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Definitive : Bras: More Than Just Supporting Roles

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Show it, don’t stow it. The bra is taking shape as an outerwear essential. Expose it for what it is: a push-up, bustier, demi-cup, full-cup, soft-cup, under-wire, strapless, backless, convertible halter, front-hook, back-hook or sports tank.

Choices weren’t so plentiful in ancient Greece and Rome, when a simple band of linen or itchy wool served as the sole support for the womanly figure.

Padding and supports of all sorts were used throughout history to suppress, contort, uplift and alter the female form, such as the “bust improvers” (wool and cotton pads inserted into a boned bodice) of the 19th Century and the laced and flounced “bosom amplifiers” and camisole-like “bust bodices” of the early 20th Century.

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The less constricting brassiere, a French term meaning “shoulder straps” or “baby’s vest,” captured the supporting role in women’s foundations in the ‘teens, replaced in the 1920s by bandeaux, which were elasticized, stitched and corded to flatten curves for the boyish flapper look.

The bra became more defining and uplifting in the ‘30s and ‘40s when falsies, molded pads of foam rubber, were added to enhance nature’s design. The true uplift, however, came in the ‘50s with the emergence of circular-stitched cups.

Some bras went up in smoke in the ‘60s, were colorized or converted to sports bras in the ‘70s, then exploited as outerwear by Madonna in the ‘80s.

Bravura: Lingerie-clad sophisticates make the padded push-up and bustier bra the most popular look for outerwear. Revealed under a sheer bodysuit, a cool cardigan, a faux fur, a dashing pin stripe, or a leather jacket, this is still an important look for fall.

Supporting cast: Black, white and ivory are fail-proof choices, especially in satin and lace. Red goes strong all year-round; animal prints add the wild touch to a tame silhouette, and jeweled and floral prints enhance the romance aspect. Look for silver and gold later this fall, and on the holiday horizon are embellishments made with sequins, gold trimmings, flocking, tucks and pleats.

Wrapping it up: Bras can be found in nylon, polyester, Lycra, spandex, cotton, cotton/Lycra blends, rayon blends, sand-washed silks, velvets and poly-satins.

Bra notes: A front-hook bra emphasizes a plunging neckline appropriate for the small to medium bust. Push-up pads and bra extenders are usually removable and sold separately for a woman’s changing needs. An under-wire bra lifts and takes some of the pressure off the shoulders.

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