Devil Your Pleasure

The cooking term deviled is used to describe highly seasoned foods. In the case of deviled eggs, which make good Fourth of July picnic food, the degree of spiciness may be varied. But basic preparation is the same, beginning with hard-cooking the eggs.

For best results, eggs should be at least a week old. Very fresh eggs are difficult to peel after cooking, and the whites have a tendency to develop a greenish tinge.

Use a saucepan large enough to hold the number of eggs being cooked in a single layer (glass or enamel pans are preferred). After placing the eggs in the pan, add cold water to cover them by one inch.

Place the pan over medium heat and bring the water to a boil (covering the pan will speed the process). Reduce the heat and gently simmer the eggs, uncovered, 12 to 15 minutes. (Eggs directly from the refrigerator take slightly longer to cook.) Thoroughly cooking eggs eliminates any danger of salmonella enteritis.

Plunging the eggs immediately into iced water arrests the cooking, makes them easier to peel and prevents a green ring from developing around the yolk. Cool the eggs just enough to handle, however, because they are easier to peel while still warm.

To remove the shells, tap the eggs all over against a hard surface, then roll each egg between the palms of your hands to peel off the shell and inner membrane, beginning at the large end (where there is an air space). Peeling will be easier if you occasionally dip the egg in cold water.

Eggs that won’t be used immediately should be cooled in the water about an hour, then drained and refrigerated up to a week. Store hard-cooked eggs separately or mark the shells with an X.

If unmarked hard-cooked eggs accidentally get mixed with raw eggs, you can tell them apart by spinning each on a hard surface. Eggs that wobble are cooked; those that spin without wobbling are raw.

Once the eggs are peeled, use a clean, sharp knife, dipped in water (Step 1), to assure a smooth cut when you slice the eggs lengthwise in half (Step 2). Carefully remove the yolks, leaving the whites intact.

Lightly mash the yolks with a fork (Step 3), then moisten with just enough of a binder such as mayonnaise, sour cream or softened butter to hold them together.

Season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper. A multitude of additional ingredients may be blended in for flavor (Step 4): mustard, catsup, Worcestershire sauce, hot pepper sauce, chopped chives, parsley, basil, tarragon, caviar, anchovy paste, chutney or smoked salmon, depending on personal preference.

You can fill the egg whites with the mixture using a spoon, but a pastry bag makes the job a lot easier, and the finished eggs are more attractive. Beginners usually find a plastic-lined cotton bag about 12 inches long the easiest to handle.

Use a large decorative tip with a substantial opening, such as a No. 866. Place the tube inside the bag, pushing the tip through the hole at the small end until it fits snugly.

Fold down the top of the bag about 1 1/2 inches to form a cuff. Holding the pastry bag in one hand, use the other to scoop the yolk mixture into the bag (Step 5), filling it no more than half full.

Those using a pastry bag for the first time may find it easier to fold the tube end up against the bag--to prevent the contents from escaping--and place the pastry bag in a two-cup measure. Turn down the top around the outside of the cup.

Place the filled bag on a flat surface and push the contents down toward the tip with a pastry scraper or your hand.

Twist the top of the bag shut and, holding the bag near the tip end with the other hand, gently squeeze the top so the yolk mixture is released through the tip (Step 6). After filling an egg white, release the pressure, rotate the bag and tip sharply, then lift.

The filled eggs may be garnished with a sprinkle of paprika, sliced pimiento-stuffed olives (Step 7), parsley, capers or truffles. Refrigerate the eggs at least a half hour before serving.

Deviled eggs may be prepared several hours in advance, but for the best flavor and texture, remove them from the refrigerator a half hour before serving.