Flair for Squares

Ancient Rome produced many world wonders--from aqueducts to grand, columned structures. One that survives to the present is the sudarium . It saved the runny-nosed Romans the burden of heavy laundry bills that came with dirty toga sleeves, and comes down to us as the handkerchief.

The long march of civilization has brought us to the dress coat--and its many, many pockets. They serve as key depositories and cloth piggy banks for small change. In fact, today’s coat poses this challenge: what to do with the awkward breast pocket. Without the decoration provided by the pocket square, it would only serve as a black hole from which no lint escapes.

To fill the void and achieve a conservative look, a starched, white linen handkerchief is best. For added flair and color, a handkerchief coordinated with the tie is in order.

Regarding coordination, the tie and pocket square should never be of identical pattern. Rather, they should subtly mirror the colors of the coat, slacks, shirt and tie.

With the color chosen, the next step is deciding how the pocket square will be folded. The simple square fold and the more, ornate origami-like construction present choices that can add understated elegance or the dash of a silk bouquet.

Square fold 1. Fold pocket square to width of breast pocket. 2. Pull remaining segment over the previous fold. 3. Fold top segment so pocket square won’t sit too tall in the pocket. 4. Stuff in pocket so that square protrudes a half-inch above the pocket. Sharp points 1. Fold pocket square diagonally. Rear fold should be slightly to the left of the forward fold.. 2. Pull lower right corner to the left, bringing point level with the others. 3. Repeat the process with the pocket square’s left corner. 4. Stuff in pocket and adjust points. Loose points 1. Take the pocket square by its center, allowing the points to fall randomly. 2. Folding it, aim its points upward. 3. Fold and stuff in pocket, arranging the points casually. Loose-stuff 1. As before, take the pocket square by its center. 2. Folding it, aim its points downward. 3. Stuff in pocket, adjusting the round folds to liking. Sources: Dress for Excellence, Lois Fenton; Man at His Best, the editors of Esquire Magazine