Steakhouse Dishes Up Lots of Traditional Fare

Bamford may be just 18 months or so old, but the exterior design of this San Marcos steakhouse makes it look to have been standing for a century or so, and the menu, a faithful reprise of time-favored Southern California beach restaurant-steakhouse favorites, also adds an aura of age.

Built at the far end of a rustic-style commercial center, Bamford more or less resembles a Wild West army stockade. The mood continues inside with the music (the radio, which broadcasts throughout, is tuned to a country-Western station), although the decor and feel of the place are almost unnervingly Midwestern. With its deep booths, heavy wood furniture and efficient but folksy service, Bamford easily could double as one of the “supper clubs” typical in rural Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa and similar locales.

The emphasis on prime rib more or less encapsulates the thrust of the menu in a single dish, and not without reason, since the restaurant advertises its focus as “beef and spirits.” There are no surprises here, except perhaps that some of the preparations are better than at similar establishments. But it is only fair to note that, at the same time, some fail to display the same quality found elsewhere.

The prime rib, in fact, failed to impress in any area except size, which was indeed substantial--although, after fat, gristle and bone had been cut away and discarded, the amount of meat remaining was sufficient but not unusually generous. The flavor might best be described as average; it seems to have been long forgotten that the roast described as “prime rib” is supposed to be uniquely flavorful, and tender, too. The truth is that the name itself is generally a misnomer, since what is really a standing rib roast is only “prime” when the meat is of officially graded prime quality. This particular cut lacked the signature taste of true prime.

The menu plays the prime rib theme for quite a while, offering “English cut” (thinly sliced), a petite cut at just $9.95, a full, bone-in serving for $16.95 and a second bone-in offering noted as “enough for two” and marked at $18.95. This would seem an exceptional bargain, but it is in fact just the regular full serving divided for two diners; the extra $2 covers the cost of salad and potato for the additional guest.

Steaks follow on the entree list, commencing with filet mignon and moving along to New York sirloin, top sirloin, beef brochette and carne asada . A couple of these were tried and found, again, to be good enough but by no means exceptional.

e New York, available plain or with creamed green peppercorn or garlic sauces, may be best off in an unadorned state, since the garlic sauce consisted of a thin, brown gravy of no pedigree that had been mixed with at least a tablespoon of minced garlic. The garlic appeared to be the pre-cut kind available in jars, but freshly done or not, this quantity of garlic is by no means amusing.

The top sirloin, should you order it finished with the optional garnish of mushrooms and onions, will again be moistened with that same brown sauce. The meat is better plain, and the kitchen seems adept at cooking it to the degree of doneness requested.

Plate garnishes include the Big Three typical of such menus: baked potatoes, rice “pilaf” and steak fries. The first two are average, while the fries, huge skin-on wedges cut from fresh spuds, are better than usual.

The entree list also mentions various combinations (prime rib and lobster, steak and shrimp tempura, and so forth); several basic seafood offerings; chicken breasts (from basic teriyaki-style to a breast topped with crab, avocado and the house version of sauce bearnaise), and pastas.

Appetizers belong somewhat to the deep-fried snack school, although the fried zucchini sticks--freshly cut, hefty, tender and flavorsome--are much better than elsewhere. Choices continue with spicy chicken wings, squid and stuffed potato skins (like the zucchini, all served with a dip of “ranch” dressing), as well as shrimp cocktail and sauteed mushrooms.

Meals include soup or salad, the latter crisp and fresh, and served with commercial dressings but nonetheless good. One day’s soup, described as Manhattan-style clam chowder, oddly contained cream as well as tomatoes, which equivocated between the New England and New York renditions.

Bamford

Grand Ave. near San Marcos Blvd., San Marcos Calls: 744-9556

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily

Cost: Entrees $10.50 to $27; dinner for two, including a glass of wine each, tax and tip, about $35 to $70