An Intimate but Wide-Ranging Tour of Europe : The 204-passenger Seabourn Pride visits French river towns and the heart of London.

One of the most comfortable ways to see Europe close up, with a minimum of packing and unpacking, is by ship. Until now, most travelers had to decide between a leisurely river or canal cruise for an intimate look at a small area, or a wider-ranging ocean cruise that covered more territory but did not always come in for close-ups. An ideal solution is a combination of the two.

We found such a cruise in May aboard the Seabourn Pride from Seabourn Cruise Line, which included sailing along some of the great rivers of France, a two-day overland tour through the chateau country of the Loire, a visit to Mont St.-Michel, a day in Paris, stops in Hamburg and Amsterdam, and a spectacular finale--sailing under the Tower Bridge into the center of London.

Although we thought we knew France, this cruise introduced us to two charming towns we had somehow missed before--La Rochelle and St.-Malo.

We began in Bordeaux with a couple of days for wine tasting, then sailed out along the Gironde estuary in sparkling sunlight, passing some of the most famous vineyards and wine chateaus in the world--Mouton Rothschild, Latour, Beychevelle and Margaux.

Next came a delightful day in the medieval town of La Rochelle. We wandered through a fish market heaped with strange and unfamiliar shellfish, then headed for an offbeat pair of museums, one for miniatures such as model cars, ships and trains, the other featuring automatons (mechanical dolls) from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, including one that could write a love letter in French in elegant penmanship.

In St.-Malo, the Seabourn Pride negotiated a lock and then docked at the gates of the medieval walled city, which had been destroyed during World War II bombings and completely rebuilt. St.-Malo was also our gateway to the stunning hilltop abbey of Mont-St.-Michel.

Sailing along the Seine to Rouen, the ship passed towns and villages, each with its own church spires, lush green meadows where cows grazed and distant fields of vivid yellow rapeseed. Walking tours of the old town included a visit to the famous cathedral and the market square where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake.

Most of the shore excursions were complimentary, and free shuttle buses were provided in many ports for easy access to the center of town. In Rouen, a day shuttle to Paris was available at no extra charge. Even the two-day tour of the Loire chateau country was included in the basic fare, although neither the restaurants en route nor the hotel in Tours could compare to the ship.

The Seabourn Pride is wonderfully luxurious, with some of the best food and service at sea. Even after several forays ashore to one- and two-star Guide Michelin restaurants, we returned gratefully to the ship and the dazzling cuisine of chef Alfred Osanger, who shopped in the local markets in every town to bring back treats such as fresh berries, artichokes and fat spears of white asparagus.

A typical evening menu might include malosol caviar with blinis, goose-liver terrine, Tuscan white bean soup, gazpacho, Caesar salad, grilled fresh sea bass with red wine butter, fresh Maine lobster, veal chop with Gruyere and tomato, roast pigeon with chanterelles, currants and celery, fillet of beef with truffle sauce and herb crust, and for dessert, homemade ice creams and sorbets, cherries jubilee, hot macadamia nut souffle with Tia Maria sauce and tiramisu .

Seabourn suites, the standard accommodation on board, are 277 square feet with picture window; queen-sized or twin beds; a sitting area with sofa, chairs and a coffee table that converts to dining height; a marble bathroom with tub, shower and twin basins; walk-in closet; safe; hair dryer; in-room bar and TV with VCR.

The entertainment aboard is sophisticated, from the stylish pianist-singer Rene Martel, who presided in The Club before and after dinner, to a pleasant young foursome called the Styleliners, who performed show tunes in the show lounge. There is a small casino is on board, as well as a boutique, sizable spa and beauty shop with a full range of services.

At 10,000 tons, the 204-passenger Seabourn Pride is larger and more spacious than yacht-sized luxury vessels such as the 4,250-ton, 116-passenger Sea Goddess ships. Seabourn is priced at the top end of the luxury market with fares of $486-$666 a day per person, double occupancy, including air fare and hotel overnights at embarkation ports.

Seabourn’s new president, Larry Pimentel, thinks the ship’s higher prices are well-justified by its cabin space, high-quality food and service, and extras such as stocked cabin bars, free shore excursions and a no-tipping policy

A very similar 14-day air/sea package is scheduled aboard the Seabourn Pride for May 13, 1993, beginning with two days in Bordeaux aboard the ship, with time to explore the vineyards and chateaux of the area, then a day and evening in lovely La Rochelle, a day in Nantes, and an English Channel crossing to Fowey in Cornwall, where an Iron Age castle remains from the days of King Arthur.

The ship then returns to the 12th-Century walled city of St.-Malo in Brittany before sailing along the Seine to Rouen, then across the channel again to cruise up the Thames, under the Tower Bridge and into central London.

Prices for the Seabourn suites are $7,300 per person, double occupancy, plus $350 add-on for economy-class air fare from Los Angeles to Bordeaux. An overnight in Bordeaux at the handsome Hotel Burdigala in the heart of town is also included.

A 12-day transatlantic crossing from Ft. Lauderdale to Bordeaux, calling in Ponta Delgada, Azores, can be added at a 50% discount, bringing the cost of the 23-day package to $10,255 per person, double occupancy. Departure date from Ft. Lauderdale is May 1.

For brochures or more information, contact a travel agent or call Seabourn at (800) 351-9595.