Summertime and the Filo is Easy . . .

Summer entertaining comes naturally with balmy weather. Simple grilled meats, fish or vegetables are always appealing, as are overflowing main-course salads on the hottest days. Desserts of fresh seasonal fruits or berries paired with sugar cookies, and perhaps a scoop of frozen yogurt or ice cream, more than satisfy.

The appetizers for pared-down summer meals are the most difficult aspect of the season’s entertaining. Straightforward as the menu may be, we still want a starter that is interesting, fresh and full of flavor that will stand up in the heat.

Filo dough is a good solution to this challenge, transforming the simplest ingredients into attractive crispy crusted packages. Filo dough is tissue-thin, most commonly used in sweet and savory Greek and Near Eastern recipes. Packaged frozen filo dough is available in supermarkets; fresh filo dough, easier to handle, can be found in Greek markets.

If you have been frustrated by filo dough in the past, never fear. The following recipes do not involve small, tedious packages; each appetizer shape serves six to eight people. Often two sheets are used as one, resulting in less effort and fewer splits in the fragile dough.

Olive oil spray makes the assembly easy; it’s so much quicker to spray the layers than to brush each with melted butter. The fat content is also considerably reduced. Don’t worry about the tears in the filo that will inevitably occur as the dough is handled; each recipe has at least four layers, so these imperfections will be covered. No one will ever know.

The flavorful recipes that follow can be done ahead; two can be totally prepared in advance and frozen while the sweet onion-tomato tart with fresh basil can be partially prepared and frozen (save the layering of the tomatoes for baking time).

The garlicky potato strudel with goat cheese is for potato (and garlic) lovers, good to the last crumb. The quesadilla pie is southwestern in spirit. It is easier to wrap the ingredients in filo and bake them than to make individual quesadillas stove top, as they are typically done. Serve these recipes hot, warm or at room temperature, depending on the weather; they’ll stay crisp, no matter what.

The onions bake into a sweet mass, a complementary base for the basil-marinated sliced tomatoes. Can be prepared ahead to the point of putting the onions into the pastry and frozen, wrapped airtight (do not thaw before baking). This tart also works well as a vegetable option on a buffet since it’s delicious served at room temperature.

SWEET ONION-TOMATO TART WITH FRESH BASIL

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon water

2 large sweet onions, thinly sliced

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

Salt

8 small ripe plum tomatoes, about 1 pound total, ends trimmed, thinly sliced

1/3 cup finely julienned fresh basil

Freshly ground pepper

6 sheets filo dough, thawed

Olive oil spray

3 tablespoons bread crumbs

1/2 cup minced Parmesan cheese

Crushed hot red pepper, optional

Julienned fresh basil and snipped chives for garnish

Lightly grease 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring often, until some onions are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add water, 1 teaspoon sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook until mixture is light brown, about 5 more minutes. Transfer to metal baking pan. Place in freezer to cool as quickly as possible, stirring often. Onions must be completely cooled before being placed in tart.

Place tomatoes, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1/3 cup basil, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and pepper to taste in mixing bowl. Toss gently to combine. Let stand at room temperature until ready to use, no more than 1 hour.

Place 2 filo sheets together on dry work surface. Cover remaining sheets with damp towel. Spray filo surface with oil. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon bread crumbs. Repeat with next 2 filo sheets. Top with remaining 2 sheets filo. Compress gently with hands.

Lift filo layers together and place over prepared tart pan. Gently ease into sides of pan. Use kitchen shears to trim filo dough, leaving 1-inch overhang. Fold overhang firmly into tart pan. Lightly spray filo surface, including edges, with oil.

To assemble, evenly sprinkle remaining bread crumbs and 3 tablespoons cheese on bottom of tart. Add cooled onions, spreading them evenly. Sprinkle onions with 3 tablespoons cheese.

Use slotted spoon to remove tomato slices from accumulated liquid. Overlap slices over onions in concentric circles starting from outer edge, making attractive design. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place pan on baking sheet and place on lower third of oven at 375 degrees. Bake until tomatoes are browned around edges, about 50 minutes--slightly longer if frozen. Garnish tart with crushed hot pepper, julienned basil and snipped chives. Remove sides of tart pan. Gently transfer tart from base of pan to cooling rack. Let stand 15 minutes, if serving warm. Transfer to serving platter. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 6 side-dish servings.

