The Salt of the Earth

Salt is the most common of what I call the flavor catalysts. It blends with other flavors, making them brighter.

We sense only four flavors--sweet, salty, bitter and sour; in our natural state, these help us seek out nutritious and calorically important foods.

We have a specialized taste sensation for detecting salt--it is sensed primarily along the front edge of the tongue. We become quickly accustomed to the taste, so that the more salt we use, the more we want. People who use very little of it are more sensitive to its taste.

The three main sources of salt are ordinary sea water, the rock residues from prehistoric seas and natural salt springs.

Most salt used for gastronomic purposes today is the result of evaporation of brines. Unprocessed sea salt is gray with coarse, irregular grains. It’s loaded with calcium and magnesium chlorides, which give it a slightly bitter taste that is much prized by gourmets.

It’s possible to find salts from specific areas--Armoricaine, near the mouth of the Loire River in France, and Malden, from Essex, England, are two of the tastiest. They’re unrefined and have no additives, but they do carry the added flavors of mineral impurities.

Refined salt is free from impurities. It has either a flaked consistency, like kosher or coarse salt, or is finely ground, like ordinary white table salt. Flaked salt tastes less salty than finely ground salt because the larger flakes are sensed differently on the tongue than the fine powder of ground salt.

Sugar and salt are frequent companions, as well. The sweetness of ice cream becomes even sweeter when contrasted with salted Spanish peanuts in a tin roof sundae or salted pecans in butter-pecan ice cream. On the other hand, when used in equal amounts they cancel each other almost entirely. When fish is cured, for example, sugar is added and the result is not too salty. Sweet relish helps to cancel the salty flavor of hot dogs. Chinese sauces usually contain some sugar to help balance the saltiness of soy sauce.

The amount of salt to use in a recipe is a matter of personal preference--and perhaps your doctor’s preference as well. I try to add only enough salt to brighten and develop the natural flavors of a dish. Anyone wanting more salt can add it at the table.

In the following recipes, salt is essential for balancing the flavors. For the gravlax allow five to six days preparation time.

LEMON AND GARLIC GRAVLAX 1/4 cup salt 1/4 cup sugar 2 (1 1/2- to 2-pounds each) salmon fillets, skin on 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice 1/4 cup finely minced garlic Mayonnaise 16 lemon wedges Thinly sliced toast

Combine salt and sugar in small bowl and mix well. Place salmon fillets flat and sprinkle with lemon juice. Sprinkle with garlic and evenly distribute sugar-salt mixture over salmon. Press flat sides of fillets together, flesh to flesh, as if closing book.

Place fish between 2 platters or baking sheets with edges, to collect liquid that will run off. Place 10-pound weight on top (large juice cans or few bricks). Refrigerate 5 to 6 days, draining off liquid as it accumulates in bottom of pan, turning fillets daily. When flesh seems firm and no longer looks raw, remove weight and separate 2 fillets.

To serve, slice thin diagonal strips from each fillet and arrange on chilled plates. Serve with mayonnaise, lemon wedges and toast. Makes 16 servings.

DUCK CONFIT 8 duck legs 3 tablespoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise 6 bay leaves 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 1/2 cup oil

Sprinkle duck legs with kosher salt and cover and refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days.

Rinse duck legs and pat dry. Place legs skin-side up in deep baking dish just large enough to hold legs tightly in 1 or 2 layers. Add peppercorns, garlic, bay leaves, thyme and oil. Cover dish tightly and roast at 300 degrees 2 1/2 hours. Remove duck legs from fat and let cool. (To reserve fat for another use, strain it and discard herbs, spices and garlic.)

Just before serving, place duck legs under broiler to crisp skin, 1 to 2 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

SHORTBREAD 1 pound unsalted butter 1 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup sweetened condensed milk 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 3 1/2 cups flour 1/2 cup cornstarch

Combine butter, sugar and salt in bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle and beat at medium speed until creamy. Add sweetened condensed milk and vanilla and beat until incorporated. Reduce speed to slow. Slowly add flour and then cornstarch and beat until dough forms.

Divide dough into 4 balls. Wrap each in plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator until firm, about 1 hour.

Lightly flour work surface and roll out each ball of dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Keep lifting dough, and if it sticks to surface, sprinkle with little more flour.

Using 2 1/2-inch round cookie cutter, cut out circles of dough (or use knife to cut dough into 2-inch squares). Place on non-stick or lightly buttered baking sheet and chill about 15 minutes. Bake cookies on center rack at 300 degrees 15 to 20 minutes. Cookies should color only slightly. Cool completely. Makes about 4 dozen cookies.