Directions : Launching a lingerie empire from a garage . . . a little black dress gets pricier . . . pins point the way. : So Relax Already
We are probably well advised to listen to Mimi Levitas-Cox when she says we’re in the midst of a four-year knitwear cycle. This designer, who led the charge in the contemporary suit trend about five years ago with her Opera-label collection, knows the importance of keeping her finger on the pulse of the market. Right now, she says, people are into ease, simplicity and comfort in all areas of their lives, especially in clothes.
Levitas-Cox closed Opera last fall, and is now chief designer for CPX, owned by Group B, which also owns Componix.
She is creating cotton knitwear with embellishments such as novelty buttons. “Plain with a personality,” is the way she describes it. The bodysuits, cardigans, leggings and skirts sell for $40 to $150 each and are found in available at major department stores. “The customer wants things she can wear to work and to play. If she’s going to spend $200 on an outfit, she must be able to wear it to the office as well. It can’t be one-dimensional.”
Under Control
California is one of the few places a designer can start a business from the back of a station wagon or the top of a kitchen table and become an overnight success. The latest to spring from her back yard to Barneys is Kathy Arthun, a Minnesota transplant who designs spunky lingerie.
“I was encouraged by reading stories about people starting out of their garages, like Robin Piccone. It made me think ‘I can do it too,’ ” says Arthun, as she sorts eyelet, denim, gingham and bandanna print bras, shorts and bustiers in her Hermosa Beach garage.
She started her business 1 1/2 years ago with seed money from a generous uncle. This year, Arthun expects to sell about $600,000 worth of her lingerie, priced from $16 to $45, at Barneys New York, Henri Bendel, Nordstrom, Fred Segal and Street Legal.
Wardrobe shoppers for the TV series “Beverly Hills, 90210” snapped up pieces for characters to wear as outerwear. When Arthun dropped off samples at the set of “Melrose Place,” the show’s casting directors liked Arthun as much as her clothes--they asked her to be an extra in the show’s pilot. She spent the rest of the day eating French fries in a cafe scene.
Something of Value
While many designers are lowering their prices, Jennifer Joanou is raising hers. The new prices--from $290 to $610--represent a return to higher sales tickets for Joanou. “We tried going less expensive, about 10%-15% lower, and found it wasn’t what my customer was looking for,” she explains. “I’ve gone back to where I was.” The cost of fabric is largely responsible for the shift, she says.
Still, she isn’t ignoring the cost-conscious mood of the moment. Among the most versatile items in her new line are her sleek sheaths with romantic necklines. These are wardrobe basics with a twist. “My collection is about little black dresses that aren’t necessarily black,” Joanou says.
Anyone who’s ever looked for an all-purpose dress in a good fabric and serviceable color--such as navy or olive--will know exactly what she means. Her dresses and sportswear, which are found in her La Brea boutique and better stores, have clean lines and are made of durable, luxurious fabrics, including heavy silk and light wool crepe.
Joanou’s fall collection struck a chord with New York’s Bergdorf Goodman, which swiftly ushered her designs into its new little black dress area--just the black versions, of course.
Glass Act
Anita Hill wears one. Dianne Feinstein raised campaign contributions by selling them to supporters. And they’ve been spotted on Barbara Boxer and activist/philanthropist Peg Yorkin. They’re “The Glass Ceiling . . . Shatter It!” pins and earrings made of fused shards of glass and 22-karat gold. The politically correct pins symbolize the need to break the invisible promotion barrier to women in the workplace. The idea came about when Susan L. Harris, a former administrative manager, was inspired by a speech given by feminist Betty Friedan.
Harris hired a Laguna Beach artist to handcraft the pieces and, since their Christmas debut, has sold or given 1,500 of the $40 pins and 400 of the $45 earrings to women’s political groups and individuals.
“This has taught me what it’s like to get involved with something that has meaning,” Harris says. “I feel like I’m putting my money where my mouth is.” The jewelry is available by mail order only through Susan L. Harris Creations in Manhattan Beach.
Broadway Bound
Mark Eisen, a South African native who carved out a $14-million business here during the last four years, is packing his bags for New York. After spending only six weeks in California this year, Eisen realized he needed to be closer to his fabric suppliers and the heart of the market.
His move coincides with the fall introduction of Mark E., a lower-priced, secondary line that recalls his earliest success. He styled white denim career wear with a California-meets-Chanel kind of sensibility. The designer credits his “California state of mind” for the look: “It’s the mix of elegance and activity.”
The new line features sophisticated black and white denims decorated with gold buttons and top stitching. Pieces are half the price of his signature line ($250 versus $500 for a typical jacket) and can be found at Neiman Marcus, Jona and Modasport.
