Grease Is the Word : Hair: Young city slickers are topping off their urban renewal statements with ‘dos that are down and dirty.

Hair has always served as a rebellious symbol of the times. Coco Chanel lopped off her long locks to create a defiant bob that announced independence to roaring ‘20s suffragettes.

Four decades later, hippies wore their hair straight and long to defy an Establishment that was shipping shaved-headed men off to war.

Today, young urbanites frustrated over a decaying environment, a bursting population that is contributing to poverty and homelessness, and a questionable new world order have found a hairstyle that imitates their industrial, inner city, nitty-gritty life: grease.

When supermodel Christy Turlington sported a greasy ‘do at a recent Martin Margiela show, some observers speculated that excessive styling had damaged her hair. Wrong. Turlington was only going for the grunge.

Teens and the twentysomethings are finger-combing wax- or mineral-oil-based products through their hair to don ‘dos that are down and dirty.

“It’s very factory, very industrial,” says Joseph Serrano, hair artist at Carlton International in Costa Mesa. “Girls will lead with the look because of its masculine influence. And it works for dancing. Just comb through hair with your fingers, and it just looks glamorous and fun.”

“It’s definitely a street look,” says Tom Brophy, art director of Vidal Sassoon Beverly Hills.

He connects the grease appeal to the post-modern industrial club scene with its all-black clothes and the recent New Wave fashion movement that rebels against bourgeois couture and luxury and opts for a realistic agenda that lists the planet’s and civilization’s ills.

New Wave designers Martin Margiela, Jean Colona and Ann Demeulemeester are reconstructing flea market finds and mixing them with rough-edged silhouettes cut in cheap and politically-correct fabrics, such as fake fur and leather or nylon lingerie lace.

“It’s a very futuristic statement as we enter into a minimalist era. One that has to do with less dress, less hair,” says Serrano, referring to wardrobes built on basics and the end of big, foufy hairstyles that require a can of hair spray.

Serrano calls the style “low maintenance.” He says “the look to accomplish is dirty to an extent, more messy than polished.”

Vidal Sassoon’s Brophy underscores that to succeed, hair can’t actually be unwashed or dirty. “Hair has to be washed with a decent shampoo and well groomed,” he warns. “And a good haircut is a must to pull it off. Even when hair is dressed in a raggedy fashion, a good shape is needed.”

Serrano agrees: “You must still see a definition, a precision in cut and style.”

Long hair can carry the look, as can shorter cuts, which Serrano says is a good way to “dirty up this pretty classic” and make it new.

There are several products available that lend themselves to a grungy effect, such as Sebastian’s Molding Mud ($13.50) and Paul Mitchell’s Foaming Pomade ($8.95). Other modern pomades include Kenra Art Form ($6.70), Joico ($9) and KMS ($8.95). Linear has a very concentrated Glosse ($7) and a lighter Satin ($15), which combine with a slick gel to create a softer coating than pomades.

Experts say standbys such as pomades and hair products containing mineral, olive or turtle oils will deliver the look at a low cost. Check your neighborhood drugstore for Royal Crown pomade ($3), wax-based Dax ($2.49), Vaseline Hair Tonic ($4.29) and Brylcreem ($5.99).

As for the product’s effect on hair, nothing could be better.

“It’s definitely a break to hair in terms of not using a blow dryer, curling irons and hair sprays,” Serrano says. “And such products help out the growth and strength of hair. Wax base and mineral oil products create a coating and retain moisture which is actually good for the scalp.”

Brophy suggests leaving a protein pack on hair to achieve a similar look. “You’re looking for hair that is pliable and supple,” he says. Avoid gels, however, because they give a sticky, dry look that is wrong, he adds.

Both stylists recommend using a strong removal shampoo once a week to rid hair of deposits. There is no need to condition, they say, because the grungy hair products take care of that.