Vino Italiano : In Times’ 19th Tasting, Tuscan and Piedmontese Varietals Reflect California’s Growing Trend

California winemakers are a hardy lot, the majority with European family roots. Leo Trentadue of Sonoma County’s Trentadue Winery recalls how his father, Joseph, came from Italy in 1896, wearing a $7 suit with $30 in his pocket. He began his life in the New World as a San Francisco cabinet maker, but he wanted to make wine and found his way to the Alexander Valley. Today, the Trentadue Winery, along with a couple dozen other family-oriented wineries, is following California’s newest trend and planting Italianate grape varieties: Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Refosco, and Aleatico are now growing in quality regions such as Napa, Sonoma, Amador, Paso Robles, El Dorado, Santa Cruz, and even Santa Barbara County.

The planting of Italian grape varieties has taken off in the past decade. The Marchese Piero Antinori, scion of Italy’s oldest wine-making family, selected the Tuscan clone of Sangiovese in the mid-’80s for the volcanic soil of the Atlas Peak Vineyard in the Napa Valley, and the first vintages of 1989 and 1990 are splendid. In 1982, the Martin Brothers of Paso Robles began an experimental planting with Nebbiolo of Piedmont and followed it up with more acreage devoted to Sangiovese, Dolcetto and the more perfumy Aleatico. Although the Sangiovese vines at Shenandoan Valley winery in Amador County are young--the first commercial vintage of 1990 was a mere 105 cases--owner Jim Gullett is emphasizing the early drinkability of the wine, with its delicate fruitiness of cherry and berry tastes, plus hints of spiciness. This year, the Los Angeles Times’ 19th Annual Wine Tasting illuminates Italian grape varieties as more vintners discover these predominantly Tuscan and Piedmontese varieties.

Both production and quantity are still negligible, but as the following tasting reveals, the quality of the wines is heart-warming to true wine lovers.

In evaluating the wines, the Times panel used the 100-point system, with 100 being the best score. The scores were then converted to easily understood stars:

* * * * Outstanding, * * * Excellent, * * Good, * Fair

Panelists were myself; Dan Berger, Los Angeles Times; William Bond, M.D.; Eileen Crane, winemaker; Jill Davis, winemaker; Dominic Martin, winemaker; Tom Martin, winery director; Michaela Rodeno, vintner; Piero Selvaggio, restaurateur; Louis (Bob) Trinchero, owner/winemaker; Ann-Marie Villicana, law student/wine writer, and Steve Wallace, wine merchant. The tasting was produced by Gricel Fernandez-Sanabria and James Willett.

SANGIOVESE

Plantation of Sangiovese, sometimes referred to as Sangiovese Grosso, probably amounts to less than 100 bearing acres in California, but that number is significantly increasing among premium producers. Here are the wines in current release, in order of excellence, of varying style, yet of singular familial character.

SEGHESIO 1990 Chianti Station Old Vine Sangiovese. $28. This Alexander Valley vineyard wine scored very high marks for superb balance, rich cherry-berry complexity, spicy aromas. A graceful new adventure in taste. * * * +

ATLAS PEAK 5 1990 Sangiovese--Atlas Peak. $24. Tasters discovered a wine, now with its own appellation for its distinctive volcanic soil and rare elevation, of unique grace and charm. Translucent, with hints of cedar, enticing perfumes, vanilla taste. * * *

ATLAS PEAK 1989 Sangiovese--Napa Valley. $24. This wine of great depth and unique varietal character earned my highest score, though scoring slightly less in total from the panel. Taste qualities are tempered with oak scents mingled with rose petal and spice. * * *

FRANCISCAN OAKVILLE ESTATE 1990 Sangiovese (500ml). $12. A top-rated entry for its spice complexity suggesting clove and cumin. This wine, with a long and fascinating finish, is presented in a new midsize bottle. * * *

NOCETO 1990 Sangiovese--Shenandoah Valley. $7.50. Fruitiness mixed with some spice in bouquet. A long finish accentuates the berryness of a young, refreshing wine. Value! * * *

ROBERT PEPI 1989 Sangiovese Grosso--Napa Valley. $25. Described by one panelist as “very elegant,” this is a soft wine, with hints of cedar and cranberry. * * *

