A Budding Sweet Potato

Say “sweet potato” and most Americans think of a sweet, bright orange-fleshed root. It’s almost as dulcet as the marshmallows traditionally served with it at Thanksgiving. But in Asia, Polynesia, the Caribbean and Latin America, sweet potato means a turnip-shaped tuber with patchy, purplish skin and cream-colored flesh--in other words, the boniato .

A beauty it’s not, which may explain the boniato’s slow acceptance in North America. The tuber has a far more interesting flavor and texture than our sweet potato. Less sweet than the latter, it tastes uncannily like a freshly roasted chestnut. It’s also harder and drier than an American sweet potato, with a fluffy, starchy consistency similar to that of a baked potato.

The name boniato comes from the Spanish word for good or harmless. The tuber originated in Central America, where it goes by the name of camote . (And, to keep things confusing, it’s called batata in some other Spanish-speaking countries.) The early explorers of the Caribbean and Latin America encountered a bewildering array of new plants, many of them poisonous. The boniato was a mainstay of the indigenous peoples and, in a world of strange and sometimes toxic foods, this tasty, nourishing tuber must have made a welcome addition to the explorers’ diet.

So how did it reach Asia, where 90% of the world’s crop is grown today? Adventurer-scholar Thor Heyerdahl hypothesized that a pre-Inca people carried the tuber from Peru to the Easter Islands on balsa-wood rafts. From there it spread to Polynesia and Southeast Asia. And although most Americans have never heard of it, boniato is one of the world’s 10 most important food crops.

Our ignorance is likely to change. The explosive growth of the Hispanic community in North America has led to a proliferation of new foods, especially new root vegetables. Five years ago, when I wanted boniatos , I had to make a special trip to a Hispanic, West Indian or Oriental market. Today, I can find them in the produce section of my local supermarket.

When buying boniatos , look for hard, firm tubers, free of mold, tiny worm holes or soft spots. It’s normal for the skin to look patchy, but it shouldn’t be shriveled or wet. Boniatos range from the size of a lemon to that of a coconut. Store boniatos in a loosely sealed paper bag at room temperature and try to use within two to three days of purchase.

Boniatos can be cooked any way you would a potato or sweet potato. Popular methods include baking, boiling, steaming, frying, sauteing and pureeing. Bake boniatos at 400 degrees for one hour, or until easily pierced with a skewer. (The skin hardens during baking, so you can’t test them by squeezing.) Baking in the microwave takes about 15 minutes. A baked boniato is drier than a baked potato, so serve it with plenty of butter.

Boniatos are harder to peel than potatoes. I find a paring knife works better than a peeler. Once peeled, keep the tubers in water to cover until cooking, as the pale flesh discolors when exposed to air. The dense boniato takes longer to boil than a potato; figure on 25 to 30 minutes. Baked or boiled boniato should be served immediately, as the tuber becomes unpleasantly starchy if it sits for too long.

Boniato makes great cottage fries; slice as thinly as possible and fry as you would potato chips. (The oil should be heated to 350 degrees.) Serve the chips with a sprinkling of salt or powdered sugar. Fried julienned boniato makes an interesting alternative to shoestring potatoes.

Cubans combine boiling and frying to make a popular snack called croquetas. Boiled boniato is mashed with butter, formed into balls, then dipped in flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs. The balls are then fried to make crisp, sweet croquettes.

The chestnut-like sweetness of the boniato makes it a natural ingredient for desserts. I like boniato pie (made like a sweet potato pie) and boniato cheesecake. Rum and brown sugar are the logical flavorings for boniato desserts.

When serving boniato as a vegetable, figure on eight ounces per person. Boniato is rich in Vitamin A and has moderate amounts of Vitamin C and protein.

This dish could be thought of as a tropical version of potatoes au gratin. The sweetness of the boniato contrasts with the earthy tang of caramelized onions. Should boniatos be unavailable, the preparation is equally tasty with sweet potatoes or yams.

BONIATO BAKE

3 tablespoons butter

2 onions, thinly sliced to make 2 cups

5 to 6 small or 2 to 3 large boniatos (about 2 1/2 pounds)

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup whipping cream

About 4 cups chicken stock

1/4 cup bread crumbs

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in 10-inch oven-proof non-stick or cast-iron skillet. Add onions and cook over medium heat 4 to 6 minutes or until golden brown, stirring often.

Peel boniatos and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Stir boniatos into onions. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in whipping cream and enough stock to cover vegetables. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 20 to 30 minutes, or until almost tender.

Sprinkle boniatos with bread crumbs and dot with remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Bake at 375 degrees 20 to 30 minutes, or until stock is absorbed and top is crusty and brown. Makes 8 servings.