Worth Getting Up For . . .

Hot weather and big breakfasts rarely go together. But a few cool days have broken through the heat, and these are the days we wake up hungry and ready to light up the griddle.

All berries work in these cake-like muffins. Be sure to serve these muffins warm.

SEASON’S BERRY MUFFINS

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1/2 cup milk

3/4 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

Generous 1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups blueberries, raspberries or chopped firm strawberries

Cream butter and sugar in mixer bowl. Add eggs. Beat until fluffy. Add milk and vanilla. Combine well. Add flour, baking powder and salt. Mix well. Fold in berries.

Using 1/3 cup measure, scoop batter and transfer into 14 paper-lined muffin cups. Batter will come up to top of liners. (Batter can stand at room temperature if muffins must be baked in batches.)

Bake muffins in center rack of 350-degree oven until golden brown and wood pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 38 minutes. Serve warm. (Can be reheated in 300-degree oven or in microwave oven at MEDIUM (50%) power.) Makes 12 to 14 muffins.

Each serving contains about:

218 calories; 138 mg sodium; 57 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.29 gram fiber.

We seem to forget potato pancakes for breakfast , which is definitely our loss. They’re easy to make and delicious. You can dress them up with a little creme fraiche and caviar. But they’re delicious simply topped with a poached egg and minced chives or with apples sauteed in butter and maple syrup. They’re also good enough to serve plain at any meal. The food processor does a quick shredding job.

WARM RUSSET POTATO PANCAKES

3 large russet potatoes, about 2 pounds total, peeled, coarsely shredded

1/4 cup flour

1/4 cup milk

1 egg

1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons oil

Combine potatoes, flour, milk, egg, green onions, salt, nutmeg and pepper to taste in large bowl. (Potatoes will darken considerably if mixture is allowed to stand. Even so, mixture will lose its white color but that’s not apparent in cooked pancake.)

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil in non-stick griddle or 12-inch skillet until very hot over medium heat. Use 1/4-cup measure of potato mixture for each pancake. As liquid accumulates, stir mixture to moisten and drain off excess but do not squeeze mixture dry. Using fork, shape each pancake into 3-inch round. Lightly compress pancake with metal spatula. Cook until underside is brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. Turn pancake. Cook until underside is brown and potato is tender, about 4 to 5 minutes more.

Keep warm in 250-degree oven until remaining pancakes are cooked, adding equal quantities of butter and oil to griddle as needed.

Arrange pancakes in single layer on jellyroll pan. Bake at 300 degrees 10 minutes. Turn. Bake 10 minutes longer. Serve warm. Makes 12 (3-inch) diameter pancakes, 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

400 calories; 567 mg sodium; 78 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 48 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.1 grams fiber.

This dish is a uniquely Midwestern rendition of eggs Benedict, using beef and Spicy Choron Sauce (a tomato hollandaise). If you want to cut some of the calories, it’s an excellent open sandwich combination without the poached egg, perfect for lunch or supper. This method of making hollandaise sauce is practically foolproof because the egg yolks are cooked first and form a stable base for the butter. It’s easy too.

PEPPERED BEEF BENEDICT WITH SPICY CHORON SAUCE

6 English muffins, split

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons oil

Salt

Coarsely ground pepper

12 ounces trimmed beef tenderloin, cut into 6 equal slices, lightly pounded

6 hot poached eggs

Spicy Choron Sauce

Toast muffins and place open on warm serving plates. Heat butter and oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Season beef to taste on both sides. When pan is very hot, saute beef to desired doneness, about 1 minute total for medium-rare.

Place beef slice with juices in middle of each muffin. Place 1 egg on each beef slice. Top with Spicy Choron Sauce. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

534 calories; 656 mg sodium; 383 mg cholesterol; 37 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

Spicy Choron Sauce

1 teaspoon butter

1/4 cup of 1/4-inch diced tomato

2 egg yolks

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons water

1/2 cup warm clarified unsalted butter

2 teaspoons tomato paste

1/4 teaspoon salt

Cayenne pepper

Melt butter in small non-stick skillet and slightly cook tomato, about 1 minute. Lightly drain and set aside.

Place egg yolks, lemon juice and water in small heat-proof glass bowl. Whisk over gently simmering water in double boiler until yolks are thickened and cooked to ribbon, about 3 to 4 minutes. Do not overcook; yolk mixture should be smooth. Slowly add warm clarified butter, whisking constantly. Add cooked tomato, tomato paste and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Whisk well to combine. (Can stand 1/2 hour over warm, not hot, water. Whisk before using.)

Note : To make 1/2 cup clarified butter, use 1 cup unsalted butter. Slowly melt butter on stove top or in microwave oven on MEDIUM power (50%) until just melted. Pour into liquid measure. Let stand several minutes until milky residue has clearly settled to bottom of cup. Skim any foam off surface. Carefully pour clear (clarified) yellow butter into another cup, leaving settled milk solids behind. Discard milk solids or use to flavor vegetables.