LOW-FAT BAKING : When Dad’s on a Diet . . .

Pineapple upside-down cake is one of those desserts that most people learn to love as kids. It’s a cake with a gimmick--and it tastes pretty good too. The only problem: Most recipes call for lots of butter in the batter. But this recipe is different--the only fat is the tablespoon of butter brushed on the pan. And, as tasters in The Times Test Kitchen found, the cake turns out tender and delicious. It’s the sort of upside-down cake that would make a terrific gift for Father’s Day--he’ll never guess it’s low fat.

The cake is so easy to make that it can be whipped up at the last minute and served warm.

When preparing the cake, stir the liquid and dry ingredients together just until blended--overmixing causes toughness. Also watch the baking closely. Bake only until the center of the cake tests done--overbaking causes dryness and toughness.

After baking, let the cake stand a few minutes, then loosen the edges with a knife. Invert the cake into a serving platter to reveal the fruit-and-sugar glaze. This cake is best when eaten warm. You may want to serve it with nonfat frozen yogurt or a dollop of low-fat whipped topping.

PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

1 tablespoon butter, softened

1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed

3 (8-ounce) cans pineapple slices in unsweetened pineapple juice

9 maraschino cherries

1 cup cake flour

3/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 cup thawed frozen egg substitute (equivalent to 1 egg)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon coconut extract

Brush bottom and sides of 9-inch square baking pan with butter. Sprinkle brown sugar over bottom of pan.

Drain pineapple slices reserving 1/2 cup juice. Arrange 9 pineapple slices on brown sugar in pan. Place 1 maraschino cherry in center of each pineapple slice. Puree 2 pineapple slices. Reserve remaining pineapple slice for another use.

Stir together cake flour, sugar and baking powder in bowl. In another container, combine 1/4 cup pureed pineapple, 1/2 cup pineapple juice, egg substitute, vanilla and coconut extract. Quickly combine liquid ingredients with dry ingredients, stirring just until blended.

Pour batter over pineapple in pan, spreading evenly. Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes or until cake tests done in center and is golden brown. Cool about 5 minutes.

Loosen cake around edges of pan. Place inverted serving platter over cake and turn both upside down. Shake gently, then remove pan. Slice into squares and serve warm. Makes 9 servings.

Each serving contains about:

221 calories; 103 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.3 gram fiber.