Climb Can Be Devilish, but Diablo’s View Is Saintly

From the Golden Gate Bridge to the Farallon Islands, from the High Sierra to the Central Valley--this is the sweeping panorama you can savor from atop Mt. Diablo in the San Francisco Bay Area. A park brochure claims that hikers can see more of the earth’s surface from the top of Mt. Diablo than from any other peak in the world, excepting Africa’s legendary 19,340-foot Mt. Kilimanjaro.

The far-reaching panorama from Mt. Diablo, which stands about 25 miles east of San Francisco, is all the more impressive considering the mountain’s relatively short 3,849-foot elevation. Two reasons for the grand views: (1) the mountain rises very abruptly from its surroundings, and (2) the land surrounding the mountain--the San Francisco Bay and Central Valley--is nearly flat.

Geologically speaking, the mountain is a bit odd in that the hiker climbs over successively older and older rocks on the way to the summit; this is exactly the opposite of the usual progression, which would find the youngest rocks on top. Much of Diablo’s sedimentary rock, which once formed an ancient sea bed, has been tilted, turned upside down and pushed up by a plug of hard, red Franciscan rock.

Even hikers without any interest in geology will be impressed by the bizarre, wind-sculpted rock formations called “Rock City,” bordering a picnic area. The mountain’s rocks also include the satanic-looking Devil’s Pulpit, located just below the summit.

Several colorful stories describe how Mt. Diablo got its name. The most popular account tells of an 1806 expedition of Spanish soldiers from the San Francisco Presidio, who marched into the area to do battle with the local Indians. In the midst of the fighting, an Indian shaman clad in striking plumage appeared on the mountain. The Spaniards were convinced that they had seen diablo --the devil--and quickly retreated.

In 1851, Mt. Diablo’s summit, long a landmark for California explorers, was established as the official base point for state land surveys. Even today, Mt. Diablo’s base line and meridian lines are used in legal descriptions of much California real estate.

Toll roads up the mountain were opened in the 1870s, and a fancy hotel was built. Late 19th-Century tourists did not consider their California holiday complete until they had climbed Mt. Diablo and taken in the majestic view. The hotel, unfortunately, was destroyed by a fire before the turn of the century.

In 1931, the upper slopes of Mt. Diablo were preserved as a state park. Since the late 1970s, the lower slopes have been added to the park, thanks in a large measure to the efforts of the Save Mt. Diablo conservation group.

Today, the park consists of some 18,000 acres of oak woodland, grassland and chaparral. Stands of knobcone and Coulter pine, as well as scattered digger pine, are found all over the mountain.

Mt. Diablo offers some fine trails, but, alas, the state park seems overly oriented to the automobile. Something of the majesty of conquering Diablo is lost for hikers when they’re joined at the top by dozens of visitors stepping from their cars. Still, there are plenty of places on Diablo’s flanks where cars can’t go. And the road to the summit, while intrusive, does allow hikers to easily customize the length of their day hike.

Want an easy hike? Start walking just below the summit. Want a vigorous aerobic workout? Start hiking at the base of the mountain and trek all the way to the top.

A relatively easy way to the top is via Juniper Trail, two miles round trip. More ambitious hikers will tackle the six-mile round-trip Summit Trail.

A great way to tour the park is to follow what park rangers call “The Grand Loop,” a seven-mile circuit that connects several trails and fire roads and offers views of--and from--Mt. Diablo in every direction.

Directions to trail head: From Interstate 680 in Danville, exit on Diablo Road and go east. After three miles, head north on Mt. Diablo Scenic Boulevard, which becomes South Gate Road, then Summit Road, and winds 8 1/2 miles to Laurel Nook Picnic Area. Park in the wide turnout (Diablo Valley Overlook), then join signed Juniper Trail, which departs from the picnic area.

The hike: From the picnic area, the path ascends northeast over brushy slopes. After crossing paved Summit Road, the path continues climbing to the lower summit parking lot. Plan to spend some time on the summit enjoying the view. A couple of handy locator maps available at Mt. Diablo State Park check-in stations help identify cities and natural features near and far.

When you’ve had your fill of the panorama, join the trail heading east from the south side of the parking lot. The path parallels the road for a short distance, then reaches a junction. Summit Trail heads southwest down the mountain, but you join the eastward-trending trail to North Peak.

Enjoy the awesome view of the Central Valley as you march over a rocky, juniper-dotted slope. The red-brown rock formation above looks more than a little diabolical; the most prominent rock formation is known as Devil’s Pulpit. Half a mile from the above-mentioned intersection, the trail--sometimes called Devil’s Elbow Trail, sometimes North Peak Trail--angles north and descends to a distinct saddle, Prospectors Gap. At the gap is a junction with a rugged 3/4-mile-long dirt road leading to North Peak.

Our path contours along the bald north slope of Diablo, passing junctions with Meridian Ridge Fire Road and Eagle Peak Trail, finally arriving at Deer Flat, a pleasant rest stop shaded by blue oak. Intersecting Deer Flat Trail, you’ll switchback up to Juniper Campground, then continue a short distance farther to Laurel Nook Picnic Area, where you began.

Coast Range, San Francisco Bay Area Where: Mt. Diablo State Park Distance: 7 miles round trip, with 500-foot elevation gain. Terrain: Brush-covered, pine-dotted slopes. Degree of difficulty: Moderate. Precautions: Very hot in summer, snow in winter. For more information: Contact Mt. Diablo State Park, P.O. Box 250, Diablo 94528, (510) 837-2525.