Clothing for a Class Act : Diverse Styles Influence Wardrobes as Teens Set New Trends in School Fashions

Teens in North County putting together clothes for school are drawing freely from the cultures all around them: the anything-goes styles on the coast; the more earthy, Western influences inland; street-smart city looks of San Diego and Los Angeles; ethnic looks from around the world.

Most end up with a wardrobe that is both fun and comfortable--some done expensively and others without spending a lot.

“The kids are setting the pace,” said Nordstrom retail clerk Kris Kissner of the North County Fair store. “Our buyer is looking at the streets.”

Most favored is the layered look, focusing on a creative piecemeal of T-shirts, tailored shirts, funky vests and hooded jerseys. Denim is bigger than ever--a popular choice being baggy jeans in vivid fall colors paired with black leather oversized jackets. And there are new versions of looks from the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s, such as chunky leather shoes.

While unisex dressing is not new, it is more popular than ever. Girls are buying guy’s clothing and simply converting sizes--even when it comes to shoes. Along with the unisex look, there is a strong cross-cultural trend.

“A lot of this stuff is retro, but it is new to this generation,” said Bryant Johnson, who owns A Taste of Culture, two carts that feature ethnic fashions in Plaza Camino Real Mall and North County Fair.

“The rap fashion scene is becoming a trend,” said Johnson, an African-American entrepreneur. “It is popular with white kids too.”

Belts, hats and jewelry are not only adding zip to the fall look but, in some cases, are telling a story about a generation that has been reared on music videos, sitcoms and sports--make that MTV, “Beverly Hills, 90210” and Michael Jordan.

“Music is fashion, and it comes and goes as quickly as neon and wool socks,” said Jim Lindgren, manager of Vista Records. “It is all very fickle.”

While some hip-hop dressers continue to wear short skirts and spandex tops during hot weather, many students are moving into other directions.

“I don’t want any really tight clothes like Madonna stuff,” said Maria Cotter, 16, of Oceanside. “The way you look reflects how you are.” Cotter is set on the retro look. “I would love to have a Levi jacket from the 1960s,” she said.

Laura Ramos, 14, of Carlsbad, said she found “a weird ‘60s vest at the Goodwill Thrift store in Oceanside.”

Retro means different things to different people.

“I would never wear anything old,” said Wendy Walker, 14, of Escondido. Yet Walker and friend Maggie Anderson, 15, of Valley Center, can identify with the dated look.

“I just bought a pair of suede low-cut boots that I will wear with Esprit jeans and a plaid flannel shirt,” Anderson said.

Shoes and boots have become key ingredients in teen wardrobes.

Because many styles are expensive, the choice of footwear is undoubtedly the cause of some tension between parents and their offspring. (“Paying $125 for shoes that he will outgrow in three months is ridiculous,” said the mother of a 15 year-old son.)

Students who are into heavy metal, rap and hip-hop are buying Dr. Martens--black leather combat boots that can easily cost $80 a pair. Western boots can cost more, according to Mike Edwards, 16, of Leucadia.

Other popular choices are Chukka boots, at about $40, and suede vans and athletic shoes.

Hi-tops from Nike and Reebok are still selling, although some students say they are not buying the $100 styles. “I can’t do that to my parents anymore,” said Martin Mazyck, 15, of Carlsbad, referring to the cost for Nike Air Jordans.

Surfers continue to buy Birkenstock and Teva sandals, which have become a trademark of that genre. Birkenstock of Encinitas is finding that its basic Arizona sandal is still popular among the surfing crowd.

Meanwhile, stores such as Payless Shoesource are selling knockoffs in leather booties and oxfords for $13 to $18.

A number of trendsetters find that Keds are perfect for a mix-and-match look and definitely much cheaper. “I have one friend who has seven pairs to coordinate with her outfits,” Anderson said.

Just as shoes suggest an attitude or outlook, so do hats and caps.

Hats with Stussy, Quicksilver, Billabong, and No Fear define more of a surfing culture; Malcolm X and Public Enemy move into the street wear/Rap scene; White Sox, Lakers, and Celtics capture the sports crowd.

“My mom tries to wash my hat, but I won’t let her touch it,” said Brett Goodman, 17, of Oceanside, who wears a Stussy cap.

Girls are wearing baseball hats too, but they are also wearing “hats with big flowers--the scrunchie type,” Anderson said.

Other items considered a must by many this fall are belts, rings and earrings--especially silver belt buckles and bolo ties for a Western influence. “Big hoop earrings are my favorite,” said Tunesa Baldwin, 16, of Camp Pendleton. Romelia Martinez, 16, of Oceanside, said she is wearing several pinkie rings.

Rappers and heavy metal fans are buying medallions and beaded necklaces, and many are making their own creations, Ramos said.

Because ethnic fashions are so popular, Bryant Johnson is preparing to sell his own line of African fashions through A Taste of Culture.

