidney, Mont., to Fargo, 455 miles. Meals $90.

Minnesota--July 11-17; Fargo, N.D., to Wabasha, 525 miles. Meals $120.

Wisconsin--July 19-24; Wabasha, Minn., to Kewaunee, 437 miles. Meals $105.

Michigan--July 26-31; Ludington to Morenci, 412 miles. Meals $105.

Ohio--Aug. 2-7; Morenci, Mich., to Bessemer, Pa., 451 miles. Meals $115.

Pennsylvania--Aug. 9-14; Bessemer to Bath, N.Y., 394 miles. Meals $115.

New York--Aug. 16-21; Bath to Clintonville, 367 miles. Meals $115.

New England--Aug. 23-28; Clintonville, N.Y., to Portland, Me., 351 miles. Meals $115.

Last year, Cycle America inaugurated an 11-week “National Park” tour, beginning in Flagstaff, Ariz., and swinging north through an impressive list of national parks, including Grand Canyon, Yellowstone and Glacier. Riders may pick any number of segments at $200 apiece. The tour runs June 12 to Aug. 30:

Arizona--June 12-17; Flagstaff to Springdale, Utah, 356 miles. Meals $115.

Utah--June 19-24; Springdale to Hanksville, 262 miles. Meals $115.

Colorado--June 26-July 2; Cortez to Steamboat Springs, 506 miles. Meals $115.

Wyoming--July 4-9; Montpelier, Ida., to West Yellowstone, Mont., 282 miles. Meals $115.

Montana--July 11-16; West Yellowstone to West Glacier, 416 miles. Meals $115.

Rocky Mountain--July 18-24; West Glacier, Mont., to Newport, Wash., 472 miles. Meals $115.

British Columbia--July 26-Aug. 1; Newport, Wash., to Lynden, Wash., looping through southern B.C., 504 miles. Meals $115.

Washington--Aug. 3-8; Lynden to Astoria, Ore., 383 miles. Meals $115.

Oregon--Aug. 10-15; Astoria to Crescent City, Calif., 382 miles. Meals $115.

Northern California--Aug. 17-23; Crescent City to Tahoe City, 524 miles. Meals $115.

Central California--Aug. 25-30; Tahoe City to San Francisco, 364 miles. Meals $115.