BOOKS : Candy Is Dandy : TRUFFLES, CANDIES, & CONFECTIONS, <i> By Carole Bloom</i> . <i> (The Crossing Press: $22.95; 202 pp.) </i>

“Truffles, Candies, & Confections” may sound redundant, but as Carole Bloom explains in her new book, each term has a specific meaning. Truffles, she says, have a soft chocolate center surrounded by an outer coating of chocolate, cocoa powder or chopped nuts. Candy means hard sweets such as brittles and toffee. Confections is a general category that includes anything other than truffles and hard candies. And few are as well qualified as Bloom to show you how to make them.

A fine arts graduate of UC Berkeley, Bloom cooked at several small Berkeley restaurants. When she decided to specialize in desserts, she went to Europe to study and work. She eventually became pastry chef at Hotel Le Beau Rivage Palace in Lausanne, Switzerland (and later, pastry chef at Mille Fleurs in Rancho Santa Fe). While she was in Europe, Bloom became fascinated by the superlative candies all around her. She was determined to make them herself.

Today Bloom teaches the art of candy making at her school in Carlsbad, Calif. She has taught candy making on television too, on the cable television show “Chocolate Habit.” But it’s not just Bloom’s background that makes this book so good. She has the rare ability to clearly explain technical procedures and write a recipe that’s easy to follow.

In the technical chapters, Bloom explains ingredients, equipment and techniques. She teaches you the difference between bittersweet and semisweet chocolate, explains the meaning of gianduja (an Italian chocolate enriched with hazelnut), tells you how white chocolate is made and indoctrinates you into the art of tempering chocolate.

Tempering is a heating and cooling procedure that yields smooth texture and attractive appearance. Once you’ve mastered it, you’re ready for truffles, which Bloom terms “the ultimate chocolate delight.” She provides 19 truffle recipes, plus enough variations to satiate even the most voracious “chocoholic.”

There are plenty of recipes that don’t involve tempering, including fudge, caramels, brittles, divinity and fruit candies. And there are candies that cooks with minimal skills can handle, such as apricot-date balls and marzipan-stuffed dates.

Homemade candies make wonderful holiday gifts. They are fresher than those you buy, says Bloom, and contain no unwanted additives. Bloom offers a seven-point guide to organizing a large-scale candy-making project.

Here are two chocolate candy recipes from Bloom’s book, neither requiring tempering. You will, however, need a candy thermometer.

TROPICAL CLUSTERS 10 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped 2/3 cup canned sweetened condensed milk 1/2 cup toasted unsalted macadamia nuts, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger 1/4 cup finely chopped dried pineapple 1/2 cup flaked or ribbon coconut

Melt chopped chocolate in top of double boiler over hot, not simmering, water, stirring frequently to ensure even melting. Remove double boiler from heat, remove top pan containing chocolate and wipe bottom dry. In 1-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, bring condensed milk to boil. Pour hot milk into melted chocolate. Blend together thoroughly.

In 2-quart mixing bowl, combine macadamia nuts, ginger, pineapple and coconut and blend evenly. Pour in chocolate and stir until mixture is completely coated.

Line baking sheet with parchment or wax paper. Spoon out clusters 1 inch in diameter onto sheet, leaving 1 inch space between them. Place baking sheet in freezer until clusters are firm, 15 to 20 minutes. Place clusters in paper candy cups. Serve at room temperature. Makes 40 clusters.

Note: Clusters will keep 2 weeks in refrigerator or 2 months in freezer. Wrap in several layers foil and store in tightly covered container.

Each cluster contains about: 77 calories; 18 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.06 gram fiber.

CHOCOLATE CARAMELS 2 tablespoons flavorless oil such as safflower oil 1 1/2 cups whipping cream 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped 2 cups sugar 1/2 cup honey 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Line 8-inch-square baking pan with foil that extends over sides. With paper towel coat bottom and sides of foil with 1 tablespoon oil. Set aside.

Place whipping cream in 3-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to boil over medium heat. Add chocolate and stir until melted and thoroughly blended, about 3 minutes. Add sugar and honey. Return mixture to boil and wash down sides of pan 2 times with pastry brush dipped in warm water to prevent sugar from crystallizing.

Cook until mixture registers 257 degrees on candy thermometer, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove pan from heat. Stir in butter, then pour mixture into prepared pan. Let caramel cool completely at room temperature, 2 to 3 hours.

With remaining 1 tablespoon oil, coat cutting board and blade of large chef’s knife. Remove candy from pan by lifting out foil. Invert caramel onto cutting board and peel off foil. Cut caramel into 8 (1-inch-wide) strips, then cut each strip into 8 pieces. Store candy in tightly covered container between sheets of wax paper or wrapped in individual wax paper squares. Caramels will keep 2 weeks at room temperature. Makes 64 caramels.

Each serving contains about: 80 calories; 2 mg sodium; 11 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.08 gram fiber.