“You can sell and educate at the same time,” said Johnson, who now sells Malcolm X hats, Bob Marley T-shirts, peace medallions and colorful Guatemalan bags for $12 to $20.

Baggy, unisex clothing by Cross Colours and other ethnic knockoffs are in wide demand.

“I find ideas about clothes on Black Entertainment TV,” Mazyck said. “There are not a lot of African-American styles in North County like in New York or Philadelphia.”

Edye Oliver, an African-American mother of four, said ethnic dressing in North County is different from other areas. “North County is much more conservative,” Oliver said. “My girls won’t go as extreme with their fashions as the kids further south.” But Oliver said that North County is probably more fashion integrated than southeast San Diego. “White kids will also wear the Malcolm X here, but probably not farther south,” she said.

When daughters Jasmine, 17, Nia, 13, and Kim, 9, return from visiting relatives in New York, they come home with the latest African-American fashions. “Their friends have usually seen this stuff on MTV and think it is cool,” Oliver said. Noting that her daughters are into the retro look with wide belts and sneakers, Oliver sees a nice balance. “I am glad they are not letting go of their American heritage either,” she said.

The surfing scene is still big on shorts and T-shirts. Julie King, buyer for Hansen’s in Encinitas, said bigger is better these days. “If they wear a 30-inch waist, they’re buying pants with 34 to 36-inch waists,” she said.

Although the classic surf look is being assimilated into more of a street wear look these days, T-shirts still reveal who is on top in the surf community--and right now Stussy gets high marks.

Western fashions are in vogue, due in part to the popularity of country singer Garth Brooks.

“Kids are listening to country music,” said Andrea Hulbert, of Mary’s Tack & Feed in Del Mar. “We are selling a lot of Wranglers and Rock Mountain jeans--Rockies are definitely more city-ish.”

Another big Western look is the bolo tie. “Movie stars are wearing bolo ties--especially a lot of people on talk shows,” said Tommy Montano, manager of Howard & Phil’s Western Wear of Carlsbad. He sells bolos from $10 to $60--the latter usually are sterling silver handcrafted.

Some stores are seeing a payoff in responding to customers’ needs to keep one eye on the bottom line while on the lookout for fashionable items.

Alison Tyra, manager of Nordstrom’s Brass Plum department for young women, said value-conscious imports include brightly colored leggings at $24 a pair and T-shirts for $15--all dyed to match in what is called “vegetable palette” colors.

In the store’s Brass Rail department for young males, Kris Kissner said customers are buying the Hang Ten brand again. “It is back in a big way,” Kissner said. Levi has come out with the new Silver Tab in several colors to capture the baggy market--Brass Rail baggies run approximately $36 to $66.

While jeans are a must-have item in most wardrobes, not everyone is ready to pay premium prices for them. “I like Guess, but they are really expensive, so I buy Gap jeans--they are probably $10 to $20 less,” said Kim Kawai, 14, of Vista.

Her attitude is a popular one these days. Teen-agers are paying closer attention to value by looking for bargains, by culling some items from thrift shops and even by sewing their own clothes.

Hand-me-downs are an option too, but timing is everything.

“My kids won’t wear castoff clothing unless it is a pair of Levis or something in style,” said Jane Meeker of Vista.

Some say their children are not confident enough to wear clothes from the Goodwill store, so they have to improvise. “I think they would prefer Nordstrom and Casual Corner,” said Ann Tidwell of Poway, who has five children under the age of 13. “We just don’t have the reserves, so I will often pull things together.”

Tidwell, a former fashion consultant, said she encourages her children to look for the basics and then tie their wardrobe together with extras.

And while huge numbers of students are probably not sewing their own clothes, many are finding it a worthwhile option.

Several stores in North County are selling simple patterns for shorts and vests that require little skill to make and only a small cash outlay.

“Many of these styles can be made in a couple of hours,” said Margaret Hodges, sewing instructor for House of Fabrics in Escondido. “I am noticing more young people making basic items.”

Fabric stores also are picking up new recruits who are looking for appliques, patches, lace trim and other personalized touches, Hodges said. Easy patterns and youth-oriented jam prints, batiks, and flannels have lured many students into sewing their own baggy shorts and vests.

Hodges tells students to buy fabric on sale and patterns that have several views. “You can whip up a pair of baggy shorts for about $10 to $12,” said Hodges, suggesting Simplicity Pattern No. 7558.

A number of students have found economy as well as unique items at second-hand stores.

The thrift store run by the Assn. for Retarded Citizens in San Marcos sees a dramatic increase in student business every day at 3 p.m. “We are so close to San Marcos High School that a lot of the students shop here all the time,” said ARC Shoppe manager Jeannie Clark.

Hot items are concert T-shirts, Levis, jeweled cardigan sweaters, and baggy pants and vests from the ‘50s.

“A lot of kids,” said Clark, “would rather pay $3.95 for a used vest than $40 for a new one.”