VILLA RAGASI 1989 Sangiovese--Napa Valley $21. Exotic character, mingling cigar-box and cedar scents with rose petal perfume. But there is a tannic bite, suggesting the wine will improve with cellar age. * *

TRENTADUE WINERY 1988 Sangiovese--Alexander Valley. $14. Deep, dark wine of intense taste attributes, suggesting the “amaro” character of truly Italian favor: It’s appealing bitterness is an acquired taste, but it makes a fine food companion. * *

SANGIOVESE-CABERNET AUVIGNON

Proprietary Blends

The Marchese Piero Antinori in Florentine established this breakaway from Chianti wine by daring to add percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon instead of the traditional white wine to create Tignanello, which remains a pace-setter. Antinori’s California wine is dubbed “Consenso,” meaning agreement , suggesting a delightful balance of these two varietals.

MARTIN BROTHERS 1990 Cabernet Etrusco--Paso Robles (85% Cabernet Sauvignon/15% Sangiovese). $18. Winemaker Dominic Martin describes the blending of Cabernet for depth, the Sangiovese “to lift and brighten.” Indeed, an elegant balance, exuberant with fruit plus lilac floral perfumes. Translucent, sophisticated. A delight. * * * +

ATLAS PEAK 1989 Consenso (80% Cabernet/20% Sangiovese). $24. A substantial wine that makes a rich statement. Supple though young, with approaching drinkability. * * *

NEBBIOLO

The most significant grape of Piedmont, named for the nebbia , or fogs, that cover the rolling hills and valleys where the great Barolos and Barbarescos are produced in Italy. California Nebbiolos vary as much, or more, in taste character--the same grape in different soils, with different winemakers.

MARTIN BROTHERS 1989 California Nebbiolo Vecchio. $18. The history of this vine reaches back to Julius Caesar’s time. This gentle wine, redolent of cedar, cherry and tobacco, has surprising delicacy. A good companion to chicken and pastas. * * *

SANTINO WINES 1989 Nebbiolo--Amador County. $9. Silky smooth, with grapefruit scents in bouquet, fine balance, good value. Unpretentious wine. * * *

ARCIERO WINERY 1989 Nebbiolo--Santa Barbara County. $8.99. There are hints of gentle tar among the berry tastes. Deep garnet hue. Its complexity reveals the diversity of the varietal. * *

BARBERA

This more robust varietal of Piedmont, favored in Asti and Alba, has been cultivated in California since pre-Prohibition times. Today, there are more than 10,000 acres of mature bearing vines. A reliable, generous-yielding varietal makes a deep, sometimes harsh, red wine. But in these Sierra Nevada foothill plantings, some distinction is achieved.

MONTEVINA 1990 Amador County Barbera--Reserve. $14. Under new ownership of the Napa Valley Trinchero family, Montevina is becoming a more treasured label. The Reserve, from older, lower-yielding vines, is an excellent example. Lush cherry tastes, hints of spice. * * *

SANTINO WINES 1990 Amador County Barbera. $9. Wonderful wine for pasta. Deep color, fine depths of bouquet and rich savor. Surprising subtlety. * * *

ALEATICO

This red grape of the Muscat family, of ancient cultivation on the isle of Elba, provides taste excursions of undeniable pleasure.

TRENTADUE WINERY 1986 Alexander Valley Aleatico. $12. This brick-edged, ruby wine will take the unaware to sudden surprise with its flowery bouquet and beguiling sweet taste. * * +

MARTIN BROTHERS 1990 California Aleatico (375 ml). $10. Definitely dessert wine, lifted with aged grape brandy, yet softly appealing with tropical fruit tastes. Wholly unique taste adventure. * *

DOLCETTO

The Dolcetto d’Alba makes a light, dust-dry, everyday red table wine in Piedmont with stellar recognition and general popularity, but its California plantation and cultivation is just beginning.

