Making Eyes

By Researched by JANICE L. JONES / Los Angeles Times

Oct. 16, 1992 12 AM PT

In the demanding world of 9 to 5, there is little time for a complicated eye makeup routine. Most often it’s a few flicks of shadow and mascara on the way out the door--all the more reason to have even the most perfunctory efforts pay off.

Here’s what makeup pro Richard Stevens of Stevens & Cross Makeup Studio in Newport Beach has to say about applying eyeliner, preventing mascara clumps and smears, hiding dark circles and meeting the special needs of contact-lens wearers.

Problem: Applying Eyeliner Smoothly

Solution: Instead of using liquid liner or pencils, apply powdered eye shadow in a neutral shade with a firm, contoured brush. Try a brown or plum, but not one that’s too pink.

Lightly brush the shadow into place along the lower lashes, forming a line that is thicker on the outside corner of the eye and that tapers gradually toward the inside corner. Apply a line of shadow along upper lashes, but not across the entire lid. The line should taper off when it reaches the colored part of the eye. This cornering method is quicker and easier than attempting to outline the entire eye.

Problem: Mascara Woes and Makeup Buildup

Solution: These problems are usually caused by night creams and oily eye makeup removers that leave a film on lashes and lids. This film prevents mascara and shadow from adhering properly.

Before applying makeup, stroke lashes and eyelids with a swab or cotton ball soaked in an oil-free eye makeup remover. Splash eye area with water or rinse thoroughly while showering. Then apply light moisturizer around the eyes. Older women might need to use an eye cream, but they should avoid those that are too oily.

Problem: Curlers and Mascara

Solution: Stevens is a firm believer in the old-fashioned eyelash curler. “It separates the lashes and can save you time and effort, because it makes the lashes stand out and you won’t have to use as much mascara,” he says.

If the using the curler hurts, you’re doing it wrong. Just hold it in place for a few seconds and release.

When applying mascara, wipe off excess from wand and coat ends of lashes with the very tip of the brush.

Problem: Puffy Under-eye Area and Dark Circles

Solution: Apply cream-based concealer with a brush to even out skin tone. Pat it just above the crease and into the inside corner of the eye.

Look in the mirror with your chin up. Draw chin down to chest and look in the mirror. The puffy area underneath the eye will bulge out slightly, allowing you to pat a little concealer underneath, avoiding laugh lines where makeup collects.

Do not apply concealer on top of puffy areas or you will highlight them instead. To avoid the reverse-raccoon effect, dab some liquid foundation over concealer, blending gently with your finger or a sponge.

Problem: Shallow-set Eyes

Solution: To add dimension, tilt head back and raise brow slightly to bring area below lid crease into full view. Brush area below crease with powdered off-white eye-shadow base. Brush eye shadow, preferably a light color that will add emphasis, into the crease, stroking up and slightly over the bone.

Watch the corners. Do not apply shadow too close to the inside corner or too far below the outside corner.

Products and Equipment

A good brush is a must for applying concealer. Fingers are too thick for careful placement, and wand-type concealers are too watery.

Look for a concealer with a creamy consistency that will blend well.

Avoid foam-tipped eye shadow brushes. They tend to pull and to apply shadow too thickly.

Look for brushes that are firm but not coarse. Soft, flimsy brushes wear out quickly, making it more difficult to control shadow placement.

Selecting Brushes

Concealer YES

Eyeliner YES

Soft, flimsy, angular NO

Rounded, firm but not coarse YES

Foam-tipped NO