Each serving contains about:

238 calories; 293 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.76 gram fiber.

QUESADILLA PIE

8 ounces Jack cheese, shredded

8 ounces brick cheese, grated

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/3 cup cilantro leaves, minced

2 tablespoons flour

2 medium Italian plum tomatoes, shells only cut into 1/3-inch dice (about 1/2 cup total)

2 large green onions, thinly sliced

Dash crushed hot red pepper

10 sheets filo dough, thawed

Olive oil spray

1 tablespoon bread crumbs

Salsa

Lightly grease 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Have ready baking sheet large enough to hold tart pan. Set both aside.

Place Jack and brick cheeses, cumin, cilantro, flour, diced tomatoes, sliced green onions and crushed pepper in large mixing bowl. Toss to combine.

Place 2 sheets filo dough together on dry work surface. Cover remaining sheets with damp towel. Spray filo with oil. Sprinkle filo with 1 teaspoon bread crumbs. Repeat with next 2 filo sheets. Top with 2 more sheets. Compress gently with hands. Lift 6 layers together and place over prepared tart pan. Gently ease into sides of pan.

Place cheese mixture in filo. Spread evenly. Place 2 filo sheets on top of cheese mixture. Spray filo with oil. Sprinkle with remaining crumbs. Top with last 2 sheets. Use kitchen shears to trim filo dough, leaving 1-inch overhang. Lightly spray oil over surface. Fold overhang over onto tart, making decorative edge. Spray edge with oil. (Can be frozen as long as 2 months, wrapped airtight. Do not thaw before baking.)

Place pie on baking sheet and bake in lower third of 375-degree oven until pastry is nicely browned, about 35 minutes--slightly longer if frozen. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Cut into wedges. Serve with salsa. Makes 6 side-dish servings.

Each serving contains about:

414 calories; 539 mg sodium; 69 mg cholesterol; 25 grams fat; 27 grams carbohydrates; 22 grams protein; 0.17 gram fiber.

Here, filo leaves wrap around thin potato slices that sandwich goat cheese and diced tomato. The strudel can be served hot, warm or at room temperature. The assembled strudel can be frozen up to two months, wrapped airtight. Do not thaw before baking.

GARLICKY POTATO STRUDEL WITH GOAT CHEESE

7 small white potatoes, about 3/4 pound total, scrubbed, cut into 1/8-inch slices

2 tablespoons light-tasting olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon julienned fresh basil

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

Generous 1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash crushed hot red pepper

2 ounces soft goat cheese, cut into small bits

1 small Italian plum tomato, shell only cut into 1/4-inch dice

6 filo leaves, thawed if frozen

Olive oil spray

2 tablespoons bread crumbs

Combine potato slices, oil, garlic, basil, rosemary, thyme, salt and crushed pepper in large mixing bowl. Toss well.

Place sheet of plastic wrap that is 4 inches longer than filo on work surface. Place 1 sheet filo on plastic wrap. Cover remaining sheets with damp towel. Spray filo with olive oil. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon bread crumbs. Cover with another sheet of filo, spray with oil, sprinkle with crumbs. Continue layering in that order, ending with crumbs.

Drain any liquid from potatoes. Arrange half of potato slices in 2-inch-wide row down long side of filo. Evenly scatter diced tomato and goat cheese over potatoes. Arrange remaining potatoes over this layer. Using plastic wrap to help you, make 1 turn of filo so potatoes are covered. Tuck potato slices in and neaten roll, then finish rolling up into compact roll. Cut in half. Spray strudel with oil.

Place strudel on greased baking sheet and bake in lower third of 375-degree oven until golden, about 40 to 45 minutes--slightly longer if frozen. Cool on rack. Cut strudel at angle into 1-inch-wide slices. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature. Makes 8 appetizer servings.

Each serving contains about:

150 calories; 169 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.25 gram fiber.