KENT RASMUSSEN WINERY 1990 Napa Valley Dolcetto. $20. An excellent wine, but it needs time before its black cherry charms emerge. * *

ZINFANDEL

With more planted acreage than Cabernet Sauvignon, California’s own grape grows in nearly every viticultural region of the state, with almost 28,000 acres. Of the 35 medal-winning entries for this tasting, space limits our listing to the top 12 in panel-preference order:

VILLA MT. EDEN1990 Napa Valley Zinfandel--Cellar Select. $9.50. Marvelous fruitiness, hinting of currants; touch of oak. Great value. * * * +

LOLONIS WINERY 1990 Mendocino Zinfandel--Private Reserve. $12. Subtle incense of oak blends into elegant fruitiness. Splendid Zin. * * * +

FETZER VINEYARDS 1988 North Coast Zinfandel--Barrel Select. 8.99. Charming wine, oak and fruit in fine balance for easy drinkability. * * *

HOP KILN 1990 Sonoma County Zinfandel. $12. Robust, peppery blackberry tastes. Excellent. * * *

CAYMUS VINEYARDS 1990 Napa Valley Zinfandel. $10. Big, rich wine, roasted coffee nose, some wood, some fruit, some tannin. * * *

FRANCISCAN OAKVILLE ESTATE 1990 Napa Valley Zinfandel. $10. A refined taste, intriguing bouquet. Graceful Zinfandel. * * *

GUNDLACH-BUNDSCHU WINERY 1990 Sonoma Valley Zinfandel. $12. Old vines from the Rhinefarm Vineyard in Sonoma Valley give this Zinfandel depth and complexity. * * *

CRESTON VINEYARDS 1990 Paso Robles Zinfandel. $8. One of my own top-rated wines for its lovely balance of wood and fruit. * * *

BENZIGER OF GLEN ELLEN 1990 Sonoma County Zinfandel. $10. Refined scents. Cherry and rhubarb tastes enliven this fine example. * * *

TRENTADUE WINERY 1990 Alexander Valley Zinfandel. $12. My top-scoring Zinfandel for its plummy-rich tastes and enticing bouquet. * * *

LAVA CAP 1989 El Dorado Zinfandel--Estate Bottled. $8.50. Mountain-grown grapes give this luscious wine its pleasing depth. * * *

FROG’S LEAP 1990 Napa Valley Zinfandel. $12. Generously fruity wine, balancing touch of oak, fine lingering aromas. * * *

MARTIN BROTHERS 1990 Paso Robles Zinfandel Primitivo. $9. Zesty Zinfandel from older vines evoke rose petals, cherries and spice. * * *

WHITE ZINFANDEL

When did you last taste White Zinfandel? Give it another chance--quietly, chilled, in fine crystal. It’s calming and delightful. It’s not charting up fantastic sales for nothing.

GLEN ELLEN 1991 California White Zinfandel--Proprietor’s Reserve. $4.99. Clean, perfumey, floral, soft, with balancing acidity. Refreshing. * *

FETZER VINEYARDS 1991 California White Zinfandel. $6.75. Spritzy pale pink wine of clean fruit flavors and savors. * *

MONTEVINA 1991 Amador County White Zinfandel. $6.50. A lovely, flowery, almost Riesling bouquet gives this wine a serious mien. * *

CRESTON VINEYARDS 1991 Paso Robles White Zinfandel. $4.99. Zinfandel character, fresh, fragrant, fine balance of sweetness and acidity. * *

MIRASSOU 1991 California White Zinfandel $5.50. Gentle wine, clean, fresh, not too sweet. * *

DESSERT ZINFANDEL

This category began accidentally in 1968 when Bob Travers didn’t harvest his Zinfandel in his first year as a winemaker at Mayacamas; the birth of his first son had priority. Somehow, when the sugar-rich grapes were late-harvested, the yeasts converted the wine slowly to a natural, unbelievable 17% alcohol before stopping at total dryness. The “miracle at Mayacamas,” as I dubbed it, created a legendary wine that many vainly attempted to copy. Wine experts correctly derided the category because of the poor imitations. The category veered off into Zinfandel Ports . . . frankly sweet, brandy fortified.

MARTIN BROTHERS 1990 Primitivo Appassito. $12. This Paso Robles Zinfandel Port was made by Dominic Martin from late-harvested, dessicated grapes, called appassito in Italian, of brambly intense flavors. This rich 18% alcohol wine of deep color and a nearly candy nose aroma has slight peppery tastes. A conversation piece to be sure. * * +